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theksmith

Late to the Party: theksmith's 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Gadget)

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23 hours ago, dzJeepChic said:

What in the world happened to your driveshaft?

 

i started getting the tell-tale "angry sparrows" when i'd hit about 20mph on the trail. in my experience this is most often a dry double-cardan centering ball in one of the drive shafts, or sometimes a dry or bad u-joint. you can tell by the speed of the chirps whether it's in the DS or the front axle shafts - in my case sounded like a DS and i figured it was the front since that aftermarket shaft has been in for a couple years with over 30k miles on it.

 

pulling the entire front shaft on the trail is a PITA due to a couple of my skid plates, so i put it in 2wd and just unbolted the pinion end, then tied it up out of the way with a zip-tie and some bailing wire. the noise went away, so that confirmed it was indeed the front shaft and then i was able to get home without worrying about damaging it further running it dry at highway speeds.

 

once i got home and removed the DS, all the joints and the center still felt good (no play) and there was no evidence of spinning end caps, so i just greased the center and called it good. this 1350 front shaft does not have a grease-fitting on the center, but you can wedge a long needle tip between the boot/seal and the ball area in a few spots to grease it.

 

AM-JKLWXmj2BV-GpEDMaxwdAeprYJD1t4J4EdKCr

 

 

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Posted (edited)

forgot to ever post this... late last year i bent my Clayton drag-link (from their flip kit) and so i swapped to a Synergy one. i already had that on my wishlist because i run the Synergy tie-rod and so now i only have to carry a single spare TRE that can work on all 4 ends.

 

after installing, i noticed it was just barely hitting the axle-end of my steering stabilizer (not Synergy's fault, i'm running a non-OEM stabilizer setup). i was able to adjust each TRE to center the bar better and now it's all good.

 

AM-JKLUBLbE2n3XBxKX97No04bcFvKK2OQozCKMn

 

yet another flex test after getting it all dialed in:

 

AM-JKLVtAKzy3kA7LKfaSRNzAuoS62q9aHC0Rlze

 

Edited by theksmith
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Posted (edited)

photo of a very dusty Gadget from the Ruby Wash run (shot by @4x4tographer)...

 

AM-JKLVBCIPI8WjUt_35jMclUwWmQ_vV_ar_tSJt

Edited by theksmith
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Posted (edited)

a couple months ago i started getting an intermittent squeak coming from the engine bay and soon found all 3 idler pulleys needed replacing (part #4627039aa).

 

i had changed out the 2 easy ones at around 65k miles, so now with 130k on the clock it was time again. i highly recommend everyone carry an extra idler and serpentine belt as your first spare parts, even on a newer rig. constant trail dust (or mud) simply kills the bearings in these little guys pretty fast.

 

i bought a new tensioner assembly (part #4627038aa) in order to replace the third idler that supposedly isn't serviceable separately. after taking off the old assembly, i got a better look, and it turns out you can just pop a plastic cap off the pulley to expose a large T-50 torx bolt, and then that pulley appears to be exactly the same as the other 2! i did have to use an impact to get that pulley bolt out - it seemed to have some white threadlocker on it from the factory. 

 

AM-JKLVUIu_W4GQjIJBls5ylFduccf-JjGogzzou

 

i also noticed the A/C pulley was making sort of a "rattle" when the clutch engaged, and i eventually determined that bearing was sloppy as well.

 

i was doing all this just before our Red Creek trip and a new Mopar pulley/hub/bearing kit (part #68143610ab) was not going to be available in time. so i ordered just a replacement bearing. the bearing is 30mm x 52mm x 22 mm and can be found under a bunch of part numbers, such as 30BD5222A6 for this NSK.

 

the old bearing is sort of crimped in, but you can press it out with a large socket and vice or even a hammer.

 

AM-JKLVOTcTmZiusSrl8eOKs2aA-UtWaZSm0R7Mw

 

this got me a nice clean spinning pulley... but i had unknowingly dropped one of the A/C clutch spacers, so the air gap was no longer even close to correct. then, in the process of trying to get it adjusted with some thin washers i had, i accidentally burned up/cracked what i assume is a friction material ring on the pulley. doh!

 

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i later learned that even though they don't list it for this application, Napa and Autozone both carry a compressor clutch install kit with a few spacers and a new bolt that will work (Santech part #MT0986). i'd recommend if you change the bearing, you have a set of feeler gauges and get that install kit because the bearing may be slightly different (even if you don't lose a spacer), and getting the air gap correct is important.

 

so after all that - i ended up getting a whole kit from acclutches.com that came with a new hub/pulley/bearing, clutch plate, clutch coil, spacers, snap rings, and end bolt. so it replaces everything that can fail besides the actual compressor itself, uses a genuine NSK bearing, and included good DIY instructions all for under $120.

 

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and finally, i of course replaced the serpentine belt while i was in there (part #4627043aa).

 

what started out as a little squeak turned into a few hundred dollars, a weekend trip without A/C, and several days messing around in the engine bay!

 

Edited by theksmith
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Posted (edited)

a quick mini-mod...

 

i started using my longer ham antenna again recently after realizing how much the stubby one i had was limiting reception. it doesn't fit in the garage though... so i made a little line i can hook onto it, which bends it over enough to fit. grabbing the line is just faster/easier than unscrewing the antenna after each run.

 

AM-JKLVftJp95Hx0sxVlruswfR7w7xHR7i2TzgIW

Edited by theksmith
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Posted (edited)

the driver's side of my lovely 3.6L started ticking last weekend on our Mammoth area trip:(

 

Joe at On Point Performance & Offroad replaced all the rockers/lifters on the passenger side just over a year ago for me. however, he's booked up for a month and a half right now, so i'm going to tackle this side myself.

 

it cost around $300 in parts/tools to do this side:

 

 

i did the spark plugs not too long ago, so i don't think there's anything else i need to change "while i'm in there".

 

i'll probably work on it Sunday and will be using the videos from MotorCity Mechanic on Youtube as a reference: Part 1... and Part 2...

Edited by theksmith
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1 hour ago, theksmith said:

i'll probably work on it Sunday and will be using the videos from MotorCity Mechanic on Youtube as a reference: Part 1... and Part 2...

That's a huge project, good luck with this!

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On 4/28/2022 at 4:36 AM, theksmith said:

the driver's side of my lovely 3.6L started ticking last weekend on our Mammoth area trip:(

 

Joe at On Point Performance & Offroad replaced all the rockers/lifters on the passenger side just over a year ago for me. however, he's booked up for a month and a half right now, so i'm going to tackle this side myself.

 

it cost around $300 in parts/tools to do this side:

 

 

i did the spark plugs not too long ago, so i don't think there's anything else i need to change "while i'm in there".

 

i'll probably work on it Sunday and will be using the videos from MotorCity Mechanic on Youtube as a reference: Part 1... and Part 2...

 

 

Season 8 Checks Watch GIF by SpongeBob SquarePants

 

it wasn't too bad of a job - right at 5 hours from start to finish and all tools put away. faster/easier than the oil-cooler replacement was. the passenger side would probably take at least 2 hours longer since on that side you have to remove the inner fender liner, TIPM, battery tray, etc.

 

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the biggest PITA is removing (and reinstalling) everything that's in the way before you can even get the valve cover off. the only other challenge i had was getting the phasers back onto the camshafts. i had to use a stiff plastic pry bar and a lot of wiggling even with the chain tension released.

 

i only found one actual rocker that was obviously bad, the rear-most on the exhaust side.

 

there were a few cam lobes with dull spots, but they weren't dull all the way across and i couldn't feel a height difference so i did not elect to replace either camshaft. they must have been marred from previous bad rockers that were replaced under warranty.

 

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Clap Applause GIF by Denyse®

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As long as you DON'T come up with any nifty little mods when you're in there it should be "fine" 🙄

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