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theksmith

Late to the Party: theksmith's 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon

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oh, and remote start kicks butt - i wanted to add that my WJ for really long time!

Heck yes it does!

 

 

By the way, when are you going to update your Avatar signature Kbro? You and George both are slacking on that detail.

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Someone shared an article from a FOX News affiliate on Mike Fissel's facebook page today about a Kellogg's factory worker who relieved his bladder on a conveyor belt of corn flakes. The poster said it reminded him of Mike's mom who was known to say: "Who pi$$ed in your corn flakes this morning?" to grumps.

 

And here is this perfect example of somebody pi$$ing in somebody else's corn flakes. What a coincidence. :rolleyes:

 

Selling my XJ for a JK was the worst vehicle mistake I ever made. Hopefully your luck is better.

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I'm curious as well.......

Worst vehicle mistake you ever made. Care to expand on that comment, Virg? Is it:

 

  • concerned about damage/warranty defect issue?
  • too bulbous compared to the XJ?
  • didn't realize cost of lifting & adding aftermarket doo-dads on top of vehicle payment?

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

 

P.S. I miss your XJ.

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Holy shit, I just saw this... I can't believe it!!! Your WJ would be a dream to own haha.

 

Its definitely still a Jeep, at any rate. Good luck your new build, will be watching. :)

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i have plans for a rear flip-down tailgate table 95% sorted out (i think i can do a better job and for a little less money than all of the production ones i could find).

 

I'm waiting patiently to see what your design is and the build sheet ;).

 

 

IMO, breakover angle is the biggest limitation this one has as it came from the factory. for my first wheeling mods i've ordered a steering stabilizer relocation bracket, and i need to figure out which engine/tranny skid to get (the pans are pretty unprotected even on the Rubicon).

 

Skid was my first mod, I went with the Rock Hard oil.tranny skid. Has nice access cutout for oil changes and very low profile. rockhard4x4.com. I also did the Evap Mod. Pretty quik fix to add some piece-of-mind. :cool:

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WHAT????? :eek: Sad day for sure (for us WJ owners that is ;)) Totally understand your reasoning. I really liked the JK's, but it was the initial cost that kept me from going that route. Like the new rig, and look forward to seeing the progression of it just like the WJ. Congrats

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I'm waiting patiently to see what your design is and the build sheet ;).

 

Skid was my first mod, I went with the Rock Hard oil.tranny skid. Has nice access cutout for oil changes and very low profile. rockhard4x4.com. I also did the Evap Mod. Pretty quik fix to add some piece-of-mind. :cool:

 

thanks for the tip on the evap mod - did you lift yours any yet?

 

i need to get an engine/tranny skid for sure, but i'm having trouble deciding which one... a lot of the nicest skids are meant to work with the other pieces as a system and i don't need to get all that at this point. plus i have no idea which lift will eventually make it onto here or if it will need a different crossmember or have clearance issues with certain skid designs...

 

right now i'm thinking the JCR is one of the cheapest with full engine/tranny coverage and so i might just do that as a temporary solution. if money was no object i'd get the the Artec full aluminum skid system, though the MetalCloak and TNT Customs setups are really nice too.

 

 

WHAT????? :eek: Sad day for sure (for us WJ owners that is ;)) Totally understand your reasoning. I really liked the JK's, but it was the initial cost that kept me from going that route. Like the new rig, and look forward to seeing the progression of it just like the WJ. Congrats

 

hopefully i can find a new owner for the WJ that won't just turn it into a complete beater or trailer queen!

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I have the Artec aluminum one. As a "free" bonus, it came with the cross member as well - the OEM one got beat quite a bit, especially on the passenger side. Same for the fuel tank OEM skid. The Artec goes over the original tank skid - no need to disassemble the tank (which I think is the case with some other brands). Plus the aluminum makes the whole thing really light. The front skid though covers so much, that (I suspect) can interfere with the tranny cooling. On mine, I drilled lots of 2" holes in it, which along with an aux oil cooler keeps my temp under 170 at all times. Prior to that it went north of 220.

 

I also like MetalCloak - that's what my runners are. But MC is not cheap at all. Back to the skids: I got mine from Northridge4x4, no taxes, free shipping, and was able to apply a 5% off coupon as well. PM me if you want the code - it worked on Artec, but not on MC.

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I have the Artec aluminum one. As a "free" bonus, it came with the cross member as well - the OEM one got beat quite a bit, especially on the passenger side. Same for the fuel tank OEM skid. The Artec goes over the original tank skid - no need to disassemble the tank (which I think is the case with some other brands). Plus the aluminum makes the whole thing really light. The front skid though covers so much, that (I suspect) can interfere with the tranny cooling. On mine, I drilled lots of 2" holes in it, which along with an aux oil cooler keeps my temp under 170 at all times. Prior to that it went north of 220.

 

I also like MetalCloak - that's what my runners are. But MC is not cheap at all. Back to the skids: I got mine from Northridge4x4, no taxes, free shipping, and was able to apply a 5% off coupon as well. PM me if you want the code - it worked on Artec, but not on MC.

 

interesting thoughts on the tranny temp issue, hmmm...

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flipped the steering stabilizer for clearance using the Rough Country relocation bracket. i went with the RC one because it works without any lift unlike some. also only $20 and 30 minutes, no need to overcomplicate anything!

 

here's a pic of the bracket from the Rough Country website, it mounts using the trackbar bolt and one new bolt into an existing hole:

 

rough-country-1108.jpg

 

i did swap out the supplied SAE bolt for a 10.9 grade metric one since everything else down there is metric from the factory.

 

pro-tip: use a ratchet strap with just a tiny bit of tension to keep the vehicle and axle aligned when you remove the track-bar bolt... then it should slide right back in - or if you need to ratchet it a click to line up the holes, it's easy peasy.

 

IMG_8340.JPG

 

 

here's the before/after shots showing how vulnerable the factory position was and the improvement:

 

IMG_8337.JPG

 

IMG_8347.JPG

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