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ScottLs 2001 XJ

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Custom plates too. Nice George:cool::D

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burned in some rear shock relocators yesterday.

i gained 3 inches of clearance over stock as well as a couple questions burning inside:

 

A. Do my shocks have enough up travel?

 

if so, i also plan to acquire a set of bar pin eliminators: http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc?ki=92&gr=1

if i bolt on bar pin eliminators along with the shock relocator it seems apparent my shocks will be almost fully compressed at ride height.

 

B. Should i re-route my passenger rear brake line currently running in front of the shock stud to the passenger side drum?

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measure from the end of the bumpstop to the place it hits to get your basic uptravel, then add to that half the thickness of the bumpstops (they'll compress about 1/2 their height on a really hard bump)... that's the total uptravel you need if your shocks were str8 up and down, but since they are at a slight angle you have to account for that as well to be completely accurate.

 

it doesn't look like you have enough up-travel from the pic, but hard to tell. if you don't, then you'll be wearing your shocks out and you could also tear the sheet-metal where they mount to the body.

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burned in some rear shock relocators yesterday.

i gained 3 inches of clearance over stock as well as a couple questions burning inside:

 

A. Do my shocks have enough up travel?

 

if so, i also plan to acquire a set of bar pin eliminators: http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc?ki=92&gr=1

if i bolt on bar pin eliminators along with the shock relocator it seems apparent my shocks will be almost fully compressed at ride height.

You ABSOLUTELY do NOT want the shocks to bottom out during full compression, as that will damage the internal valving, and has the potential for damaging the shock mountings also (upper &/or lower).

 

(*) The BEST way to insure that is not going to happen is to first remove the shocks, then flex the springs to full compression, with both sides fully compressed to "metal-to-metal" (where the axle tube is in contact with the frame or the metal portion of the jounce bumper), then with one side fully compressed while the opposite end is fully articulated in rebound (droop) and of course you want to check both sides in full articulation.

 

Where the axle is in full metal-to-metal contact with the metal brackets of the jounce bumper, or the chassis itself, is known as "metal-to-metal" jounce, (or compression). If in doubt about where the metal stop is which is typically located internal to many jounce cushions, simply remove the cushions completely, and use the point at which the axle would contact the chassis in the location where the cushion was mounted, as "full jounce/compression". FWIW: Using 1/2 the cushion height, or any other "partially collapsed" cushion measurement does NOT guarantee you will not bottom out the shock absorber(s), as the forces generated at these locations can indeed be sufficient to FULLY collapse those cushions...:(

 

note(*) with leaf springs, depending on the spring rate and tools you have for compressing the suspension to full metal-to-metal, you may find it easier to remove all but the main leaf of the springs for the compression studies. With coil spring suspensions, simply remove the coil springs to do the articulation verification measurements...

 

B. Should i re-route my passenger rear brake line currently running in front of the shock stud to the passenger side drum?
You may decide to re-route it depending on how protected it is. The goal is to make it protected from the highest percentage of axle-over-ground movements... (usually that means you want the brake tubing on the upper REAR side of the axle tube...)

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it doesn't look like you have enough up-travel from the pic

Nope; plus they're only a month old too, shucks!

You ABSOLUTELY do NOT want the shocks to bottom out during full compression

they bottom out well before full compression. i'm either going to have to buy another pair of shocks that are about 12 inches long at full compression or else cut some holes in my floor.

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Nope; plus they're only a month old too, shucks!

 

they bottom out well before full compression. i'm either going to have to buy another pair of shocks that are about 12 inches long at full compression or else cut some holes in my floor.

OR re-position your lower pivots a little more outboard... they will be less effective in controlling oscillations, but you MAY be able to find a location that improves both ground clearance AND allows you to continue to use this set of shocks...;)

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thanks for the tip ob1.

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the worm drive casing on my driver door window regulator snapped right at the base of the motor.

i could still hear the motor spinning but the window was now stuck in the up position. i called airpark chrysler; they wanted $360 for a replacement regulator plus 2 labor hours X $110 to install it. i was facing a $600+ bill after the service writer got his cut of the lions share in this economy. Argh!

 

so i removed the door panel myself and first applied liberal amounts of jb weld in an attempt to fuse the nylon/plastic back together. even after letting it dry for 24 hours the 'weld' snapped on the third roll up.

then i called AMC salvage in Glendale to see if they had any extras in their boneyard. Julie was super nice and told me they sell 'em brand new in the box for $175. probably not the quality of a mopar unit but if i could somehow manage to get the broken regulator out of the door myself then technically i could afford to replace it 3 times over before succumbing to the stealership. so i drove to amc and was immediately overwhelmed with jeep cherokees! i decided to score a trail spare front drive shaft for $50, a door pin for $5 as well as a brand new Mopar center console latch for $18 since i was now going to be saving all this money. they've also got another room off to the side full of new factory mopar and generic replacement parts for jeep vehicles over at amc.

 

the window regulator R&R was a pain in the backside but i was able to swap it out in roughly an hour and a half thanks to the help of steiger performance's detailed color photograph instructions.

http://www.steigerperformance.com/docs/sp12001_InstructionsD.pdf

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Good work muchacho, one must learn to fix his own rig. George:cool::D

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nice work L!

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