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theksmith

03 Grand Cherokee 4.7L HO Engine Replacement

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cr4.7.jpg

 

figured i'd start a thread to document the engine replacement for others that may ever need to do the same.

 

i'm swapping out my entire 03 4.7 HO for a complete re-manufactured unit from Promar:

http://www.promarengine.com/productdetails.asp?ProdId=440&SP=--

 

for why, see this thread/post:

http://www.offroadpassport.com/forum/showpost.php?p=12548&postcount=28

 

 

total cost (i'll keep this updated as the swap happens):

Promar Remanufactured 4.7 HO: $3,300

shipping surcharge for a truck with liftgate (otherwise free shipping): $150

evacuate A/C system: $25

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first thing was deciding exactly what to remove - should i take apart entire nose so i have more room to work and can slide engine str8 out, or can i just remove the fan and have enough room then to slide engine a little forward and then tilt out.

 

decided at my ride height, even if i take wheels off and drop axle to ground, i still may not be able to get a typical engine hoist to lift engine high enough to clear the nose, that and i hate busting knuckles in tight quarters, so i'm just going to commit to taking entire nose off.

 

this means disconnecting A/C for sure, everything else in the nose (lights, grill, radiator, tranny & PS coolers) isn't a big deal and would have to be disconnected anyway if not removed.

 

so i called a few shops to get a price on evacuating my A/C instead of me just letting it out into the air. i figured places would do it for free if i paid for the re-charge which i'll need when done, or maybe charge me some nominal fee. ha, i was wrong. the Sun Devil auto near me was annoyed that i would even bother them about it if i wasn't paying them to do the whole engine swap and they told me "just let it out and then come to us for the recharge" - nice. Another one of those "brakes & everything else" kinda places wanted to charge me the standard $75 to evacuate it, and then charge me that again plus refrigerant to charge it when i was ready.

 

finally found "u-fix-it automitive" on bell road and they did the evacuation for $25 bucks, and will charge me another $25 plus the cost of new refrigerant when i'm ready to charge it again.

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next, since i'm sick and sticking near bed for right now, i figured i'd better get all the gaskets and other parts figured out that i'll need.

 

at first i thought i only needed a few gaskets, so i bought them individually. then later i realized how many there are even with a longblock and that i should have bought a kit and saved money - oh well, lesson learned for others! you could probably re-use alot of the gaskets actually since they are rubber or silicone and not old-school felt, and i've yet to find anything that is supposed to use RTV on this sucker.

 

i also happen to already have 95% of the engine electronics as spares, so i'm going to go ahead an commit to putting all new electronics in. i'll take all the old ones and make those the spares.

 

i also was just about to do a "longevity tuneup" kinda thing, so i already had several other accessories like PS pump and new 02 sensors and such, so during this replacement most of the engine bay will get replaced!

 

 

here's a list of everything that someone might consider replacing or might need as part of a complete high-mileage vehicle overhaul, i'm not doing every one of these, but most of them. i've provided the factory part numbers for many items:

 

 

Gaskets

-----------------------

Felpro Gaskets (Napa)

 

intake manifold (8 pieces)

exhaust manifold L & R

valve cover L & R

throttle body

oil pan gasket (includes windage tray)

oil pickup tube o-ring (comes with oil pan gasket)

timing cover (could have OLD or NEW cover, OLD uses metal/rubber on-peice, NEW uses several gaskets)

crankshaft font main seal (comes with timing cover gasket set)

 

Mopar Gaskets (Dealer)

 

water pump gasket

thermostat gasket (comes with thermostat)

dipstick o-ring 53021144AA

oil filler gasket 53020889AB

 

 

Misc Engine

-----------------------

vent valve 53032800AA

breather 53030850AB

breather o-ring 53031711AA

 

 

Sensors & Switches

-----------------------

(4) 02 sensors (56041345AE, 56028586AA, 56029333AA, 56041941AA)

knock sensor pair (HO only) 56041677AB

(8) platinum plugs for HO only SPRC7PYCB4

camshaft position 56041584AC

crankshaft position 56028666AA

throttle position (TPS) 5017479AA

IAC (idle air control) 53030840

IAC o-ring 83503642

air temp 56028364AA

MAP 56041018AB

oil pressure 4868672AA

coolant temperature 56027873

 

 

Cooling

-----------------------

water pump 53021187AA

thermostat 52079476AB

(2) heater hoses 55115895AB, 55115896AB

(2) radiator hoses (already recently replaced)

radiator cap (18PSI)

power steering pump & resevoir & o-rings is available as one reman unit from NAPA

power steering pulley comes separate still

fan hoses & o-ring 5019708AB, 52089505AD, 5019705AA, 5205254

hydraulic fan 52079860AA

hydraulic fan control solenoid 5102210AA

 

 

Extra

-----------------------

y-pipe & mini cats 2003 = 52080358AA, 2004 = 52080378AC

auto tensioner 53030958

belt 53032037AI

harmonic balancer/damper 53021410AA

engine mounts (already replaced not long ago)

fuel filter/regulator

 

 

MISC

-----------------------

(2) gallons MOPAR HOAT Antifreeze or 4 Gallons of Zerex G-05 premix

(2) gallons 10w30 (HO only, 5w-30 for regular 4.7)

(2-3) quarts Power Steering fluid

oil filter 5281090

air filter 5015610AA (HO part# only)

A/C refrigerant & oil

may need exhaust header bolts/studs if siezed

thread anti-seize

hose-clamps

 

 

Tools

-----------------------

engine hoist

engine stand (not required, but usefull)

jack & wood block to support transmission

fuel line disconnector

damper/balancer puller

seal puller (for front main seal in timing cover)

power steering pulley installer

engine oil priming tool & drill

A/C vacuum and refill equipment or just take somewhere when done (don't run A/C till re-filled!)

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Hey just caught up with the news K, crazy! Bumer on the cost of repairs but glad to see your getting it all worked out. Wish I lived closer to come check itout/help. Good luck!

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Based upon your crtieria for longevity and reliability, I think you made the right decision here. It seems from their website that Promar should be a reputable vendor. Hope the R&R goes well. We'll have to meet up on the trails in the future!

 

gary

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I have, fuel line disconnector, balancer puller, power steering puller. George:cool::D

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saw that the other day, it would be a good start for someone with it's atlas and the 60 - but it would need a lot of work for me to make it "mine" ;)

 

if money was no object, i would start with a fresh WJ with the lowest miles i could find, or maybe a JK 4 door Rubicon with a AEV Hemi swap, or maybe a G-Wagon! actually, yeah, i'd get a G-Wagon for expeditions an buy a TJ and stretch it and make it just for rock crawling. no wait, i want a Sportsmobile with pop-top for mild expeditions, and then a barely street legal TJ/buggy to tow behind it for the rough stuff.

 

:P

 

now back to reality...

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lol, if money was no object my TJ wouldn't be getting sold. Instead it would be getting 60s, an atlas, a front and rear stretch, hydro steering and 40s. Then I would build a one of a kind 4 dr JK for expedition wheeling and tow them both on my Kenworth with custom 53 ft trailer. Did I mention the trailer would have living quarters and the tools to fix anything we broke, lol.

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just talked to Promar, my engine did get built this week and is sitting on the loading dock waiting for pickup, yay!

 

i was little concerned since they didn't have one assembled already when i first called and had to build it, whether they would really get it done in 3-4 days, but they did it seems.

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