Jump to content
matts74

Jeep JK CrimeStopper Teleconnect Remote Start

Recommended Posts

Before I begin here, I want to call out Kris, theksmith, for all the detailed documentation provided on this thread:

 

 

https://offroadpassport.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5514

 

 

I used this as a reference in this build and Kris was super supportive and helpful

 

 

I started my build with a few different goals and components than Kris used.

 

1) I got the Easyguard 002-k-ns: this unit is identical to the 002-k but comes with a shock sensor in place of the 3pin easy-guard connector that supplies the bypass unit with Ground When Running. Ground when running is critical to tell the immobilizer bypass to allow the remote start. (not important to this thread)

 

2) I have both the omega bypass unit with t-cable Kris used and fortin evo-all (CHR.T5). My goal is to use the Fortin, and document the connection and configuration for everyone. There is an advanced feature with the fortin that may be an advantage (see #3)

 

3) I have a crimestopper mobile phone based remote start, "Teleconnect" that utilizes the serial data bus for connection to the bypass module. The omega uses the serial port with hardwire install to have GWR in available. Advanced feature of the fortin EVO. It does not repurpose the data port for anything and offers both hardwire and data port install together.

 

 

I followed Kris's instructions on the main thread to get the easyguard installed, and I am just going to outline 2 key differences:

 

 

-I used 12v directly to the tach wire on the easyguard as opposed to the omega tach output

-I had to use a relay to get ground while running off of the ignition wires per the easyguard documentation

 

 

For the add on, I selected the fortin and planned to have it be tied directly to the ignition ahead of the omega. So I removed the omega and simply worked with the Fortin to get it functioning with the crimestopper.

 

 

First I had to configure the fortin for the jeep. Using the Fortin manual as my guide, paying close attention to the settings:

 

evo-all_ig_thr_bi_chr-skreem_wrangler_e_63881.pdf

 

Additionally, to make the Crimestopper work I added C1, D1, D1.11 - Crank 20S (disabling D1.10 "Lock-Lock-Lock"), D1.6, D2, H2 "fortin", and a few settings in section A1, A3, A7, A8, A9, and A13 (note, some of these are not on in the photos; push to start was also added)

 

image1.jpeg.21833620a969b7126b8f2560d28de880.jpeg

image2.jpeg.f03c6603e0b85dd37b49b92e651b1e58.jpeg

image3.jpeg.3879e2012a0e2fd9e14f81e669d1ee88.jpeg

 

Then I programed the module and made it ready to use in the jeep. The only wires that need connection are the ignition wires (yellow from T-Harness and yellow from Fortin 20pin). The wires are just connected directly together

 

Once this was completed I added the fortin to the Jeep per the instructions (remember I took the omega out for this phase of installation). Fortin describes the bypass key programming in the manual I attached (its easy).

 

 

Now once The Fortin is ready for use, and acts as a bypass I connected the EVO-ALL per the instructions to the CrimeStopper and programmed it (see page 30):

 

 

mycar_installation_guide_20171109.pdf

 

 

There is a good video describing this process as well:

 

 

From there its as easy as downloading an app on your phone from the app store and copying over a SerialNumber from the crimestopper in to the app. You will need an account with MyCar first (this is free). Make sure you assign "fortin" to the protocol when you add the serial number. The appface can be customized to the car make, model, and color.

 

 

 

IMG_1701.PNG.36148a0cc55df084b20df136c25f877c.PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As a follow up. I reinstalled the Omega/Easyguard in behind the Fortin (tied to the ignition).

 

How does it all work?

 

The Good:

 

  • MyCar Remote Staring / Locking/ Unlocking is flawless, I am also able to check the car's location via gps from anywhere.
  • A quick call to fortin gave me the information I needed - the footbrake output is what tells the Fortin to allow takeover to the key or in my case the omega/easyguard
  • Takeover of the ignition happens when I get in the car, after a teleconnect remote start, and go through the easy guard motions to press the brake and start the car.
  • The best part is that the remote start countdown timer on the MyCar app stops and zero's out. this was my first clue that handoff to what the crimestopper/fortin thought was a key in the ignition, but was really the easyguard/omega, had happened.

The ehhh? but ok:

 

  • If I do a remote unlock from the fortin/crimestopper, the omega/easyguard behaves like I used the factory key. This behavior is detailed in the easyguard thread (theksmith's thread), so I sort of expected it.

 

Essentially the combo is flawless. In consideration of the original plan to only use a Fortin EVO-ALL with t-harness, I may not try this. The system works as I want it to right now with the two bypass units working toghether and handoff between the crimestopper and the main system being fairly seemless (short of the above). I'm not sure that he fortin/crimestopper/easyguard together would be any different, and I'm actually concerned that the handoff may not work as well as it does with the two units (Fortin and Omega) working in tandem as they are now.

 

What remains to be done:

 

Enable the seat warming function in the fortin and turn on the aux feature on mycar - not that I really care in Phoenix

 

Maybe try to add an Aux relay feature for lighting from the Fortin/MyCar app

Finish the key cutting and mounting in to my easyguard fobs so I don't have to carry a jeep key at all anymore

Stay cool in the summer here in Phoenix

 

If anyone has any questions please feel free to reach out.

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

excellent work - and thanks for documenting it all here!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FYI for anyone looking at getting one of these cellular/smartphone based remote-starts: as of now (4/2019) the current models from Linkr, Car-Link, Tele-Connect, Autolink, and MyCar are all the same thing, so you may just want to get whichever is cheapest. they all use the AT&T 4G network and all say Model VS-4LU on the sticker on the bottom. i don't know if any particular company offers better support than another.

 

search for ASCL6 on Amazon...

or search for LINKR-LT2...

 

however, note that the ASCL4, ASCL5, LINKR-LT, LINKR-LT1, LINKR-M1, ASCLBT, ASCLBTLR or anything referencing Verizon, 3G, or 2G are older/different products. also the SmartStart (Viper/Clifford/DEI) is an entirely different product and service.

 

311ae1mFR5L.jpg

 

VOXX actually owns most of the brands that sell these (like Omega, Code-Alarm, Audiovoxx, etc.). however it seems like a canadian company, Automobility Distribution, owns the MyCar brand and that is who creates the apps and back-end services than run these devices.

 

you can probably even use any of the 3 branded apps interchangeably. i actually bought an Omega Linkr-LT2 but successfully registered it through the MyCar app.

 

MyCar Controls Android App...

CarLink 6 Android app...

Linkr LT Android app...

 

they are all the same exact app with different branding (same version & release date even). at some point in the future, some might offer differences in services or pricing, but right now they are all $39.95/yr or $99.95 for 3 years and include the GPS location and remote-start/lock features.

 

DpLYSXd6LsVtbKhXRzexM_DwwUUo0YIOLsuDLHtr-p1KlpSmBoBfpFpBIbWjGgDcow=s400

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You took the plunge? I have used it 3 or 4 days already. You are going to be happy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You took the plunge? I have used it 3 or 4 days already. You are going to be happy.

 

yup - those days we already had over 90* reminded me i wanted to get it done before full-on summer arrives. :eek:

 

i didn't take apart the dash yet, but popped open the steering column and hooked this up temporarily to test. i also messed with the EVO-ALL a bit to see if it will be a good replacement for the Omega unit for anyone else installing an Easyguard system. more info to come on that soon, and i've got a couple tricks up my sleeve with this MyCar system. ;)

 

gGqCnvhZRvDWS0GsA-hIxvJOxcvs6juPj56LSslK_HIIFWCmkNwfgRhZWOz218iaOUO4CnbsTmLl8w_vjClaqnImU_v3NOACM-sGihPkONVf8p_TQPufT0sxFXjLd68CtvezNXk0AABWOzsU-9CkHLZCNIVFljCBswvceMx4ZVtr_g0MWOSHs3oiJUKguwfvYToDnLRFSIzy3shQ9bJ343SMid-peNa0WTwq2TdDuRmR50mXpVSKWmXsPAQkTzx7VvC331bi5btF7haeMfuG0LcrnKF4teExvEAXw4AbhfI0dNS4-wHH8bmYLaCE0IPCrFDprL-bItLC6D04OZJlnvpDXx_rOrwT0fwiACaOeqh-Vf-EySef2o5R7aMu3872YLvx_7JBwfsoSxhk7FKgndZV6hsmLmqwZqn5GNRKm3RAvfZyj901upyEZQ0OBYQY7bcOoJx90A6DdbKsWgXQHX9or49K8DcXyZTT_tQRi-1UGXxRIdOdoi9mWC2abJfAwDG8B-93liO1epChPuBJXHw16YFzj1bDh9h2c1C5XwwEFSi8bRQgVEQbhAhwa70eVzEA9gR9Bni096duLTc7VH-vAWtfyEUKAH-7HVBD-n-kL15YKb2xx91dL9JgpQrHN5c3bTuTUXxWRsZxxi-YyklWCP81PF0Q_RG-MzhA4bCt-Smg1eoX2bJ1L7OgHN9GTDMBoBraaa4b4yzDlxluVYqSGw=s800

 

a question for you...

 

normally i press the brake pedal and then the Easyguard PTS button will start the engine... however, if i remote-start with my phone then pressing the brake pedal kills the engine immediately. therefore, i have to hold the Easyguard PTS button down for 5 seconds in order to get it to do the "takeover" from the EVO-ALL (after which i can then press the brake pedal without it dying).

 

is this how your install is working as well?

 

oh, and did you run a wire from the engine bay back inside to hook the horn to the Tele-Connect yellow alarm triggered input wire - or find an easier way?

 

thanks in advance!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My install works exactly like that - so once its started by the Crimestopper the take over is completed by pressing the easyguard start button until it turns green.

 

 

A little more detail - fortin tech explained to me that by default the evo-all is designed to use the brake signal high as the input to tell the unit to deactivate. Not only was this what I anticipated as a behavior it was my indicator that everything was working properly once I connected the two units through to the ignition.

 

 

The horn function was optional, and I am not one for extra noise - I didn't do the connection, but I suspect that you'd need a relay as the jeep connection to the horn is pull to ground and that signal wire is expecting 12v.

 

 

Super excited for you. I started mine from inside the saloon at crown king this weekend, and walked out to a nice cool interior.

 

 

Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for confirming Matt, and thanks also for being the guinea pig on this whole setup! ;) knowing it was going to be a fast install made for an easy decision to go ahead and purchase.

 

FYI, the horn connection on the linkr/tele-connect doesn't trigger any noise, it's just there to sense when the horn has been beeping for 10 seconds or more in which case you then get a push notification on your phone that your alarm is going off. it could also connect to the siren output on an aftermarket alarm instead if you had one (using a relay to invert the negative output as you mentioned).

 

there's nowhere inside the cabin on the JK that can easily be used to sense if the horn is currently honking or if the factory alarm is currently tripped. instead you'd need to connect to the horn driver output of the TIPM. it's actually a positive output, so that's good, but you'd have to run a wire through the firewall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s my pleasure. I love tinkering as it appears you do too.

 

I’m actually Sidetracked on 2 other project that may interest you. Headliners but I saw your post. Opted for Mopar and noise barrier (noico9. And Just got a backup camera (I have 35” tires and can’t see well out of the back with my hardtop). Got a decent deal on alpine brake light camera. Will start another thread with install of that.

 

Once that stuff is done I’ll revisit the horn connection. I may pull the wire off my existing output as you suggest. I also want to use the trunk release on the easyguard fob to turn off/on some lights. Just a latching relay but need to find the time. It’s not that bad but not in the heat. First I want the headliner and noise barrier done.

 

Where are you located in the valley? Let’s meet up one of these days and trade some ideas on additional projects.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That’s my pleasure. I love tinkering as it appears you do too.

 

I’m actually Sidetracked on 2 other project that may interest you. Headliners but I saw your post. Opted for Mopar and noise barrier (noico9. And Just got a backup camera (I have 35” tires and can’t see well out of the back with my hardtop). Got a decent deal on alpine brake light camera. Will start another thread with install of that.

 

Once that stuff is done I’ll revisit the horn connection. I may pull the wire off my existing output as you suggest. I also want to use the trunk release on the easyguard fob to turn off/on some lights. Just a latching relay but need to find the time. It’s not that bad but not in the heat. First I want the headliner and noise barrier done.

 

Where are you located in the valley? Let’s meet up one of these days and trade some ideas on additional projects.

 

i'm way up near I-17 & Carefree Hwy, but yeah i'd be down to meet up for drinks or coffee sometime!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...