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dzJeepChic

ScottLs 2001 XJ

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would be a good time to go ahead and replace the ARB locker seals (o-rings).
True true. I've had good luck with my current set for the past 8 years though and wouldn't necessarily want to ruin a good thing which is part of why I'd really rather leave it alone. That and money.

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During the Desert 4x4 John Memorial run I took the opportunity to flex out the jeep. As things turn out my front drive shaft does not rub on the exhaust flange any longer or bind at the u joints like initially suspected

MJP3Gd

So even though I can easily duplicate the noise by selecting 4lo and shifting my AW4 into "1-2", I'm shelving the HP Dana 30 project . If the noise gets worse or something grenades I'll focus on re-balancing the front drive shaft, potentially looking into a transmission rebuild and maybe new front brakes.

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I stole this awesome photo from kaspily taken during our last run to the Cinders

F48147EE-77F1-4E00-BA5A-89FA186D91CA_zpsjwaeuozr.png

Great shot Sarah!

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here's the subwoofer box we were talking about this weekend: http://subthump.com/Jeep-Custom-Subw...Enclosure.html

looks like several people over on NAXJA have used it: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1051301&page=3

Thanks K, ordered mine this morning!

Going to get the same speaker FaultyLine from NAXJA used in his write up that you posted a pic of https://www.amazon.com/10TW1-4-Audio-300W-4-Ohm-Subwoofer/dp/B00OALB31A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476818258&sr=8-1&keywords=10TW1-4

It's flush mounted and comes with a nice grill for good protection.

 

Also need an amplifier for the sub, I like this one at just under 3" thick61UDtlnlktL._SL1200_.jpghttps://www.amazon.com/Audio-Jx500-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0081K3M5G/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5MVQTDEK1N5WZR4FEDG3

 

& this too61nSaIE9nPL._SL1200_.jpghttps://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-RBC1-Remote-Control/dp/B000UVWFPM/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BFXGGDYE6MC3R1R7T1EY

 

 

What do you think about my amp and speaker choice?

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i think the sub is a good deal since we know it fits the box and includes a nice looking low-profile grille.

 

that amp is rated for 300W x 1 @ 4 Ohm, so it's a good match for the sub, and i know you probably want the same brand as the sub just because you're OCD like me! it does have a low-pass filter, plus both high-level and low-level inputs, so it should work with whatever radio you have.

 

i'd get the box, sub, and amp first. then see exactly where you end up putting the amp before buying wiring.

 

grab a bag of poly-fill since the box is slightly smaller than what the sub is rated for (accousticly speaking): http://amzn.to/2dpgpsz

 

which radio do you have? you might not really need the remote level knob.

 

FYI - you'll probably end up needing some sound dampening foam.. but you can wait and see what rattles and such you get and then order it later.

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Fixed my track bar + new brake pads and rotors todayFB6B9574-C706-4AB6-AA4D-00F2C9C26DAA_zpstdd8zlqb.jpg

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Also got the amp, level controller and box installed over the weekend with a little help from Kbro:

0CF90A9C-C15A-4DA6-8030-8A2C219D03B8_zpslaps183e.jpg

E06F8D6B-313D-4AA6-ABEB-38DE05DBB22A_zpspajv2zix.jpg

49100068-1659-41B3-B679-6F04BAF67706_zpsqhw95jwj.jpg

C3404D6C-168E-4D30-A9EA-30B19ED10ACC_zpsy5oshxaq.jpg

Now just waiting on Amazon.com's #1 rated slowest shipper known to UPS, GPA Electronics. Their subwoofer should have arrived to my doorstep last week:rolleyes:

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per the manual (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/PUSA/Files/DEHP3000IBOperationManual1023.pdf), it looks like you just need to configure your head unit like so...

 

page 23:

- set SW SETTING 1 = NORMAL (or REV if it sounds better to you)

- set SW SETTING 2 > Cut off frequency = probably the highest based on your other speakers

- set SW SETTING 2 > Level = start with 0 and also leave the amp's gain at factory default or the minimum to start with as well

 

page 26:

- set PREOUT = SUB W

- also be sure to leave REAR SP = FULL

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