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theksmith

TheKSmith's 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Limited 4.7 H.O. - The Do-It-All Rig

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I love this thread..... just had to say it. :)

 

sweet! ;)

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so i was awake early before it started heating up to get some more work done.

 

Simple Green scrub the floor mats:

 

P1110914.JPG

 

 

then i'm vacuuming away and i look up and there's a helper!

 

P1110910.JPG

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Our cats have something in common.

 

picture.php?albumid=13&pictureid=106

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unlike older jeeps, you can't just swap a plastic gear to correct your speedo (after tire/gear changes) on a WJ, JK's and rubicon TJ's. i'd been just living with my speedo, odometer, and MPG all being off for a long time because i didn't want to spend the $170 to $250 or more for a truespeed calibrator or a superchips programmer.

 

recently a guy on jeepforum by the name of gatorayde posted up that he used this speedo corrector intended for a motorcycle, and it was the cheapest one i'd seen ($70): https://www.motomummy.com/store/product.php?productid=18212

 

after some checking, the only thing close i could find was $5 more from Dakota Digital. this one has also been confirmed to work, but is bulkier, so i went ahead and ordered the SpeedoDRD one.

 

so huge thanks to gatorayde for finding the most affordable way to do this.

 

 

first find the main ABS wiring harness & connector:

 

P1110919.JPG

 

 

i actually had to remove the connector to have enough room to work because i have lots of stuff in my engine compartment. you might be able to get to the wires without doing this. if you do want to remove the connector, you pull directly up on the top little handle of the connector (see the first pic, it's half-way up).. this causes the connector to start to pull away from the ABS unit as you pull up.

 

P1110922.JPG

 

 

i removed about 3 - 4 inches of the black tape from the main harness (mine is an 03, older ones have a corrugated sheath around the harness).

 

P1110923.JPG

 

 

then i soldered the wires from the SpeedoDRD in.

 

- strip some insulation off the harness black with orange stripe wire, don't cut it. solder the DRD's black wire here.

- strip some insulation off the harness blue with pink stripe wire, don't cut it. solder the DRD's red wire here.

- cut the harness signal wire in 2 on the harness. connect the white wire from the DRD to the ABS connector piece of this signal wire. and connect the blue wire from the DRD to the other side of the signal wire.

signal wire = white with orange stripe on older WJ's

signal wire = green with yellow on newer WJ's

 

check your FSM for your year/vehicle to confirm which color your VSS wire is.

 

one thought, the SpeedoDRD can generate a test signal, so you might want to run that before you solder after you have the correct wires twisted together to make sure you did it right.

 

P1110932.JPG

 

 

here's everything taped back up:

 

P1110935.JPG

 

 

and zip tied up high and out of the way:

 

P1110937.JPG

 

 

there are calculators all over the net that will tell you based on tire size change what percentage your speedo is off, and there are probably some that take into account gear change as well. on my vehicle, i've change tires, gears, and even the tone rings are different in my JK axles - so really the only way i could find out my correction value was to use GPS.

 

on a nice long flat freeway, i found that at 65 on the GPS, my speedo was right at 60. i took a couple other readings too, here's what i found:

 

59.7 - 55 = 4.7 ----- 4.7 / 55 = 8.5%

65 - 60 = 5 ---------- 5 / 60 = 8.3%

70.9 - 65 = 5.9 ----- 5.9 / 65 = 9.1%

 

so i averaged those percentage differences and came up with my speedo is 8.6% too slow. the speedoDRD is actually simple to program and only took a couple seconds to enter in the 8.6% value.

 

went for a test drive and it's d@mn near perfect with the GPS. i think i'm still reading about 0.3 MPH slow at 65... not enough to even bother re-adjusting the DRD up a decimal point (that level of resolution is hard to even hold the speed perfectly steady to know for sure).

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This is nice and very cool. I will be getting the flashpaq though mainly due to me not having a v-8 and need to squeeze out more power. who can blame me. for those who are not familiar then here is more info. all the other features are just a bonus.

 

_____________________________________________________________________

Flashpaq for Jeep (part no. 3875).

 

 

Superchips worked with Jeep enthusiasts to create unique off-road features along with a full selection of Superchips street performance features. New off-road features include a low-throttle response crawling tune; 4-HI locking axle control; transfer case gear change correction; idle control for accessories; and TPMS threshold adjustment. Standard on-road Superchips features include tire size adjustment, performance tune, sensor display and data logging, adjustable shift points and firmness, redline and speed controls, and code reading and clearing.

 

The Flashpaq will cover the models ranging from Wrangler to Commander, from 1998 to 2009 (depending on model), for the V6, I6, and V8 engines (depending on model). The company claims gains of up to 24 hp and 28 lb-ft of torque.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

I dont think they have a flashpaq for the 4.7L

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Yeah they do.. i own the superchips one.. 2004, 4.7L HO engine..

 

G-

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Kdude...any luck eliminating the shakes? Sorry I don't have any ideas....

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Kdude...any luck eliminating the shakes? Sorry I don't have any ideas....

 

 

Valium?

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Kdude...any luck eliminating the shakes? Sorry I don't have any ideas....

 

well i guess we're chiseling away at it rather than there being a single big issue....

 

i took it back to TAD Driveline and their companion general mechanicin' business to check out the whole vehicle.

 

they weren't really able to pinpoint any major problems related to the front vibes. they didn't seem to think that there's anything wrong with the diffs or t-case. they did find that one of the rear axle shafts is bent. i have to verify this for myself still and then contact Joe and see if Superior is going to warranty that - they have a lifetime warranty but i don't know if that's only against breakage or what exclusions they have.

 

anyway, the rear axle shaft is probably what's causing the very minor vibes that were still left when only the rear driveshaft was in.

 

as far as the major front vibes, TAD re-did the front driveshaft yet again and this time apparently did something right as it's 10 times better. its actually kinda driveable with the front shaft in at 65 and up now, but still vibrates way more than is going to work long-term. i mean at least it's driveable, but i'll quickly wear out u-joints if it's not improved further still.

 

next week george and i are getting together and we'll play pinion-angle-roulette to see if we can chip away some more at the issue. i've got a few other things to do to get ready for rubicon too that he's going to help me with.

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