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theksmith

on board air and dual batteries in a WJ

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Good stuff.... I am pretty close to the same....my compressors sit in there as well.... my air tank is only 2.5 gallons..... Nice clean work

 

Cheers

Eddy

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Good stuff.... I am pretty close to the same....my compressors sit in there as well.... my air tank is only 2.5 gallons..... Nice clean work

 

Cheers

Eddy

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ran the wires for the remote control switch before the last trip and then recently got the switch installed as well:

 

P1130133.JPG

 

i guess i can finally call this project done ;) it seems to be working correctly...

 

- after the jeep is on for a few seconds, both lights come on in the switch indicating the batteries are linked. this happens because once the alternator is running, it senses 13.5V or greater for more than 30 seconds.

 

- a few moments after the jeep is off, the lights go out and the batteries are isolated. this happens once it sensed the voltage having dropped to 12.75V for more than 30 seconds. if you turn on the lights or some other accessory when the jeep is off, you notice that it isolates quicker as obviously with some current draw you bring the overall battery charge down faster.

 

- if the alternator were to start putting out too much or too little voltage while the jeep is running, the batteries would isolate as well and the indicator LEDs would blink to warn me of the over/under-voltage condition.

 

- all of the above is with the control switch set to "auto". if i need to i can manually link the batteries by flipping the switch to "on". this would be if the main battery was too low to crank the vehicle or if at a later time i have a winch and need some extra juice on a long pull.

 

- if for any reason the "auto" feature does not work as expected, you can fill the switch to "off" to force isolation and be assured that you are only using the main battery.

 

- if either battery shorts out internally, it would trip one or more of the circuit breakers that i installed right after each battery. if i were to force the Blue Sea ACR to "link", i could still leave either battery out of the circuit by utilizing the breaker and not have to physically disconnect it.

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one last thing to mention on this project - since the batteries are difficult to access, i needed added an Anderson connector to the engine bay. i modified a pair of jumper cables to have a matching connector on one end. this way if i need to jump some one, i can simply connect my cables here. eventually, i'll plug a winch in here as well (and just be able to disconnect it if i never need the jumper cables plugged in).

 

P1130134.JPG

 

P1130135.JPG

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Nice! George:cool::D

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Great write up thanks for all of the info-ideas.

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i purchased both original Sears DieHard Platinum P65 batteries early in 2010. one went bad in 2012 and was replaced (eventually & reluctantly under warranty). supposedly the DieHard Platinum AGMs are re-branded Odysseys - though i don't know if they are really made to the same specs. my other of the original one from 2010 has recently gotten where it doesn't recover from starting well (after short trips it has a hard time with the next start).

 

my main battery is the starting *and* "house" battery so it needs to have a large reserve capacity and cranking amp rating. the AGM group 65 has been good for both. rather than get another P65, i decided to scale down the backup battery - that second battery really is just a backup starter so there's no pressing need for it to be so large. as long as both batteries in a parallel dual-battery system are of the same chemistry (AGM, LiFE, traditional lead-acid, etc.) then its OK for them to have different amp-hour capacities.

 

IMG_6616.JPG

 

my replacement battery is an Odyssey PC1200. this saves space and almost 20 pounds! its rated for 550 CCA or 1200 pulse-hot-cranking-amps and that should be enough to turn over the V8 without any issue. there was no dollar-savings though, it's about the same cost the P65 (FYI, those DieHards were $180 in 2010 and are now $225).

 

besides the weight savings, i can also cram more of my spare parts down in the wheel well now (instead of the cabin area).

 

IMG_6617.JPG

 

BatteriesPlus carries the PC1200 and for a similar price to most online shops. it only comes with a 3 year full replacement warranty, but the Odyssey stuff has a good reputation so i expect to get more than that out of it. you'll notice in the pictures that the terminals are reversed - thats all they carry and getting it the other direction is a special order. fortunately my existing cables still reached.

 

while at BatteriesPlus i talked to them about their X2Power Premium AGM batteries (from NorthStar i think) - they come in several common sizes and seem to be only a few bucks more than the DieHard Platinums. however, they have a 5 year full replacement warranty (limited to 2 replacements)! we'll see how long they keep selling them with that warranty though... the AZ desert is a terrible place for vehicle batteries and before this latest DieHard, i had never had one last over 4 years.

 

- the Sears P65: http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-65-price/p-02851065000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

- the "real" Odyssey 65: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/HEPPC65

- new 5yr warranty X2Power 65: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/SLI65AGMDP

- my new little PC1200: https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/HEPPC1200

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