TheKSmith's 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Limited 4.7 H.O. - The Do-It-All Rig

[theksmith 3,832]

alright, here's the factory evap stuff, you can see how after trimming fenders, this junk is preventing full use of all that newly available space to tuck those 35's:

 

 

As Greg said, it looks like the simplest thing would be to just move it all backwards a couple inches, maybe have to drill a couple new holes, bend some metal, no big deal.... but that would be too simple i wanted to really clean all this up to make sure there will be no obstructions for a future custom bumper as well as clearance the new tires.

 

so the metal bracket comes apart into 2 pieces, and the evap cansiter, the LDP, and the LDP filter are all bolted 2 these pieces. first step for me was to take the canister off and relocate that, it's takikng up the most space. i found a good spot for it above the axle on the passenger side... if you still have factory exhaust routing though this probably wouldn't work.

 

 

now i put those 2 giant zip ties on there at first as a temporary solution because it was getting late. intention was to make a metal bracket to hold it up there... but actually i now think i'll just stick with the zip ties. however, these are interior grade ties, so i will get some exterior grade ones from home depot and replace these. i think they will hold it up there just fine.

 

I had to buy a few feet of 5/8" hoses to move to here. i also had to buy a section of smaller hose because mine was rotten, can't remember the size of it.

 

then i cut off a portion of the top of the metal bracket, turned it 90* and relocated it back and up into the rear corner. kept the LDP mounted to it, and drilled a new hole to mount the LDP filter. had to buy one piece of 5/8" elbow to turn the filter 90*.

 

here's the final result, everything tucked pretty nice, leaves room for the sides of a potential bumper to tie down into the receiver hitch sides for strength.

 

 

 

i also ran a new hose for the vent all the way up into the front engine compartment. I just ran the rear axle breather into a T for this... not sure if that's a good idea, if anyone knows for a fact that could cause some problem let me know. the front axle breather tube didn't go very far up into the engine compartment either so i extended that up higher as well.

[ob1jeeper 484]

Kris, You probably do not want to be mixing the two vent hoses together that close to the fuel tank and vents. OK to run them both into the air cleaner cavity, or otherwise locate them reasonably close together in the eng bay, but I would not run a lone vent hose from the back forward to for both systems...

 

Reason(s): Possibility of a fuel vent issue which would cause liquid fuel to condense and gather in the vent line. (not all that uncommon BTW) ...

This could result in liquid fuel getting into the axle and diluting the fluid, but more importantly since fuel vapors are heavier than air, they can and likely will settle into the axle, with the potential to ignite under certain axle temp conditions...

 

Otherwise your project appears to be coming along, and doing for you what you want it to...

[theksmith 3,832]

Kris, You probably do not want to be mixing the two vent hoses together that close to the fuel tank and vents. OK to run them both into the air cleaner cavity, or otherwise locate them reasonably close together in the eng bay, but I would not run a lone vent hose from the back forward to for both systems...

 

Reason(s): Possibility of a fuel vent issue which would cause liquid fuel to condense and gather in the vent line. (not all that uncommon BTW) ...

This could result in liquid fuel getting into the axle and diluting the fluid, but more importantly since fuel vapors are heavier than air, they can and likely will settle into the axle, with the potential to ignite under certain axle temp conditions...

 

Otherwise your project appears to be coming along, and doing for you what you want it to...

 

Thanks OB, just to be safe i'll follow your advice, but please also educate me a little more - the vent/breather is post evap cansister, due to the design of the "On-Board Refueling Vapor Recovery System" so the air that's coming out of the breather is being filtered by active carbon to supposedly absorb the fuel vapor and the exiting air doesn't even have a gas smell in the slightest. so wouldn't it be safe? or are you just saying in case the the canister fails in some way?

 

EDIT: i just read the FSM more, there's a valve that controls this tank venting process and so if it failed or if the evap canister failed it some way, then i see how it would be venting fuel vapor instead of "clean" air... is that correct?

[asphalt assault 0]

nice clean stuff. I like it. not sure why there is not room for the canistor on the drivers side but I am not under the jeep right now. I want to do this asap. thanks.

 

as far as the venting (and I may need to study the system to understand what your thinking) - the canister is charcoal. it soaks up fuel vapor and the vapor is recycled eventually getting back into the intake. fuel efficiency and environmentally friendly. cant tell if this is accounted for in your alteration in the design.

 

EDIT - I have an idea for the rear axle vent but will have to see if it is possible first than I will post picks for you.

 

edit 2 - did you did the CEL turn off after all was done?

[ob1jeeper 484]

Thanks OB, just to be safe i'll follow your advice, but please also educate me a little more - the vent/breather is post evap cansister, due to the design of the "On-Board Refueling Vapor Recovery System" so the air that's coming out of the breather is being filtered by active carbon to supposedly absorb the fuel vapor and the exiting air doesn't even have a gas smell in the slightest. so wouldn't it be safe? or are you just saying in case the the canister fails in some way?

 

EDIT: i just read the FSM more, there's a valve that controls this tank venting process and so if it failed or if the evap canister failed it some way, then i see how it would be venting fuel vapor instead of "clean" air... is that correct?

Kris,

Under certian conditions ( I have seen it occur most often offroading when temps are above 80-90 deg-F, and there has been a fresh load of cool fuel from underground tanks added to the tank...), Anyway, the amount of fuel vapors generated can be sufficient to over power and flood the charcoal canister, such that raw fuel begins bypassing the canister. I have seen cases, where raw fuel is pouring onto the ground in a steady stream...

 

Anyway... Since one of your main goals is to improve it's off-road capabilities, I would suggest that you not use the fuel venting system for anything other than fuel venting, and to also keep it and the actual vent location away from heat and other potential sources of ignition...

[theksmith 3,832]

EDIT - I have an idea for the rear axle vent but will have to see if it is possible first than I will post picks for you.

 

edit 2 - did you did the CEL turn off after all was done?

 

yeah, let me know

 

didn't take the laptop out yet to turn it off, was just going to drive a few days and see if it clears itself and if not go check it for other potential new codes in case i broke something!

[asphalt assault 0]

yeah, let me know

 

didn't take the laptop out yet to turn it off, was just going to drive a few days and see if it clears itself and if not go check it for other potential new codes in case i broke something!

 

I dont think PCM allows you to reset the emmissions code. at least my code reader cant reset that one. it resets itself if it passes its own selfcheck. if you can reset it let me know I would find that interesting.

[theksmith 3,832]

I dont think PCM allows you to reset the emmissions code. at least my code reader cant reset that one. it resets itself if it passes its own selfcheck. if you can reset it let me know I would find that interesting.

 

thought i could, so i went and double checked and yes, i was able to clear the large leak current code and the small leak pending code without problem.

[asphalt assault 0]

So I have reviewed your entire thread (again, for the 4th time likely, I always pick something up). I notice you had rear swaybar on with extended links and have progressed to none. why have you done so? spring rate better with the new 6.5 springs and dont notice it gone? what are your thoughts on this?

 

I dont have mine in right now. thought I would put it back in cause I dont know how that would affect myself for vehicle safety inspection (we have had many over the summer by police doing crackdowns on customized vehicles) but I would think having one limits your rear articulation. some builders recommend having it as well for better on trail handling. they say it does not hinder the rear articulation as it is not strong enough bar to have that kind of impact. I have 10" travel up down on either side now and I dont have the rear swaybar in. I think if I lengthen the links I can put it back in as limited travel should only happen at about 12's of travel either way (bar ends length is about 7" x 2 = 14").

 

the front JKS sway bar links - are they noisy? do you like them? you had them for awhile now, are they durable? thanks

 

if I had to do this without insider info i would be going with JKS front disconnects and putting the swaybar back in. if it did limit travel I would consider taking out the rear links on trail days and find some way of positioning bar straight up with out hindering anything if possible.

[theksmith 3,832]

So I have reviewed your entire thread (again, for the 4th time likely, I always pick something up). I notice you had rear swaybar on with extended links and have progressed to none. why have you done so? spring rate better with the new 6.5 springs and dont notice it gone? what are your thoughts on this?

 

I dont have mine in right now. thought I would put it back in cause I dont know how that would affect myself for vehicle safety inspection (we have had many over the summer by police doing crackdowns on customized vehicles) but I would think having one limits your rear articulation. some builders recommend having it as well for better on trail handling. they say it does not hinder the rear articulation as it is not strong enough bar to have that kind of impact. I have 10" travel up down on either side now and I dont have the rear swaybar in. I think if I lengthen the links I can put it back in as limited travel should only happen at about 12's of travel either way (bar ends length is about 7" x 2 = 14").

 

the front JKS sway bar links - are they noisy? do you like them? you had them for awhile now, are they durable? thanks

 

if I had to do this without insider info i would be going with JKS front disconnects and putting the swaybar back in. if it did limit travel I would consider taking out the rear links on trail days and find some way of positioning bar straight up with out hindering anything if possible.

 

JKS disconnects are awesome, i see so many people with other brands struggling to get them re-attached at the end of the trail. They make no noise.

 

I went to the Addco rear swaybar soon after the first 4.5"/33" lift was put on because it felt so unstable at first after the lift. My plan was to fab up some sort of disconnect system using some JKS disconnects and some little rubber straps to hold the bar pointing up when disconnected. Eventually, the stiffer sway bar trying to prevent flex while at the same time going offroad and forcing flex caused the sway bar mounts to rip loose from the axle (the bushing "straps").... while it was off, I just got used to driving without it and never put it back on.

 

If you do mild wheeling, the stock bar is a good compromise, helps some on-road handling and probably doesn't limit off-road articulation much... but if you do extreme stuff then it's definitely limiting you and will eventually snap or break the mounts. ScottL's XJ just snapped his rear one in two about a month ago while wheeling.

 

Now that I'm at 6" and put on the 35's (which have even more sidewall to flex), I'm having to get used to the bad handling on-road. This has made me seriously consider getting back to work on some sort of rear disconnect system!

 

wishy-washy enough for you?