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theksmith

Late to the Party: theksmith's 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon (Gadget)

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lense flares making Gadget look like an alien craft coming in for a landing!

 

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Edited by theksmith
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ran into a couple small issues trying to wrap up this hub project...

 

 

the new front brake calipers combined with the Metal Cloak Outboard Shock Relocation Brackets are causing brake line clearance issues. the 90* banjo end hits the shock at full articulation and the hose is also getting pinched between the shock body and the tire.

 

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i needed hoses with a regular round banjo fitting instead of the square one that most JK sets come with, and they needed to be straight ended instead of 90*, plus be a fair bit longer than most extended line sets so i can route them in front of the shock. i ended up ordering a custom made pair of 32" SS braided lines from Helper Performance in CA for just under $130.

 

 

 

the second problem is one of my front lower control arms is seized up, so i can't adjust my caster yet. the jam nut will loosen, but the 2 parts of the arm will not budge... i've tried PB blaster, 4ft of cheater pipe, a BFH, and a torch. i even tried offroading with the jam nut loose as a last resort, but it still hasn't budged!

 

unfortunately it looks like Teraflex doesn't still make their traditional "johnny joint" style short Flex Arms. i'll call them on Tuesday to see if they have one laying around somewhere they could sell me. otherwise i may try out Core4x4 if i have to buy a whole new set of lower front arms.

 

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Edited by theksmith
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Teraflex did still have some of their old FlexArm style control arms and I was able to just purchase a single front lower arm, which should arrive in a couple days. the custom brake lines from Helper Performance are not shipping till Monday though.

 

this afternoon a low speed squeak prompted me to find that the passenger side parking brake was sticking, while the driver side was barely engaging. i removed the new rotors and cleaned out the whole parking brake system really well, then adjusted both sides to engage at the same level.

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quick little mod, unrelated to the hub project...

 

my Clayton engine/trans & t-case skids use countersunk bolts everywhere except for 4 that go into the frame. every time i need to remove the t-case skid for some reason, i first have to file down the newly-mangled heads of those bolts to fit a socket on them.

 

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i decided to try these washers skids and countersunk bolts from MetalCloak to see how they do in those locations instead.

 

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the downside of countersunk bolts is there's no easy way to deal with a stripped head, so i always use anti-seize to make sure i can get them back out easily - and am super careful to fully seat the hex bit when using an impact gun.

 

i had to grind down the 2 front ones just a bit so they would sit flat against the skid, other than that this was a 5 minute mod.

 

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Edited by theksmith
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Kris,  

You probably know this,  but maybe for others reading this,  if you strip the head of your new bolts you have options.

 

My preferred method would be to cut a slot in the head with a cutoff wheel in a die grinder.  
Then remove, or try, to remove the bolt like a straight slot screw.
The key to this method is to purchase what’s called a “drag link socket”.  


Stanley Proto J5444A 1/2" Drive Socket, Drag Link 3/4" https://a.co/d/j2KpNXV


This old design tool is basically a large, wide, hollow ground, straight slot screw driver bit.

 

This method also works well on security head screws.  
I just removed an old exterior security door that used “one way” headed bolts to secure the door frame to the house.

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2 minutes ago, jgaz said:

Kris,  

You probably know this,  but maybe for others reading this,  if you strip the head of your new bolts you have options.

 

My preferred method would be to cut a slot in the head with a cutoff wheel in a die grinder.  
Then remove, or try, to remove the bolt like a straight slot screw.
The key to this method is to purchase what’s called a “drag link socket”.  


Stanley Proto J5444A 1/2" Drive Socket, Drag Link 3/4" https://a.co/d/j2KpNXV


This old design tool is basically a large, wide, hollow ground, straight slot screw driver bit.

 

This method also works well on security head screws.  
I just removed an old exterior security door that used “one way” headed bolts to secure the door frame to the house.

 

thanks Jim, I had not seen that drag link socket before!

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6 minutes ago, theksmith said:

 

thanks Jim, I had not seen that drag link socket before!

This tool could turn in to being an age indicator.

Im betting @ob1jeeper and @Curly among others, both knew what these sockets were and probably have examples in their tool collections.

Edited by jgaz
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4 hours ago, jgaz said:

This tool could turn in to being an age indicator.

Im betting @ob1jeeper and @Curly among others, both knew what these sockets were and probably have examples in their tool collections.

Guilty as charged Jim...   And I do have at least one of these in my tool box, dating from the mid-1940's (was my Dad's)...  It too is a Proto...  ;)

 

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6 hours ago, jgaz said:

This tool could turn in to being an age indicator.

Im betting @ob1jeeper and @Curly among others, both knew what these sockets were and probably have examples in their tool collections.

Yes, I have one I use on my 59 Cadillac and I had several different sizes at Yuma High School when I taught there.  They were used probably less than 5 times while I was there, and mostly by me on my 59 Chevy Truck.

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2 hours ago, ob1jeeper said:

Guilty as charged Jim...   And I do have at least one of these in my tool box, dating from the mid-1940's (was my Dad's)...  It too is a Proto...  ;)

 

 

25 minutes ago, Curly said:

Yes, I have one I use on my 59 Cadillac and I had several different sizes at Yuma High School when I taught there.  They were used probably less than 5 times while I was there, and mostly by me on my 59 Chevy Truck.

Two for two!

 

Tim has me however because if I ever used mine for it’s intended purpose I sure don’t remember.

 

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