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theksmith

TheKSmith's 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Limited 4.7 H.O. - The Do-It-All Rig

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Beefy. Good luck gettin' it all back together.

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Glad you got it back, how in the world did you get that thing home? Looks like nice work, can't wait to hear how it all goes back together.

 

in the back of mini-me, when i got home i pulled one end out and sat it down with the other end resting on the bumper still and then grabbed that end and spun it around to lay it down!

 

 

today i made sure the locker sensor was installed correctly and then re-installed the diff cover, sanded some rust off the coil buckets, and painted everything...

 

IMG_4671.JPG

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sunday morning i spent about an hour putting it back under the jeep, getting the 4 control arm bolts in, putting the inner shafts back, and attaching the knuckles.

 

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then yesterday about 10am the Fedex lady brought my RCV rebuild kits so i got to work. took a long lunch break to get some other work done and then finished everything just after dark.

 

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last night i took it for a slow spin around the neighborhood and then since nothing fell off or started to make horrible noises, i nervously graduated to the bigger streets and then the freeway.

 

i had one clunk in the steering. after getting B to move the steering wheel for me while i looked, i found out my lower track bar bolt somehow ended up being metric but the sleeve on the bushing is sized for an SAE - there was just barely a difference in size, but enough to matter. i guess before it was torqued down more and squeezed it so tight in the mount that i didn't notice. i have to pick up the right length bolt today from Ace.

 

i still need to put the new steering stabilizer on and center my steering wheel. the track bar mount must have ended up just slightly moved because the wheel is off less than 1/8th of a turn. the axle is still centered at least within the tolerances i am able to measure or see.

 

besides centering the steering, the only thing i had to adjust was one side of the swaybar disconnects - with the Jeep level i couldn't get them both reconnected easily. overall, everything bolted back up really easily so i'm impressed that the shop managed to get all the mounts put back so perfectly.

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for anyone that ever needs to rebuild their RCV's... i couldn't find a good writeup on RCV joints specifically, but found a generic CV joint repair video and the procedure used in it worked perfect for me.

 

i did have to order a brass punch from Amazon (here...) since i couldn't find one locally.

 

skip to about 1:30 on the video

 

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Glad you got it back together without issues.

c4aa07ec31072d5ecf36eeec5932b0abf6b3a36179bc2ef5e1b5e743bfb6c98d.jpg

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changed that lower trackbar bolt, centered the steering wheel, added the new steering stabilizer and insanely shiny new clamp for it, also marked the problem end of the tierod with a red paint-pen so i can watch for any loosening.

 

then ran the Camp Creek Wash last night to make sure everything including the front locker worked correctly still. everything held together and no (new) weird noises. also nice to be able to turn tight in 4LO without hearing that clack-clack-clack from the bad RCV joints.

 

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i need to double check the hub and brake caliper bolts are still tight and then i should be ready for Tucscon this weekend!

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Question on those rcv joints. Don't those have a lifetime warranty? Did they send you the parts to rebuild them, or? What was worn out? The balls, cages, inner or outer races? I haven't heard of people rebuilding them yet, so I am curious. Thx!

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Question on those rcv joints. Don't those have a lifetime warranty? Did they send you the parts to rebuild them, or? What was worn out? The balls, cages, inner or outer races? I haven't heard of people rebuilding them yet, so I am curious. Thx!

 

the warranty only covers breakage not wear and they consider the internal joint components to be wear items.

 

i had a severe clicking... well really it sounded more like pop-pop-pop when turning tight in 4LO. usually this means that the bearing cage has cracked.

 

apparently the metal in that internal spider/cage assembly can also expand sometimes and i think that's what was wrong with mine on one side because i didn't have any cracked or broken pieces. however one side was really hard to rotate by hand when at any angle and then once i had it apart the spider/cage/ball assembly wouldn't move freely like it should.

 

i went ahead and replaced both sides ($99 per side) and my clicking is gone. however, when i emailed RCV about this a while back they told me steering should be limited to 42* to prevent premature wear - but this is ridiculous as my JK axles came set at something well over 50*. i tried limiting it to 42* and i could barely maneuver around town, much less on a tight trail. i left it at a compromise but found that to be annoying this past weekend on the trail so i'm going to set the stops back further in again and if the RCVs wear out soon i'll be pissed because that steering limit is nowhere on the product page for the axles nor in the instructions.

 

here's a post talking about the clicking from multiple people with JKs: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85691&page=2

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pics from this past weekend near Tucson:

 

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used the projector system one night:

 

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pic G took of me actually heating something for breakfast for once (i usually am too lazy and just have yogurt or a cereal bar)!

 

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some pics courtesy of Kaspily:

 

"The Squeeze" on Sutherland Trail:

 

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the warranty only covers breakage not wear and they consider the internal joint components to be wear items.

 

i had a severe clicking... well really it sounded more like pop-pop-pop when turning tight in 4LO. usually this means that the bearing cage has cracked.

 

apparently the metal in that internal spider/cage assembly can also expand sometimes and i think that's what was wrong with mine on one side because i didn't have any cracked or broken pieces. however one side was really hard to rotate by hand when at any angle and then once i had it apart the spider/cage/ball assembly wouldn't move freely like it should.

 

i went ahead and replaced both sides ($99 per side) and my clicking is gone. however, when i emailed RCV about this a while back they told me steering should be limited to 42* to prevent premature wear - but this is ridiculous as my JK axles came set at something well over 50*. i tried limiting it to 42* and i could barely maneuver around town, much less on a tight trail. i left it at a compromise but found that to be annoying this past weekend on the trail so i'm going to set the stops back further in again and if the RCVs wear out soon i'll be pissed because that steering limit is nowhere on the product page for the axles nor in the instructions.

 

here's a post talking about the clicking from multiple people with JKs: http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85691&page=2

Kris… FYI…

 

Below is an exerpt taken from RCV's website: http://www.rcvperformance.com/pdf/rcv_cv_axles_catalog.pdf

 

SUPER DUTY CHROMOLY DOME-MASS CAGE AND RACE WITH SPHERICAL SEALING TECHNOLOGY

- Input and output shafts always make equal angles allowing shaft speeds to remain constant

- Housing, bearing cage, inner-race, and axle shaft are manufactured with aircraft quality high alloy steel, and proprietary construction techniques to make them highly resistant to bursting and fracture.

- Spherical Sealing Technology (SST) utilizes a cast polyurethane cap to provide far greater resistance to punctures and tears than a rubber CV boot. SST is rock-proof, and will not bunch or balloon. This is a patented RCV technology.

 

- Design allows tight steering angles up to 45 degrees, and provides high strength throughout range of motion.

 

- REM Polished for reduced friction, smooth-action, and decreased wear.

- Low maintenance - Unlike U-joints that must be greased almost every time you go out, Ultimate CV axles only need grease a couple times a year, and are easily serviced via a zerk fitting.

- Constant Velocity joint eliminates U-joint binding - allowing smooth transfer power to the ground, and eliminating steering wheel oscillation.

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