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theksmith

On-Board Fresh Water & Hot Shower (in a Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited)

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On 2/4/2020 at 7:12 PM, jgaz said:

I love the use of the fuel door to cover the water fill cap. Genius!
 

No worry about resale.  Most will think it has duel tanks!🤣

 

I didn’t realize the brushless Ryobi Drill had a threaded insert to accept a side handle.  My old non brushless drill doesn’t have the ability to use a handle.  

 

if you’re ever in need of  a hole saw for one time use, and don’t want to buy it, hit me up if the needed size is below about 3 1/2”?  
I have a large assortment of various sizes that I’ll loan you.

Agreed Jim...  Nicely done ;)

PS:  Kris,  I also have a decent assortment of hole saws...  Just in case the mood strikes again... ;)

 

PS, PS   Welds don't need to look professionally done if they do thier intended task of holding stuff together... ;)

Edited by ob1jeeper
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this weekend's rock crawl was brutal to my undercarriage...

 

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the good news is my water tank bracket/skid seemed to have survived the beating with nothing but a few paint scratches (unlike my DS boot)!

 

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i'm nearly done adding the heat exchanger and related stuff, more on that (plus a couple minor tweaks) coming soon!

 

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i swapped out the Amarine-Made 12v pump for a Seaflo 21 Series with adjustable cut-off pressure (model SFDP1-012-035-2, specs here...)

 

the Amarine-Made had a fixed 35PSI cut-off which caused a brief but powerful surge of water when you first pressed the sprayer trigger. the Seaflo's cut-off is adjustable down to 17PSI, which made a noticeable reduction in that initial surge. the Amarine-Made was also annoyingly loud. the Seaflo is quieter and comparable in sound to the much more expensive Shurflo i used in my previous vehicle.

 

for only $10 more, i definitely recommend the Seaflo.

 

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Edited by theksmith

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Posted (edited)

hot water!

 

i sketched out a plumbing diagram for the whole system (just the fill-hose and breather line aren't shown):

 

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an under-hood photo showing the heat exchanger which is spliced into the heater core return line.

 

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i might should have gone with a 20 plate exchanger. the 10 plate isn't efficient enough to heat up the water to an acceptable shower temp *until* the engine gets to around 180*. the only problem with that is the JK's 3.6L takes a good 15 minutes to get that warm from a cold start if it's just sitting still idling.

 

the heat exchanger is just zip tied on, but that seems to be holding it in place just fine.

 

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for reference, the bottom (passenger side) aluminum line in this "before" photo is the heater core return. i disconnected the rubber hose coming to it near the firewall to splice in the heat exchanger.

 

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one item not shown in the diagram above is the coolant bleed/fill valve that i added. since all of this new stuff is higher than the radiator fill, air bubbles would be trapped in the lines without some way to bleed from the highest point.

 

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the thermostatic mixing valve was placed under the front wiper cowl next to the pump.

 

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it's not something that would need to be adjusted often, but i can access it with the hood open if necessary.

 

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when water sits in the heat exchanger for a while, it can reach the full engine operating temp (over 200*). so the thermostatic mixing valve is needed to provide a consistent "warm" output, regardless of how hot the engine is or how fast/slow the water moves through the exchanger. it does this by dynamically blending the cool tank water with the hot water from the exchanger.

 

another issue i encountered: because the "cool" line coming from the tank runs above the engine/trans/t-case, the water inside it was heating up to the point that that the mixing valve couldn't do its job and i was getting a brief initial pulse of scalding water from the sprayer. the solution was to insulate the cool line where it ran through the tunnel. i used common foam pipe insulation tubing and then wrapped that with aluminum duct tape.

 

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one final thing to note is that i have some "straight" and some tapered/conical thread fittings. these shouldn't normally be mixed, but can be made to work just fine in this low-pressure application... for any joint, if the female side is a straight thread ("pipe"/IPS/G/BSP/"shower") then use a rubber washer and if the female side is tapered (NPT), use teflon tape.

 

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shopping list for this part of the project:

 

 

Edited by theksmith
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Female side.. I like it

discussing weird science GIF

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Posted (edited)

finishing touch:

 

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Edited by theksmith
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Very “clean” installation.  😉

 

A lot of  thought went into this project, as usual

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12 hours ago, jgaz said:

Very “clean” installation.  😉

 

A lot of  thought went into this project, as usual

Ditto Jim... ;)

 

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