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theksmith

Late to the Party: theksmith's 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Gadget)

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we did a little run to the Bonanza mine ruins yesterday...

 

 

Gadget waiting for the group at our meetup spot just off Hwy 93:

 

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the clouds were so nice yesterday morning i decided to grab some Starbucks and take a short drive to the edge of town. this is just out past the turnoff for Bartlett where the Sears Kay fire was last year.

 

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What's that I notice?  Water/mud to be had and your tire tracks going AROUND all that potential fun?  😄

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3 minutes ago, Trail Toy said:

What's that I notice?  Water/mud to be had and your tire tracks going AROUND all that potential fun?  😄

 

i loathe mud!

 

sure, i've done my fare share of rompin' in the past... but i'd rather not spend $60 and 2 hours at the DIY car wash!

 

old video of Lafawnduh playing dirty:

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

@Number7 and i recently traded some work on each others' rigs...

 

George replaced my transmission filter and custom installed a Fumoto drain valve into the pan. the OEM pan has no drain at all and we both like to replace some fluid every few oil-changes instead of waiting 50k+ miles to do a complete trans flush.

 

note that Dorman does make a replacement pan with a drain plug for this trans, but it's for a different vehicle because the plug sits directly above the exhaust crossover on a JK and would be impossible to access.

 

i ordered a Fumoto F102S drain valve and a 3/8" BSP threaded brass nut to match its thread. G drilled a hole in the pan near at the back passenger-side corner to install the drain. he sealed it all up with grey RTV. i figured grey is used on the transfer case halves, so it must be able to survive ATF+4 fluid.

 

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G suggested i add a small heat shield to the crossover pipe to ensure the plastic security clip on the valve would not melt. i had some left over from my recent custom emergency fluid storage area project, so that was a quick addition using a couple large hose clamps.

 

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i already have the little elbow and hose that clips onto the Fumoto snort-nipple valves to drain fluid neatly into a bucket, since that's what i use for my oil changes.

 

 

while i had all the skid plates off, i went ahead and changed my transfer-case fluid as well. a cheap transfer pump that attaches directly to quart or gallon jugs makes that an easy job.

 

 

the Mopar part numbers used for all this:

 

- ATF+4 for the transmission and the transfer-case: #68218058AC

- transmission pan gasket: #52108332AA

- transmission filter: #52108325AA

Edited by theksmith
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36 minutes ago, theksmith said:

@Number7 and i recently traded some work on each others' rigs...

 

George replaced my transmission filter and custom installed a Fumoto drain valve into the pan. the OEM pan has no drain at all and we both like to replace some fluid every few oil-changes instead of waiting 50k+ miles to do a complete trans flush.

 

 

 

Here's a couple more pictures from the project.

 

20210315_151656.jpg

 

20210315_153407.jpg

 

Creampuff was a little bent out of shape that Gadget kicked Clifford out of the garage, but they were smiling like besties by the end of the week. :D 

 

20210315_160828.jpg

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Nice work & clean pan man.

 

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doing fluids this week, putting all this info here mainly for my future reference...

 

 

 

  • also changing diff fluid today. i use any major brand for this as well...
  •  - front Rubicon Dana 44 uses 2.70 pints (1.35 quarts / 1.3 Liters) of 80W-90 (conventional) gear oil
  •  - rear Rubicon Dana 44 uses 4.75 pints (2.375 quarts / 2.25 Liters) of 75W-140 (synthetic) gear oil (for the towing/heavy-duty application, 80W-90 recommended otherwise)

 

  • G just did the trans filter for me and exchanged about 1.3 gallons of Mopar ATF+4 during that (WA580 automatic)
  • i did the t-case (NV-241OR) which took around 2.1 quarts of Mopar ATF+4 (fill until oozes back out the hole)

 

  • between a thermostat change a while back and the recent oil-cooler replacement, i think enough coolant has been exchanged to consider that OK for now.
  • i need to check at what mileage i last flushed brakes and power-steering, it may be time to do those again.

 

  • an AEM Dry-Flow air filter is currently installed in my K&N snorkel air-box. i blow out the loose dust at every oil change then wash it out completely every 10k miles (or less if it look really bad).
  • i change the cabin air filters every 10k miles or less depending on how they look. i use whatever is cheapest on Amazon Prime, which lately has been this EPAuto brand. the authentic Mopar one is part #68233626AA.

 

i do the oil/filter at every 3k, 6k and 9k mileage mark. this means the 9k to 3k rollaround is a 4k mile interval and the rest are 3k mile intervals, but using those regular odometer numbers helps me keep track of things easier.

 

Gadget has 116k miles on her currently!

 

now that i have a drain in the trans, i'll probably exchange that gallon or so of fluid at every 9k mark - that's typically when i change the cabin air filter and wash the AEM intake filter.

 

FYI, the lighter engine oil and frequent changes instead of the recommended 5 to 7k mile intervals are because of the multiple valve train issues i've had. this is at the recommendation of a couple mechanics i trust.

 

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4 hours ago, theksmith said:

FYI, the lighter engine oil and frequent changes instead of the recommended 5 to 7k mile intervals are because of the multiple valve train issues i've had. this is at the recommendation of a couple mechanics i trust.

 

I have read various things about 0W-20 oil including that it "quiets" down the engine when started because the oil circulates quicker.  Have you noticed that? What other benefits have you noticed?

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On 3/24/2021 at 11:44 AM, shellback91 said:

I have read various things about 0W-20 oil including that it "quiets" down the engine when started because the oil circulates quicker.  Have you noticed that? What other benefits have you noticed?

 

 

i didn't notice any really obvious differences. i'm just trying to not stave off another top-end rebuild...

 

there are some very tiny holes in the rocker arms that supposedly help direct oil onto the roller bearings which are known for disintegrating and then causing all sorts of valve train issues. the main symptom being a loud ticking that continues long after startup. so with that in mind, various folks think that running a thinner oil may help keep those roller bearings lubricated better. additionally, using a high quality filter and changing it and the oil more frequently may help prevent particles from clogging those tiny oil passages.

 

i have also heard (but not confirmed) that the newer JL and JT rigs with the 3.6L now call for 0W-20 from the factory.

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