scottL 173 Posted March 23, 2021 Nice work & clean pan man. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted March 24, 2021 doing fluids this week, putting all this info here mainly for my future reference... doing my regular engine oil & filter today (3.6L). i use 6 quarts of any major manufacturer's 0W-20 (synthetic) (instead of the recommended 5W-20) and Mopar filter #68191349AC. also changing diff fluid today. i use any major brand for this as well... - front Rubicon Dana 44 uses 2.70 pints (1.35 quarts / 1.3 Liters) of 80W-90 (conventional) gear oil - rear Rubicon Dana 44 uses 4.75 pints (2.375 quarts / 2.25 Liters) of 75W-140 (synthetic) gear oil (for the towing/heavy-duty application, 80W-90 recommended otherwise) G just did the trans filter for me and exchanged about 1.3 gallons of Mopar ATF+4 during that (WA580 automatic) i did the t-case (NV-241OR) which took around 2.1 quarts of Mopar ATF+4 (fill until oozes back out the hole) between a thermostat change a while back and the recent oil-cooler replacement, i think enough coolant has been exchanged to consider that OK for now. i need to check at what mileage i last flushed brakes and power-steering, it may be time to do those again. an AEM Dry-Flow air filter is currently installed in my K&N snorkel air-box. i blow out the loose dust at every oil change then wash it out completely every 10k miles (or less if it look really bad). i change the cabin air filters every 10k miles or less depending on how they look. i use whatever is cheapest on Amazon Prime, which lately has been this EPAuto brand. the authentic Mopar one is part #68233626AA. i do the oil/filter at every 3k, 6k and 9k mileage mark. this means the 9k to 3k rollaround is a 4k mile interval and the rest are 3k mile intervals, but using those regular odometer numbers helps me keep track of things easier. Gadget has 116k miles on her currently! now that i have a drain in the trans, i'll probably exchange that gallon or so of fluid at every 9k mark - that's typically when i change the cabin air filter and wash the AEM intake filter. FYI, the lighter engine oil and frequent changes instead of the recommended 5 to 7k mile intervals are because of the multiple valve train issues i've had. this is at the recommendation of a couple mechanics i trust. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shellback91 1,633 Posted March 24, 2021 4 hours ago, theksmith said: FYI, the lighter engine oil and frequent changes instead of the recommended 5 to 7k mile intervals are because of the multiple valve train issues i've had. this is at the recommendation of a couple mechanics i trust. I have read various things about 0W-20 oil including that it "quiets" down the engine when started because the oil circulates quicker. Have you noticed that? What other benefits have you noticed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted March 26, 2021 On 3/24/2021 at 11:44 AM, shellback91 said: I have read various things about 0W-20 oil including that it "quiets" down the engine when started because the oil circulates quicker. Have you noticed that? What other benefits have you noticed? i didn't notice any really obvious differences. i'm just trying to not stave off another top-end rebuild... there are some very tiny holes in the rocker arms that supposedly help direct oil onto the roller bearings which are known for disintegrating and then causing all sorts of valve train issues. the main symptom being a loud ticking that continues long after startup. so with that in mind, various folks think that running a thinner oil may help keep those roller bearings lubricated better. additionally, using a high quality filter and changing it and the oil more frequently may help prevent particles from clogging those tiny oil passages. i have also heard (but not confirmed) that the newer JL and JT rigs with the 3.6L now call for 0W-20 from the factory. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
4x4tographer 2,531 Posted March 26, 2021 Just now, theksmith said: i have also heard (but not confirmed) that the newer JL and JT rigs with the 3.6L now call for 0W-20 from the factory. This is true. My JL came from the factory with Pennzoil 0W-20. I'm now running Mobile1. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) finally bought a set of these "Dirt Bagz" rear under-seat storage bags i've been eyeing for like 2 or 3 years! review & more photos here... Edited March 26, 2021 by theksmith 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mynr1 185 Posted March 26, 2021 Also running 0W-20 in 2013 JKU with 150400+ miles. Two top end rebuilds, one on factory warranty, one on me. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted April 6, 2021 Gadget on The Step obstacle of the Charouleau Gap trail (video by @SonoranWanderer) - this was the third approach, kept getting hung up on the driver side rock rail... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnpa 679 Posted April 12, 2021 Kris, when you changed your diff. fluids did you have some fine material on the magnetic plugs? I just did mine and the rear had more than the front but it was a fine material. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted April 12, 2021 20 minutes ago, johnpa said: Kris, when you changed your diff. fluids did you have some fine material on the magnetic plugs? I just did mine and the rear had more than the front but it was a fine material. yes, i've always had a decent blob of black gooey powder on the magnetic plugs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
