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theksmith

Late to the Party: theksmith's 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Gadget)

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17 hours ago, theksmith said:

paid the car wash for a hand-wax and interior "super clean" and then went over the exterior again myself with  Chemical Guys HydroSpeed Ceramic Quick Detailer. she looks great from a few feet away!

 

this is the first time i've used the HydroSpeed. my normal go-to is their Synthetic Quick Detailer. it did give a deeper gloss and really made it slick as hell. however, it's also more than twice the cost of the Synthetic Quick Detailer, so i'm not sure it's worth that unless it survives more than 1 wash - we'll see!

 

 

 

Looking good. I like the Synthetic Quick Detailer but may have to try the other stuff depending on how it works for you. I found out there are a couple of Chemical Guys retail stores in the valley with all kinds of goodies. We visited one and almost got in trouble in there. 🙂

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20 hours ago, shellback91 said:

Chemical Guys retail stores in the valley with all kinds of goodies. We visited one and almost got in trouble in there.

Not sure what your experience has been, but mine is that the retail stores are a great place to check out and compare products in person but not to go crazy buying a bunch of product.

 

Sign up for Chemical Guys emails.  The prices and discounts are worth it.  
I was told in the retail store that they don’t honor online prices or discounts.   YRMV

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got a little crazy touching up things today - wheels, sliders, some undercarriage...

 

AM-JKLUoflwI-4lKe40w1ZGRrM_M9kDIDAqq0lDw

 

AM-JKLXOy4wcgxJ-3AvDYSVAHeI0IKJ0FUk5p0fp

 

AM-JKLVpM30xtSbXyIEwvr57lX2db1MYFGsv0Lz7

 

unrelated, but also happen to get a new windshield today.

 

AM-JKLUuwkHtTjdd7Av2j57Aea2GLN8z1BEb3o80

 

 

 

 

 

 

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out with the old:

 

AM-JKLXAbAGj7tG2dIyvzEMAPbUAVH2FwZQhlSoW

 

in with the new 1350 double-cardan style rear DS:

 

AM-JKLX-nkG4uY-yYInO7GxuWEW9_TeblP2EyxsR

 

as if to further prove you can never make "just one" modification - the joint at the axle end now hits my gas and water tank skids when articulating. i did a flex test and just before max articulation, i heard a nasty metal-on-metal WHACK WHACK WHACK! it hits enough that it's not going to safely "self-clearance".

 

AM-JKLWB4VOPFE531pFz4UhioN5NtW0_KQ2JSbR_

 

AM-JKLW8v0QnCUsY5iZSPQWr2IPvOqbSLRGy3CXN

 

in hopes of an easy fix, i added 1" of bump-stop extension to the rear so as to limit axle up-travel a bit. i was already planning to relocate my lower rear shock mounts upwards for better clearance, so once that's complete i would still have the same total travel.

 

AM-JKLVvmYjlyTXrS8Ix42LNx0qxPSDLF19B_Gb_

 

the extra extensions helped mostly fix the rubbing on the OEM gas tank skid, but it's still smacking the custom water tank skid pretty hard. i'm going to have to re-shape a section of that - guess i'm doing some cutting and welding this weekend!

 

Edited by theksmith
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It’s alllllllways something! 
 

What shaft did you go with?

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15 minutes ago, 4x4tographer said:

It’s alllllllways something! 
 

What shaft did you go with?

 

i used Driveshafts Direct in Vegas for a 1350 solid u-joint (non greasable) double-cardan shaft along with the required new axle yoke and t-case flange.

 

i've had their 1350 front shaft for a while without any issues. they use the same diameter and thickness of tube as everyone else (Adam's, Tom Woods, J.E. Reel, etc.) and use all Neapco brand components except the rear yoke on this one was an Adam's forged piece. however, this shaft (including the yoke & flange) was $545 whereas the same setup from Adam's is $709 and other companies charge even more. shipping was free and it was at my door in 3 days.

 

i've used Tom Woods before and they know their stuff, i'd use them again if i needed something super custom. however, i don't see any reason not to recommend these Driveshafts Direct guys for a standard 1310 or 1350 shaft on a common platform like your typical lifted TJ/JK/JL/etc.

 

 

 

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i think i've managed to solve the new rear driveshaft/yoke rubbing issues without major surgery...

 

i checked my angles and realized the rear pinion needed to come down a tad, so i lengthened the lower control arms 1 full turn. i was also able to loosen the mounts to slide my water tank setup more outboard by just maybe a quarter inch. after those 2 minor changes, the yoke seems to no longer hit the water tank skid and only barely kiss the OEM gas tank skid. i think i can actually still bring the pinion down just a tiny bit more and maybe have everything be good!

 

poser shot while out testing:

 

AM-JKLVdy2Qy7whxEzQu7keIuUs3oyAdVA_0zMK-

 

 

Edited by theksmith
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i'm going to call that rear driveshaft/yoke rubbing issue "good enough".

 

i took the lower arms out several more turns and my rear angles are currently: tcase = 9* / ds = 8.5* / pinion = 10*. the yoke still ever so slightly kisses the oem gas tank skid at absolute max flex, but i think it's ok. i could move the pinion further down/back, but i have to completely remove the arms each time i mess with it because of the bracket skids and so after several times i'm over it!

 

3ypvCQbde2_hW93ChNlpM-hi8iuqPvQcwiBRKJqM

 

 

 

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AM-JKLWY2fs2kpNBrO353W0aeNV-71EBnBwJGCuR

 

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