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adriaanvn99

1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ Build

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I rebuilt my 4.0 block into a stroker last year. I needed the increased power to deal with the extra weight of my XJ, when driving in the mountains. I bought the parts kit from a shop in LA, that specializes in strokers and has build stroker racing engines for Jeepspeed XJs. Hoppers Automotive in Tempe bored and honed the block. And a friend did the assembly.

 

I had also called Golen. For their price for a stroker with a forged bottom end, I built mine with the Eldebrock head.

 

Great to know, thank you!

 

How have you found the stroker so far? No funny engine codes on the stock ECU?

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Great to know, thank you!

 

How have you found the stroker so far? No funny engine codes on the stock ECU?

 

The stroker as been smooth and strong. I did get engine codes last Saturday, that are related to misfires for cylinders 4 and 5. The usual root cause is the ignition system. I'm going to replace the coil pack (2001 w/ distributerless ignition) and swap the spark plugs for cylinders 4 & 5 with 1 & 2. Of the two sets of parts, the coil pack is the oldest. The spark plugs are a few years old.

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The stroker as been smooth and strong. I did get engine codes last Saturday, that are related to misfires for cylinders 4 and 5. The usual root cause is the ignition system. I'm going to replace the coil pack (2001 w/ distributerless ignition) and swap the spark plugs for cylinders 4 & 5 with 1 & 2. Of the two sets of parts, the coil pack is the oldest. The spark plugs are a few years old.

 

Glad you’re enjoying the Stroker! As I said it might still be a viable option for when I get to the engine decision stage on my XJ. Hope you get the codes sorted without major hassle!

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About 2 months ago I installed a Boostwerks NP242 linkage upgrade on the Jeep. The factory linkage was just old and worn and it would be a hassle to get it in and out of 4LO. When I installed it, for the life of me I was just not able to get the adjustment right. I tried varied lengths, different geometry but nothing seemed to work. I eventually got to the point where only 4 Part time and 4 Full time would engage, but it would not go into 4LO. I thought I would shoot Boostwerks an email to ask for advice, and he advised to set the linkage whilst it was in 4LO, instead of starting in 2WD like I was. So I got around to that today, and within 30 minutes I had a fully functioning transfer case again! This is the smoothest I’ve ever felt a transfercase shift, so I’m happy the trouble was worth it.

 

9B1F39B2-7EDC-4F32-827D-1709A28D2243.thumb.jpg.13ed066f406f83b008ea1ab128411248.jpg

 

I also had a Rubicon Express transfercase case drop lying around which I probably ordered about a year ago. I’m not a huge fan of these as it really is just a “band aid”, but I thought whilst I have it and I’m experiencing a slight driveline issue (grinding when decelerating) I might as well just give it shot whilst I decide on a SYE. The difference is night and day. There’s not even the slightest of vibration or noise whilst driving, so I can’t wait to see how the SYE and Tom Woods shaft will feel like.

 

B6E3BE9B-6A50-4C04-AA72-8202C84820BC.thumb.jpg.03cb10265bae2dc34565d1b07f2ce3a1.jpg

 

Whilst I was under there I was looking at doing a transfercase fluid drain and fill as I’ve heard that the 242 can be pretty picky with dirty and low fluid levels. To my surprise, I found that the 10mm Hex bolt had been stripped clean. There was a still a little bit of surface contact area left in the back, so I ground down the edge of a 11mm hex socket and deadblowed it in. I managed to break it free, hence the leaking beneath it. I’ve ordered 2 new Mopar plugs so I will be doing that Friday.

 

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Does anyone know what exact fluid the NP242 takes? It seems like from what I’ve read it was filled with DexIII/Merc at the Factory, so I bought some standard Valvoline DexIII/Merc, but apparently any ATF should work

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Does anyone know what exact fluid the NP242 takes? It seems like from what I’ve read it was filled with DexIII/Merc at the Factory, so I bought some standard Valvoline DexIII/Merc, but apparently any ATF should work
Your owners manual says Dex/MercIII but Chrysler later released this TSB saying to use atf4 http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_2101407.pdf

 

 

 

In general terms, If ATF+, ATF+2 or ATF+3 was the recommended fluid, it is now

recommended to use ATF+4.

BENEFITS

 

 

  • Better anti-wear properties
  • Improved rust/corrosion prevention
  • Controls oxidation
  • Eliminates deposits
  • Controls friction
  • Retains anti-foaming properties
  • Superior properties for low temperature operation

FLUID COLOR

Mopar ATF+4® has exceptional durability. However, the red dye used in ATF+4® is not

permanent; as the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4® also

has a unique odor that may change with age. With ATF+4® fluid, color and odor are no

longer indicators of fluid condition and do not necessarily support a fluid change.

 

Parts Required: Qty.Part No.DescriptionAR05013457AAFluid, Transmission, ATF+4® (Type 9602), QuartAR05013458AAFluid, Transmission, ATF+4® (Type 9602), GallonPolicy: Information Only

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Your owners manual says Dex/MercIII but Chrysler later released this TSB saying to use atf4 http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_2101407.pdf

 

 

 

In general terms, If ATF+, ATF+2 or ATF+3 was the recommended fluid, it is now

recommended to use ATF+4.

BENEFITS

 

 

  • Better anti-wear properties
  • Improved rust/corrosion prevention
  • Controls oxidation
  • Eliminates deposits
  • Controls friction
  • Retains anti-foaming properties
  • Superior properties for low temperature operation

FLUID COLOR

Mopar ATF+4® has exceptional durability. However, the red dye used in ATF+4® is not

permanent; as the fluid ages it may become darker or appear brown in color. ATF+4® also

has a unique odor that may change with age. With ATF+4® fluid, color and odor are no

longer indicators of fluid condition and do not necessarily support a fluid change.

 

Parts Required: Qty.Part No.DescriptionAR05013457AAFluid, Transmission, ATF+4® (Type 9602), QuartAR05013458AAFluid, Transmission, ATF+4® (Type 9602), GallonPolicy: Information Only

 

Awesome! Very valuable info thank you!

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Shakedown trip:

 

Headed out to Bulldog Canyon Friday afternoon, found a little spot to set up camp and was out this morning (Saturday) by sunrise. It’s not the hardest of trails (majority was done in 2WD) but I did go over some “obstacles” once or twice to test out 4LO and the locker in the front. The locker definitely made a big difference. There wasn’t even the slightest hesitation (even when one front wheel was off the ground). There was nothing noticeable either where something was wrong, but I’ll crawl under it later to inspect everything. All in all a a very quick yet fun trip!

 

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Some more pictures of a recent trip with a buddy in his JK...

 

EF3F62CB-4924-4173-9930-411B86236C16.thumb.jpg.13fe8040737101fe62fbd7247e5d70bf.jpg

DCA2591D-AA7E-4610-B7C6-7D1AF0AE15FD.thumb.jpg.7eb378ffcd22b82db185b1aba1da1130.jpg

IMG_1975.thumb.jpg.40d59dac32672bd6005949f7728796b7.jpg

66B2AD36-539C-41DB-8949-F5523E9E5057.thumb.jpg.0d92372a8ab4b4b8089f8d01afd39c02.jpg

 

Buddy's JK

 

Descent1.thumb.jpg.a0864fc9604716a25f895dd2205dcfcc.jpg

Hillclimb1.thumb.jpg.281917e31ad1a4977c52da61308c1cbe.jpg

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I haven't done Bulldog Canyon in years! It sure is a beautiful area and yeah, there's some decent places to try out your stuff. Great pics, thanks!

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