theksmith 3,667 Posted October 17, 2018 UPDATE: demo video of the finished product! ORIGINAL FIRST POST: i'm attempting to add an aftermarket security system with push-to-start, passive keyless entry (hands-free), and remote start into my 2016 Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited Rubicon. i already had the factory remote start option, and like any modern vehicle there's a basic OEM alarm feature. i think i have *most* of it figured out, but this is a work in progress... DISCLAIMER: messing around with the bits that keep your rig running while you're driving is a horribly dangerous idea. do so at your own risk! also, i can't take credit for the idea. "ulyssefreak1" over on wranglerforum.com already did this. however, his thread lacks critical details, so i'm doing my own writeup! why bother? 1) this is my daily driver and i always seem to have my hands full getting in our out. having both the push button start/stop and the passive entry together mean you never have to fiddle with a key or fob! 2) i loved how "factory" the start button looked in place of the mirror controls when i first saw the post on wranglerforum. 3) because it's just the sort of geeky thing Gadget needs - and just because i can (i think)! pieces parts the main thing here is the Easyguard EC002 alarm/PKE/push-button-start system which runs about $139. this is made-in-China but seems a notch above the similar ones from eBay, Alibaba, etc. alternative: the only real competition is Advanced Keys, which looks like a nice system. a vehicle interface (security bypass) module and related T-harness make for a much simpler and cleaner install, and may even be required depending on the rig. i used the same Omega OL-MDB-ALL module and Omega OL-HRN-CH5 harness that ulyssefreak1 did. the module is about $60 and the harness is going for around $30 but has been discontinued so it's getting harder to find. i also needed the Omega OL-LOADER (PC interface cable) for about $40 to program/flash the module. note that Omega/ADS/Excalibur are all the same company. alternative: a bypass/harness/programmer setup by Fortin or DEI should work as well. the Fortin EVO-CHRT5 package includes an EVO-ALL module and T-Harness that works with JK's, plus you'd need a Flashlink programmer. thus far, i've also needed a special time-delay relay, alarm siren, some resistors, and wire. i make all my connections using uninsulated ferrules crimped with the correct tool and then wrapped in marine heat-shrink. continued... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 18, 2018 flashing (not the fun kind) the Omega OL-LOADER is a USB to serial interface cable that lets you configure and flash firmware onto Omega modules. you need a PC with Windows to use it. go to http://www.omegaweblink.com/ in Internet Explorer, create a free account & login, install the weblink plugin and then connect the OL-LOADER to both your PC and your OL-MDB-ALL module. this is where i spent the most time on this project. there's no documentation and configuring some options affect things in a non-intuitive way! after trying a ton of combinations, here's what i came up with - at least for the current 3.6 firmware version and my 2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon with Sentry Key (SKIM) and factory remote start: choose "Flash by vehicle" and enter your year/make/model/etc. choose "Other" (bottom of the list) for what type of device you are interfacing with choose "Hardwired" for installation method for firmware version, i had 2 options that were both "current" (see screenshot below). Omega's support told me "it doesn't matter which you chose in this case", and indeed they both seemed to work equally well. then click on "Configure Features" support told me that with the hardwired install method, it shouldn't matter what i picked in the "Feature Selection" tab because those only turn on/off features for the data interface. however, in my own testing i found that a few of them DO matter! here were my final selections: a few important ones to note: -- "Aftermarket alarm ctrl from OEM remotes" had to be OFF or the Jeep would never start using the Easyguard. -- "Brake pedal stat output" also needed to be OFF or it died when i pressed the brake after a remote start. -- "Door stat output" needed to be ON so that the Jeep would turn off if i did a remote start and someone broke into it while it was running. -- i had "Tachometer output" set to ON, but i don't think it really mattered... again for MOST of these, the hardwire outputs always work even if you turn the feature off here. in the "Advanced Features" tab, i found that i needed to set "Disarm/unlock before start" to YES or else a single press of the Easyguard main button would not work. it seemed to just be a timing issue though because if i did not enable this feature, the remote start worked, as well as holding the main button down for 5 seconds. i'm still looking for a way around enabling this, because i think it's causing another minor issue (more on that later). -- i also found that "Take over" had to be set for "Normal take over". -- enabling "Force unlock all on first press" might be useful for some Jeeps. with my Rubicon, i left it disabled and could then still adjust the setting from the Jeep itself. at this point you can finally press the "FLASH!" button. it takes about 60 seconds. a popup may appear before it's done, just look for the status bar on the page to turn GREEN when it's really finished - then it's safe to unplug the module from the OL-LOADER cable. continued... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 18, 2018 next i needed to install the Omega module to finish setting it up. however, it makes sense to go ahead and disable the ignition/transmission interlock first. interlock disable this is what allows you to shift out of "Park" without a physical key present. note you still have to step on the brake before you can shift (and the Omega bypass module has to be there to simulate the ignition switch too). if you put the key into the Accessory or ON position, you can then remove the interlock plug from the ignition. there's a black plastic tab above the cable you must squeeze to unplug it (just like an electrical connector). this photo is looking up from underneath the steering wheel (after removing the plastic housing from the column): i zip-tied the interlock plug out of the way. you have to be sure the little yellow piece can still slide forward/backwards without getting hung up on anything. Omega harness & module install next i plugged the Omega T-harness into the ignition. the harness looks like this: i unplugged the factory ignition connector and the plug in the middle of the above picture went in its place. the removed factory plug connects to the little box on the Omega harness. here's the OEM plug you disconnect: the tab you need to squeeze to remove that plug is hard to get to. the factory box that the plug attaches to is fragile, be sure to support it while messing with the connector. mine also had a delicate wire coming out of the back side for the SKIM antenna which i had to be careful not to break. here's the Omega harness all connected up: i routed the other end of the harness on into the dash where i was going to mount the Omega bypass module. the Omega module connects to 4 of the 6 remaining harness plugs: Omega bypass module programming once the Omega module was plugged in, i had to perform the "INSTALLATION MODE SELECTION" step from the documentation (top of page 18 on the PDF i've attached here). i chose "Standard Hardwire Mode". OL-AL(MDB)-CH5-EN_20180717.pdf then i was able to program the module for my Jeep & its chip key. i followed the steps under "TYPE 1-4 & 6-8 - MODULE PROGRAMMING PROCEDURE" (also on page 18). finally the Omega module was ready to interface with my rig to lock/unlock doors, arm/disarm the factory alarm, and start/stop the vehicle - i just needed to connect it to the Easyguard system to tell it when to do those things. continued... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 18, 2018 wiring finally, the easy part! i had to connect the Easyguard harness wires to some pigtails that came with the Omega harness and module. beyond that, i only made 1 connection directly to the Jeep's wiring. there were a couple more optional ones that i decided not to do. the "TYPE 8 - WIRING DIAGRAM" on page 17 of the Omega instructions was my guide for this. i mainly just had to read the Easyguard manual to see exactly which color wires to use. Easyguard EC002 User Manual.pdf Easyguard EC002 Changes 2018.pdf from the Omega harness, i needed this pigtail with 6 pin connector for Omega connection F: then from the Omega module i needed this pigtail with 4 pin connector for Omega connection E: also from the module, the pigtail with 10 pin connector was needed: note there were a bunch of bundles of wires left over from the Omega packages that were not needed. the Easyguard EC002 system comes with 3 different pigtails (in addition to the button, keypad, and antenna wiring). i'll just call these the Easyguard 6P, 3P, and 20P (for how many pins each one's connector has). NOTES: FIRST/SECOND color notation means a wire that is mostly the FIRST color but has a stripe the SECOND color N/C means no connection. be sure to tape them off individually though so they don't short out against each other or the Jeep. all the connections labeled "COMMON GROUND" need to be hooked together in one big group. they do NOT need to be hooked to the vehicle directly (the Omega harness provides the actual ground). there are two Easyguard 6P large gauge RED wires. you can use either of them where mentioned below (because they are actually tied together inside the Easyguard module). first i made these connections... Omega harness 6P F, Black (Ground -Out) === COMMON GROUND Omega harness 6P F, Red/White (12v +Out) === Easyguard 6P, Red #1 (+12v In) *AND* Easyguard 20P, Blue (Oil/Fuel Pump +In) Omega harness 6P F, White/Red (Ignition +Out) === Easyguard 6P, White (Ignition #1 +In) *AND* Easyguard 6P, Orange (Accessory +In) Omega harness 6P F, Orange (Brake Pedal Status +Out) === *SEE DETAILS BELOW* Omega harness 6P F, Yellow/Red (Trunk Status -Out) === N/C Omega harness 6P F, Yellow/Black (Door Status -Out) === Easyguard 20P, Blue/Black (Door Status -In) Omega module 4P E, Blue/White (GWR -In) === Easyguard 3P, White (B, GWR -Out) Omega module 4P E, White === N/C Omega module 4P E, Black (Ground -In) === COMMON GROUND Omega module 4P E, Red (12v +In) === Easyguard 6P, Red #2 (+12v In) Omega module 10P, Green/Black (Lock/Arm -In) === Easyguard 20P, White (Door Locks Relay COM +/- In/Out) Omega module 10P, Blue/Black (Unlock/Disarm -In) === Easyguard 20P, White/Black (Door Locks Relay COM +/- In/Out) Omega module 10P, Red/White (Trunk -In) === N/C Omega module 10P, Brown === N/C Omega module 10P, Purple/Yellow === N/C Omega module 10P, Purple/Black === N/C Omega module 10P, White === N/C Omega module 10P, Black/White (Start +In) === Easyguard 6P, Yellow (Starter +Out) Omega module 10P, Green (E-Brake Status -Out) === N/C Omega module 10P, Purple/White (Tach +Out) === N/C after that i just had the following wires to still deal with: Easyguard 3P, Yellow (C, GWR Ground) === COMMON GROUND Easyguard 3P, Orange (A) === N/C Easyguard 20P, Orange (Brake Pedal Status +In) === *SEE DETAILS BELOW* Easyguard 20P, Brown (Parking Light +Out) === *SEE DETAILS BELOW* Easyguard 20P, Brown (Parking Light +Out) === *SEE DETAILS BELOW* Easyguard 20P, Yellow/Black (Door Locks Relay NC +/- In/Out) === COMMON GROUND Easyguard 20P, Orange/Black (Door Locks Relay NO +/- In/Out) === N/C Easyguard 20P, Yellow (Door Locks Relay NO +/- In/Out) === COMMON GROUND Easyguard 20P, Orange (Door Locks Relay NC +/- In/Out) === N/C Easyguard 20P, Pink (Factory Horn -Out) === *SEE DETAILS BELOW* Easyguard 20P, Gray (Door Locks or Dome Light +Out) === N/C Easyguard 20P, Black (Ground #1 -In) === COMMON GROUND Easyguard 20P, Black (Ground #2 -In) === COMMON GROUND Easyguard 20p, Green/Black (Trunk Release) === N/C Easyguard 20p, Green (Trunk Release) === N/C Easyguard 20p, Purple (Trunk Release) === N/C Easyguard 20P, White, Green, Red & Black group ending in 8 Pin Connector (GPS) === N/C IMPORTANT DETAILS: the Easyguard 20P, Orange (Brake Pedal Status +In) must be connected, but there are 2 options. the simplest is to connect it to the Omega harness 6P F, Orange (Brake Pedal Status +Out). however if you do this the system does NOT quite work as it should - you'd have to always either push the Engine Start/Stop button twice to start the car, or hold it down for 5 seconds. if you want things to work as designed, you need to connect directly to a factory wire. i spliced into the White/Tan wire coming from pin 6 of the Jeep's brake pedal switch. to get some slack in the factory wiring to work with, you have to either unhook its connector (which requires prying in 2 places for it to release) or just remove the entire switch temporarily. you can access it easier if you remove the metal panel that is under the steering column. so i ended up with: Easyguard 20P, Orange (Brake Pedal Status +In) === Jeep Brake Pedal, White/Tan (Brake Lamp Switch +Out) Omega harness 6P F, Orange (Brake Pedal Status +Out) === N/C the Easyguard 20P, Pink (Factory Horn -Out) does not have to be connected. without it, the factory horn WILL still beep when you lock the system (if you have that option enabled on the Jeep). however, there are several options on the Easyguard that use this direct horn output to try and beep a certain number of times for confirmation. therefore you likely want to at least hook this output to a little buzzer or 12 volt LED. you could also hook directly to one of the factory horns, but i don't know anywhere to tap into a wire inside the cabin for that. note this is a negative output so it goes on the ground side of whatever you are switching. it can only sink 300ma of current, which isn't much, so be careful what you hook to it. for example, you'd have to use a relay with this output to trigger a high wattage alarm siren. the two Easyguard 20P, Brown (Parking Light +Out) wires really don't need to be connected IMO. again, the lights can still flash when you lock/unlock based on the Jeep's settings. the main thing you're missing is that the Easyguard won't be able to flash the lights a bunch of time when a door is open. if you want that feature, there are a couple wires behind the passenger kick panel you could tap into. look for a big 34 pin connector and find the White/Orange (pin 1) and White/Violet (pin 5) wires. these are the driver and passenger side parking light +12V feeds. continued... 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jgaz 517 Posted October 19, 2018 Holy documentation, Batman! This tutorial will become the Bible for JK owners that want to do this mod. This thread raises “how to” to a whole new level. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 19, 2018 Holy documentation, Batman! This tutorial will become the Bible for JK owners that want to do this mod. This thread raises “how to” to a whole new level. haha - i know, longest write-up EVER! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 19, 2018 information i could have used yesterday! in case anyone else is actually doing this too, i should fast forward past a couple steps to when i plugged it all in for the millionth time, took a few test drives and got a fantastic surprise... sometimes the Jeep would just turn of while driving! it took me a few days, but i finally tracked down the problem. the Omega bypass module (current firmware anyway) has a setting for "module run time" which defaults to 45 minutes. after all, it's meant to be used for remote start applications where you'd eventually put your key in to drive. Omega support confirmed the default was also the maximum option and there was currently no way to extend that. a delayed solution i tried a bunch of things to see if i could keep the Omega module alive longer. eventually i gave up on that and just used resistors to simulate the ignition switch being turned to ON. i found that i needed a time-delay relay to connect them only after the Omega module finished its start procedure. i also had to ground the relay through the Easyguard GWR output so that it would only connect when the Easyguard wanted the Jeep to be running. according to the internets, the magic resistance value needed for the JK ignition here was either 600 or 610 Ohms. i used 3 common-value resistors in series to get close enough: 470 + 100 + 47 = 617 Ohms. i connected them all in a line, heat-shrunk that, then folded it back and forth into a little bundle and wrapped it all in heat-shrink again. the Ignition MUX wire is the unbundled Green/Red wire coming out of the small plastic box on the Omega harness: don't try and match my relay harness wire colors, i had moved the terminals around in this photo: continued... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jgaz 517 Posted October 19, 2018 haha - i know, longest write-up EVER! In a good way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 21, 2018 plugging stuff in the Easyguard manual says to set its DIP switches before giving it power. i set mine as all UP except #5, which needed to be DOWN for automatic transmission. i had already plugged in the Omega harness (A, B, C, D connectors) to the Omega module. so i just needed to take those 3 pigtails that i wired to the Easyguard harnesses and plug those into the Omega harness and module like so: here's a shot of my 99% "final" harness setup, just before i installed it for the (hopefully) last time: of course you need to also plug in all 3 antennas, the start/stop button, and optionally the keypad. i installed that button in the same spot as ulyssefreak1, in place of the power mirror controls - and moved those controls to where the 12v outlet was, and then installed a new outlet inside my center console. below is a shot of the factory bezel. the odd-shaped hole on the left has to be re-created on the right side, then the left side hole only needed some minor shaping to fit the start/stop button. alternatively, you can just buy a bezel with the weird hole already on the right side: part #1RH94DX9AC. on the back side i used the little clip and double-sided tape disc that came with the button to help keep it in place. i placed the front PKE antenna out of site by sticking it on the top of the upper trim that sits just inside the windshield. i didn't want to stick it to the glass since that needs replacing often on a Wrangler! the high frequency remote antenna went behind the a-pillar trim. the rear PKE antenna got placed directly on the hard-top, just behind the rear-most driver side window, about half way up. i had it at the top to start with but it seemed to work better lower. i stuck the capacitive keypad on the rear side window near the antenna. it functions just fine behind the factory tint, but i did have to extend the 4 conductor cable to get it that far from the Easyguard module. continued... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,667 Posted October 22, 2018 settings besides the DIP switches, there are several settings/modes you can change on the Easyguard via brake pedal and key-fob button sequences. i adjusted 2 of them right away: i had to change the Easyguard's cranking time to it's maximum of 1.8 seconds to get the timing right with the Omega bypass module. before doing this, the Jeep would only start if i held the engine start/stop button down for 5 seconds. the procedure is in the manual: "25. Parameter time prolong setting" then "1. Enter parameter setting status" then "4. Starting time( Cranking time) prolong setting", and finally be sure to do "5. Exit the parameter setting". i also used "Turn off central door locking automation" from the manual section "13. Central door locking automation". the Jeep already locks doors when you hit 15 MPH and then has the option whether to unlock all or one when you open a door from the inside, so i felt letting the Easyguard try to lock them automatically after a set time would just complicate things. install over! i think that wraps up all the major points of the install - woot! i should probably post my impressions of the system as a whole, including some pros/cons - but i'll wait till its been installed a little longer to see how things go. i'll try to make a short demo video soon though. please post up if anyone else conquers this, especially if you find a better way to do something. a parting shot, from about half way through when i was nearly ready to send it all back Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
