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4x4tographer

"Oki": 4x4tographer's 2018 Jeep JLUR

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A little convenience upgrade install!

 

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On 12/26/2021 at 7:50 PM, 4x4tographer said:

A little convenience upgrade install!

 

h3U4BfD.jpg

RA9v1CR.jpg

Very nice. I'd like to know how these hold up for you and @theksmith after a few months of use. I have read a variety of things, some good and some bad.  One thing I read was they throw the hood out of alignment. I am not sure how that's possible, but I am sure a determined person can make that happen.

Edited by shellback91
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No trail riding, but got to experience how Oki performed in the snow. We spent the  week in Greer and we had a pretty decent storm dump 12-14” of snow on us.

 

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Was able to help out 2 different motorists that got stuck in the snow in their FWD SUVs. The Amazon X-Bull Traction Mats did the trick to get them some much needed grip. They held up well despite some pretty aggressive wheel spin. 

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Had an awesome time out with the ORP crew running to Burro Creek from Nothing, AZ for the 2022 Holiday Party.

 

Tailgunning a group ride is always a lot of fun!

 

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On 10/18/2021 at 8:11 AM, 4x4tographer said:

 

The body of the JL is surprisingly not just straight lines. There are subtle curves on the rockers, rear hatch, etc... which become more noticeable when you set something straight right next to it.

 

 

This fact is lost on the far majority of Jeep owners. For being a brick on wheels, the Wrangler and Gladiator are both surprisingly curvy. The Jeep designers put a lot of effort into this. And this is why many (most?) aftermarket exterior parts (bumpers, sliders, etc...) bug me, the clash of hard angles and straight lines on what is a curvy body with, from the factory, not one hard edge to be found. It's like some dude wearing a brown sports coat with green pants.

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4 minutes ago, SonoranWanderer said:

 

This fact is lost on the far majority of Jeep owners. For being a brick on wheels, the Wrangler and Gladiator are both surprisingly curvy. The Jeep designers put a lot of effort into this. And this is why many (most?) aftermarket exterior parts (bumpers, sliders, etc...) bug me, the clash of hard angles and straight lines on what is a curvy body with, from the factory, not one hard edge to be found. It's like some dude wearing a brown sports coat with green pants.

 

Truth. During my install of the Teraflex Alpha HD Tailgate Reinforcement, I found that even the "flat tailgate" actually is curved as well.

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A quick 15min project this sunny Saturday. Added on a wind jammer screen behind the rear seats. This should help to cut down on the wind buffeting the kids when we're cruising with the top down.

 

This particular wind jammer by Rampage is designed to pair up with a cargo cover as well and has a zipper to mate the two together.

 

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Edited by 4x4tographer
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Some recent progress updates:

 

Installed a Rusty's Offroad Xtreme Stubby Trail Bumper on the rear, ditching the big bulky factory bumper for something pretty "extreme" in the clearance department. 😆

 

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Next up will be to install some corner guards from Rusty's Offroad to help protect the exposed sheet metal on the rear corners and clean up the look. I might install some Xpel film here and there to black out any of the red body work. Hoping to knock out that project some time this week.

 

 

Also did a little project with my wife's vinyl cutter, cutting out some fun "Balrog" decals for the hood in the original Rubicon font.

 

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Finished up the install of Rusty's Offroad rear corner guards to help protect the exposed tub and pinch seam. Drilling into the tub is not a fun process, but the overall install is very straightforward. Measure 6 times, drill once. 😅

 

The top row of bolts utilize nutserts as there is no way to access the backside of those panels. The lower row goes straight through the pinch seam. The biggest PITA in the process is getting your fingers around the backside of a few of the panels adjacent to the pinch seam to get the nuts on to the end of the bolts.

 

 

Drilling holes - an unnerving process. The top row of holes needed to be an oddball 25/64 for the supplied nutserts. Installing the nutserts was a breeze, thanks to a handy rivet/nutsert tool that @theksmith let me borrow (thanks man!!!)

 

I hit each hole with some automotive clear coat to help prevent the possibility of rust. In the future I might go back in lay down some Xpel film, just in case some sand or grit decides to make it behind the guards.

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Guards installed. Once you get the holes drilled and the nutserts installed, the rest of the process takes about 10 minutes.

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Completed booty shot:

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And of course: "It's always something!"

 

As I was reinstalling the bumper, the VERY LAST bolt was apparently booger'd up about 1/2 way through. It became fairly tight and I made the mistake of giving it a good uggadugga, snapping the frame nut off. The frame nuts on the rear bumper are apparently "pressed" into the bolt holes on the frame, with maybe a tack weld. Not exactly strong enough to stand up to rotational torque. This failed and now I've got 1 loose bolt on my passenger side bumper. 

 

There's no way to access the interior of the frame with the bumper mounted, and you can't take it off with a bolt still inserted (of course!) 

 

The solution seems to be to cut off the bolt head, push it into the frame, remove the bumper, and install a new bolt/nut. 

 

In the below photo, it's the top frame nut that snapped off of the frame.

 

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Now that I look at the image, there might be a small access opening on the left side of that frame rail, behind the crossmember. I'll have to crawl under the Jeep and take a look to see if I can get a pair of channel locks in there.

 

More to come!

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