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DanJL

Good and cheap regear shop?

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George (and D), you've made my decision very simple. My Rubi will go under the knife tomorrow at AZDiff.

 

Thanks again all!

 

Dan

 

Dan, try to hide your New Jersey accent and be sure to tell them who sent you. ;)

 

G :cool:

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Not sure if I can do that. It's part of my charm :)

 

Nate said they have Yukon brand gears, I don't think they're US made, but not sure there are many that are anymore nowdays. I was hoping for Dana 4.88, but he said they don't make them for the JK.

 

Are the Yukon OK?

 

Dan, try to hide your New Jersey accent and be sure to tell them who sent you. ;)

 

G :cool:

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Not sure if I can do that. It's part of my charm :)

 

Nate said they have Yukon brand gears, I don't think they're US made, but not sure there are many that are anymore nowdays. I was hoping for Dana 4.88, but he said they don't make them for the JK.

 

Are the Yukon OK?

Dan, I know of a number of folks who have Yukon gears and are satisfied. That said, in addition, Yukon offers a no-questions-asked, warranty available for purchase within 30 days of purchasing thier gears. See link below… Hope this helps… ;)

 

https://www.yukongear.com/yesplan.aspx

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Dan, I know of a number of folks who have Yukon gears and are satisfied. That said, in addition, Yukon offers a no-questions-asked, warranty available for purchase within 30 days of purchasing thier gears. See link below… Hope this helps… ;)

 

https://www.yukongear.com/yesplan.aspx

 

Thanks for the reassuring feedback!

 

The warranty however only applies to 4.56 and lower. I was thinking about 4.88, but know I have second thoughts.

 

Should I go w 4.56 instead? :confused:

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Thanks for the reassuring feedback!

 

The warranty however only applies to 4.56 and lower. I was thinking about 4.88, but know I have second thoughts.

 

Should I go w 4.56 instead? :confused:

That's because as you go higher in numerical ratios, the pinion gear gets smaller, and the torsional forces get larger. Couple that with larger tires (which also increase torsional forces), AND the potential of having lead footed operators, the higher numerical gears are more prone to failure, thus the reasoning behind limiting the warranty to the 4.56 and lower numerical ratios.

 

That said, driven in a reasonable manner… IE: avoiding full throttle assaults on obstacles, (especially when in low range), they should be fine.

 

I'm of the opinion that 4.56's with 35" tires is a recipe for being dissatisfied with sluggish overall performance, and poor fuel economy as a result of being in "too tall of a gear" for the majority of circumstances.

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Dan, I know of a number of folks who have Yukon gears and are satisfied. That said, in addition, Yukon offers a no-questions-asked, warranty available for purchase within 30 days of purchasing thier gears. See link below… Hope this helps… ;)

 

https://www.yukongear.com/yesplan.aspx

 

That's what I was thinking, because we have some Yukon axle & gear stuff - I think it's made in the USA. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Anyhow we're satisfied too. :cool:

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That's because as you go higher in numerical ratios, the pinion gear gets smaller, and the torsional forces get larger. Couple that with larger tires (which also increase torsional forces), AND the potential of having lead footed operators, the higher numerical gears are more prone to failure, thus the reasoning behind limiting the warranty to the 4.56 and lower numerical ratios.

 

That said, driven in a reasonable manner… IE: avoiding full throttle assaults on obstacles, (especially when in low range), they should be fine.

 

I'm of the opinion that 4.56's with 35" tires is a recipe for being dissatisfied with sluggish overall performance, and poor fuel economy as a result of being in "too tall of a gear" for the majority of circumstances.

 

 

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation! I'll stick w/ the 4.88 then. Seems that the rpm difference between 4.53 and 4.88 is also relatively negligible, ~200rpm. I've just replaced my radiator and the tranny cooler, so I should be fine even in the AZ heat.

 

 

That's what I was thinking, because we have some Yukon axle & gear stuff - I think it's made in the USA. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Anyhow we're satisfied too. :cool:

 

I get a feeling that over the years they might have changed where their manufacturing is done. I found some posts with pics showing the "Made in the USA" stamped on them, but then some others posts state they're made in the same factory like the G2, either in China or Korea.

 

Yukon's site is mum on this subject; most US manufacturers post the "Made in the USA" proudly all over their marketing materials.

 

Anyway, as you say, seems that there's a consensus that they're good quality.

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George (and D), you've made my decision very simple. My Rubi will go under the knife tomorrow at AZDiff.

 

Thanks again all!

 

Dan

 

you may want to re-think coming on the Mt. Graham trip or else wait on the gears. there's a break-in procedure after you do gears and a long loaded down drive in the middle of the AZ summer is not it!

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When I bought my R&P and shafts, the manufacturer had two series of equipment. One made overseas and one made in the USA. They explained that while both were of quality, as well as guaranteed, that the US made series was of stronger alloy. This indeed come with a higher price. This may be why you see some sets with "made in" from different locales. Or the company was purchased and manufacturing was moved...

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you may want to re-think coming on the Mt. Graham trip or else wait on the gears. there's a break-in procedure after you do gears and a long loaded down drive in the middle of the AZ summer is not it!

 

Thanks Kristoffer - good point. Didn't think about it - didn't realize that the gears need brake-in. I also found an Yukon article on the procedure (https://www.yukongear.com/Downloads/Manuals/Yukon_General_Installation_Instructions.pdf) , and it seems more stringent than that for a new car :eek:

 

The Jeep is already in the shop, so I'll forgo the trip :mad:

 

When I bought my R&P and shafts, the manufacturer had two series of equipment. One made overseas and one made in the USA. They explained that while both were of quality, as well as guaranteed, that the US made series was of stronger alloy. This indeed come with a higher price. This may be why you see some sets with "made in" from different locales. Or the company was purchased and manufacturing was moved...

 

I don't think any of their gears are made in the US any longer. They only have some assemblies that state that are "assembled in the US". That sucks, but I guess that's what happens when people ask for "good and cheap"...

 

That's because as you go higher in numerical ratios, the pinion gear gets smaller, and the torsional forces get larger. Couple that with larger tires (which also increase torsional forces), AND the potential of having lead footed operators, the higher numerical gears are more prone to failure, thus the reasoning behind limiting the warranty to the 4.56 and lower numerical ratios.

 

That said, driven in a reasonable manner… IE: avoiding full throttle assaults on obstacles, (especially when in low range), they should be fine.

 

I'm of the opinion that 4.56's with 35" tires is a recipe for being dissatisfied with sluggish overall performance, and poor fuel economy as a result of being in "too tall of a gear" for the majority of circumstances.

 

ob1jeeper, you made very good points, but I did change my mind and went with 4.56 in the end. My rationale is:

1) if the manufacturer can't stand behind their offer of extended warranty, then I won't either

2) my JK has the 3.6 engine, auto, and looking at the RPM/torque/HP curves (see http://image.4wdandsportutility.com/f/features/jeep/1112_4wd_2012_jeep_wrangler_jk_trail_test/33704753+pinline_block/1112-4wd-06+2012-jeep-wrangler-jk-trial-test+dyno-chart.jpg , the sweet spot for my so called 35" Nittos (which actually measure 33.25", is actually somewhere between 4.10 and 4.56 (see http://www.tnjeeps.com/uploads/gallery/album_46/gallery_2_46_253610.jpg). With the olderJK auto (4 speed vs 5) and engine (3.8 vs 3.6), the 4.88 was more appropriate

3) I never really felt that my JK was ever sluggish, even w/ the 3.73. The main reason I'm doing the regear is to avoid overheating the engine on miles-long steep hills which at times forces the tranny in 2nd gear and readline RPM. This results in engine cooler temp to go >250 (even w/ the new radiator), which promptly puts me in "limp mode".

 

 

Again, thank you all for all your help and advice!

 

See you on the next trip (but not this Friday :) )

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