asphalt assault 0 Posted September 17, 2010 I am just experiencing similar things and the rear disconnect idea sounds good...LOL thanks for sharing your thoughts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,832 Posted September 19, 2010 GPS antenna/receiver for the computer installed, hatch roof seemed easiest place to get to: just clears everything when hatch it is open: here is the wire routing, used grommets and some GOOP to seal it all up, also ran wires for an eventual back-up camera: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRUNT 87 Posted September 20, 2010 ...used grommets and some GOOP to seal it all up... George would be proud! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
asphalt assault 0 Posted September 20, 2010 show the compurter and other electronics you have going on there! by the way. first time using the midland CB on the weekend. I have to crank the volume but it is adequate. I love it to be honest. thanks for the recommendation Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,832 Posted September 20, 2010 George would be proud! actually it was George that gave me some caulk first and it didn't stick to the grommets, so i ended up GOOPing it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,832 Posted September 20, 2010 show the compurter and other electronics you have going on there! by the way. first time using the midland CB on the weekend. I have to crank the volume but it is adequate. I love it to be honest. thanks for the recommendation i'm 95% done with the computer stuff, i'll put up full details very soon! glad you like the Midland! all in all a great little unit without having to find space for a "real" CB". the volume is the only thing that isn't perfect with it... hence why i was previously recommending the Cobra with the external speaker output... but after so many people have had issues with the Cobra... meh! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,832 Posted September 20, 2010 dropped my baby off at the shop for the axle swap today, hope all goes smoothly, i think i have everything 95% planned out for them to just follow instructions, but they will have to do some minor inventive fab... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,832 Posted September 20, 2010 EDIT: this is on hold till i actually do my axle swap! FOR SALE - WJ Rear Dana 44A (44HD), 4.56 Gears, Aussie Locker, PowerSlot rotors, 2 spare axle shafts (the spares are slightly bent, but work as trail spares) - WJ Front Dana 30, 4.56 Gears, ARB Locker, PowerSlot rotors, JKS Tierod, JKS Draglink, JKS Track-bar, 2 complete spare axle shafts with unit-bearings (no issues with spare shafts, just had higher miles so I replaced them proactively and kept them for spares) This is a great setup if you are going with 33's or smaller or do milder wheeling but you want lockers. You can bolt it in yourself in your driveway. Keep in mind also, that if you have the limited slip axles currently, you would have to buy new carriers and new shafts in order to put lockers in... with this package you can take care of everything at once. The rotors are slightly warped, you don't notice it at all driving around town, but when you really get on the brakes like coming off a freeway, you feel the pulsing. The pads are only a few months old. The front ball-joints where replaced with Moog just a few months ago. The front control arm bushings, the shafts (cv joints), the TRE's, and the unit-bearings all have less than 10k miles. The front gears and locker have less than 15k miles on them. The rear gears I originally got with these axles made a little noise, so new gears where put in less than 5k miles ago and are quiet. The rear shafts and seals were replaced as well less thank 5k miles ago. Aussie lockers are noisy, they click noticeably on tight turns in parking lots, it's normal but be prepared for this. If you're local to AZ, I'm sure we can work out a pickup/dropoff. If you're not in AZ, then you'll need to get shipping/crating figured out, best I can do is drop them off at a trucking company or whatever here in Phoenix - I have no way to package them for you (I have no truck, have to carry them in Jeep). 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,832 Posted September 22, 2010 Well ballz. Axle swap fail. Shop called with a "come down here and look at this" message today. Fortunately nothing was taken out of mine yet, so I can still get it back and drive it while we re-figure some things. Going to re plan and then try again in a month. The rear IRO stuff is all good... with the exception of them welding some nuts out of alignment with their holes, but that's minor. With my particular angle, the truss ends up in the way of the tube vent hole, but again, minor. Hopefully all the brake and e-brake stuff goes smoothly when that time comes. Front however is a mess. The IRO bracket just isn't going to be ideal for my Clayton suspension, I'm sure it's fine for a naked JK 44 and IRO Y-Link suspension, but there are several issues we've run into that make it seem like a wasted purchase: - i thought there would just be some minor trimming of the truss "ears" to make room for the poly-performance C-Gussets on these JK axles... but the gussets actually come in a lot and by the time you trim off all the stuff on the truss, you've gotten into the truss pretty darn far and will be killing half the track-bar mount too - i thought the IRO truss would work with the factory driver-side UCA mount (the one that's cast into the pumpkin) even though it's designed to use something else there for the IRO 3-link. but it turns out we would have to cut off the JK stock UCA mount completely because the truss runs right thru that. this doesn't seem like a good idea. fabbing something new in place of it would be time/money/materials, but mainly because the factory one is nice and strong and should work just fine with the clayton suspension as-is. - i knew the passenger-side UCA mount would require fab since IRO doesn't even use one. However again, the truss runs right through the middle of where it goes and so we'd have to cut the truss up completely and re-do some things and if this was the only problem, it would be worth it, but since there are several issues... so, in the front, looks like i could: - hack up the IRO stuff and use what i can and come up with something new for trackbar (make brackets or buy poly performance or whatever) or - wait till Clayton gets everything dialed in and buy his front kit which will probably be an easy install then since it's designed for my suspension, however his front kit sounds like it's going to be major coin from talking to them or - hack off all my existing brackets from the WJ 30 and re-use them on the JK axles, but then i can't sell my axles as a nice set for someone to swap in, and they aren't nice new laser cut 1/4" steel brackets like Claytons and IRO's that i was all happy about or - find a junk-yard front WJ 30 and hack off it's parts to use so i can still sell all my axles as a set or - have a fabber custom make everything as is needed on the spot during the install all of these options require more time and money than i thought was going to be needed, hence me pushing out the install for another month while i figure out what to do, get parts, and save up more. meh. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
asphalt assault 0 Posted September 22, 2010 can you do the rear without doing the front or is there a gear ratio issue. may as well if you can cause you have extra cash to deal with any problems that may arise from that. then you can get the electric locker working in the rear, fine tune the speedo reading, rear abs, etc. if different gears than I understand why not. as for the front I need to look at IRO abit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
