Late to the Party: theksmith's 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Gadget)

[theksmith 3,685]

we scouted a new-to-us trail the other day for a potential future run near town. thanks @scottL for getting these shots of Gadget:

 

 

 

[shellback91 1,635]

On 11/22/2020 at 2:17 PM, theksmith said:

my goal this weekend was to replace the leaky oil cooler, change the spark plugs, and replace the PCV valve. here's the parts:

 

@theksmithWhat part numbers did you use for the PCV valve, plugs and gaskets? In my research I have come across a couple different ones for my 2012 and want make sure I get the right ones when it comes time to have that work done.

Edited January 8, 2021 by shellback91

[theksmith 3,685]

On 1/6/2021 at 11:06 AM, shellback91 said:

@theksmithWhat part numbers did you use for the PCV valve, plugs and gaskets? In my research I have come across a couple different ones for my 2012 and want make sure I get the right ones when it comes time to have that work done.

 

sorry i took so long, i read your post on my phone then forgot to ever come back and reply when on my computer with the info handy...

 

for the 3.6L JK (2012 - 2018):

 

• (1) Fel-Pro MS 97204 Intake Manifold Gasket Set
• (1) Mopar Oil Cooler 68105583AF
• (6) Mopar Spark Plug SP149125AD or Champion RER8ZWYCB4 / 9407 (the Mopar ones are actually Champion too)

 

plug gap is 0.043"

torque on the plugs is 13 lb/ft

 

be sure to double-check the gap on the new plugs. i got actual Mopar ones from a local dealer since it was a last minute repair, and one was way off.

 

also, there's a whole religious internet debate about whether to use anti-seize on modern plugs or not. this article has way more on that than you ever really wanted to know!

 

Edited January 14, 2021 by theksmith

[shellback91 1,635]

1 hour ago, theksmith said:

 

sorry i took so long, i read your post on my phone then forgot to ever come back and reply when on my computer with the info handy...

 

for the 3.6L JK (2012 - 2018):

 

• (1) Fel-Pro MS 97204 Intake Manifold Gasket Set
• (1) Mopar Oil Cooler 68105583AF
• (6) Mopar Spark Plug SP149125AD or Champion RER8ZWYCB4 / 9407 (the Mopar ones are actually Champion too)

 

plug gap is 0.043"

torque on the plugs is 13 lb/ft

 

be sure to double-check the gap on the new plugs. i got actual Mopar ones from a local dealer since it was a last minute repair, and one was way off.

 

also, there's a whole religious internet debate about whether to use anti-seize on modern plugs or not. this article has way more on that than you ever really wanted to know!

 

No worries on the response time. I am in no hurry, just planning out my maintenance for later this year. I am about 7k miles from plugs needing replaced so I am thinking of getting the PCV valve done then since it will already be taken apart. Do you have the PCV part number available?  The oil cooler is brand new so I am good there but will save the part number just in case.

[theksmith 3,685]

4 minutes ago, shellback91 said:

No worries on the response time. I am in no hurry, just planning out my maintenance for later this year. I am about 7k miles from plugs needing replaced so I am thinking of getting the PCV valve done then since it will already be taken apart. Do you have the PCV part number available?  The oil cooler is brand new so I am good there but will save the part number just in case.

 

it's Mopar part # 68083202AC and i still haven't replaced mine - tried, but couldn't get the bottom screw out. i was told i could probably get to it if i remove the entire battery tray.

 

 

[theksmith 3,685]

i thought the Jeep was possessed for a moment this afternoon - went to get in and it made a horrible clicking/popping noise for a couple seconds.

 

seems my blend door actuator is has stripped a few gear teeth. there are 3 actuators in the JK's climate system, so depending on where in the dash the noise is coming from tells you which one needs attention. failures with these actuators and the actual vent door mechanisms are pretty common. at least this one won't require removing the entire dash like on my WJ!

 

i couldn't find a good example of the noise in a JK, but it sounds exactly the same as the broken one in this Mustang... - @mynr1 is this what you were talking about at the Dirt Gala?

 

here's the best video i could find on how to get to this one particular actuator:

 

 

Edited January 15, 2021 by theksmith

[shellback91 1,635]

6 hours ago, theksmith said:

i thought the Jeep was possessed for a moment this afternoon - went to get in and it made a horrible clicking/popping noise for a couple seconds.

 

seems my blend door actuator is has stripped a few gear teeth. there are 3 actuators in the JK's climate system, so depending on where in the dash the noise is coming from tells you which one needs attention. failures with these actuators and the actual vent door mechanisms are pretty common. at least this one won't require removing the entire dash like on my WJ!

 

i couldn't find a good example of the noise in a JK, but it sounds exactly the same as the broken one in this Mustang... - @mynr1 is this what you were talking about at the Dirt Gala?

 

here's the best video i could find on how to get to this one particular actuator:

 

 

I had the same issue on the passenger side last year.  It is an obnoxious noise at best and does in fact sound like the Jeep is possessed or something.

[theksmith 3,685]

the part number for that blend door actuator is Mopar #68018109AA. it was a mild PITA to get to, but still took less than a hour from start to finish.

 

so much noise made by a single missing tooth!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 18, 2021 by theksmith

[johnpa 680]

How hard was it to remove this part?

[theksmith 3,685]

24 minutes ago, johnpa said:

How hard was it to remove this part?

 

there are 3 of these actuators in the JK, i think 2 are easily accessible by removing the glovebox. not sure if they are all the same part number or not but the blend door one is definitely #68018109AA. Mopar branded are $40 to $90, you can get a Dorman one much cheaper.

 

of course the one that went bad for me was under the steering column and getting to it was a slight PITA, but still a quick job. snapping the piece of duct-work back in took the most fiddling. 

 

getting the screws and bolts back in wasn't too bad even with the tight working conditions, i used a little piece of tape to hold them on the socket and screwdriver to get them started without dropping one.

 

the only tools required are a stubby phillips screwdriver, a 1/4" ratchet, 10mm and 8mm sockets, and a really long extension with a wobble end or a universal adapter.

 

watch that video i referenced, it shows the whole process.

 

do you think this is what was wrong with @mynr1's dash noise?

Edited January 18, 2021 by theksmith