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Trail Toy

Proudly introducing "NO RAGRETS", before/after pics & more...

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Got all my new lights wired up and mounted so I'm ready to light up my path on night runs.  The 2 amber lights on the bumper will stay mounted permanently, the 6 round spot/flood lights will only be mounted when doing night runs.  I wired the 6 lights with plugs so they are easily removed when not needed, figured it's best this way so there's less likely a chance of damaging them when most of my off roading will be during the day and the lights aren't needed.  The rear 2 are mounted on a bracket that clamps to the trailer hitch, in the pic the bracket isn't clamped all the way, just on there enough for taking a pic.

 

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Now that we're coming into summer and extreme heat hear in AZ I've been thinking of ways to try and keep my rig cool considering it sits on the side of my house in direct sunlight most of the day.  I also noticed the roof puts off a decent amount of heat, even on days that aren't that hot, while out having fun because of the direct sunlight.  After doing some searching around I came across a product called Lanco Ultra Siliconizer roof coating.  I found other roof coatings along with this brand and did research on several different kinds and came to the conclusion this one would be best suited for my needs.   Yesterday I painted one coat, let it dry/cure for 24 hours and painted another coat today.  It's amazing how much of a HUGE difference it makes!  Today when I opened the door I could immediately tell the interior temp was significantly cooler than what I'm used to after a few hours of my rig sitting in direct sunlight.  The side of my hardtop where it's still black (more like faded black) was so hot I couldn't leave my hand on it for more than a few seconds.  When I touched the top outside and inside it was barely warm!  Insulation kits for JKU's start around $250 and go up to well over $300, I spent $30 for a 1 gallon can at Home Depot and about 1.5 hours of my time and I'm good to go.  I still have 3/4 of the 1 gallon left over too.  Now I know it's not exactly pretty to look at but this isn't about looks, it's about functionality.

 

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That's interesting stuff - I'd imagine you can use it on the roof of an RV or trailer too, yeah?

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Yes, it's meant for several different kinds of roofs including sheds, mobile homes, etc. and can be painted on lots of different types of surfaces. 

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Posted (edited)

Don't you hate it when...  You think you need to replace a part on your rig and it turns out you don't!  🙄

 

A while back it appeared that I needed to replace my steering stabilizer, it seemed like it had just a slight hint of play/slack.  Last week I ordered a new Teraflex stabilizer from Amazon.  This morning I took the stock one off only to notice that it's just as hard, if not harder, to push and pull it back and forth as the new Teraflex and the new one was about 1.5" shorter.  I also noticed when removing the stock one that the bolt on the bracket attached to the tie rod was almost finger loose.  I reinstalled the stock stabilizer and made sure to wrench down hard, especially on the tie rod bracket bolt and there's no play/slack at all.  

Edited by Trail Toy
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Posted (edited)

Today I installed my new MORryde hinges and spare tire carrier.  All in all it was a fairly straight forward install that went mostly smooth until the end.  Last thing to do was install the OEM 3rd tail light, 4 screws with plastic spacers, piece of cake, right?  WRONG!  The 4 screws included with the kit were too short and narrow, when attempting to install them they would just turn inside the holes of the 3rd tail light.  It was like they stripped out but the reality is they were too small.  I spent more time sifting through my tackle box of hardware to find screws that would work than it took for me to install the carrier itself.  But in the end I found beefy screws that fit nice and tight...  WOO!  HOO!

 

Old carrier removed and 5 strips of duct tape applied to keep the tailgate in place.  The duct tape also acts as way to show if the tailgate moves while changing out the hinges, the tape would show wrinkles, etc., if the gate moved, mine stayed in place.  Changing one hing at a time also helps to keep the gate from moving.

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First hing installed.  For both hinges I opted to use the old hardware on the 2 inside holes as it was easier with the torx versus the included allen head screws.  The single outside hole you have no choice but to use the allen head as there's not enough room to get in there with a torx.

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2 inside holes with original hardware.

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Single outside hole with included hardware.

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Second hing installed.

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Spare tire carrier and 3rd tail light installed.

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Edited by Trail Toy
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Looks good! Does the spare tire rest against/make good contact with the bump stops like the OEM carrier?

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, shellback91 said:

Looks good! Does the spare tire rest against/make good contact with the bump stops like the OEM carrier?

 

Unfortunately no but with my OEM carrier it did not either because of the backspacing of my wheels.  This new carrier actually pushed the spare out another inch so now I have a bigger gap to deal with at some point.  I can tell with the new hinges and carrier everything is a lot more solid/sturdy.

Edited by Trail Toy
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1 hour ago, Trail Toy said:

 

Unfortunately no but with my OEM carrier it did not either because of the backspacing of my wheels.  This new carrier actually pushed the spare out another inch so now I have a bigger gap to deal with at some point.  I can tell with the new hinges and carrier everything is a lot more solid/sturdy.

 

$8 and you're fixed (link)

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Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, 4x4tographer said:

 

$8 and you're fixed (link)

 

I was trying to remember how you did that, thanks! 👍

 

This also reminded me, Sarah has a walker from when her ankle was healing, I'm gonna have to get it down from the rafters and see if I can cut the legs off that have the rubber tips and basically do the same thing. 😎

 

Edited by Trail Toy
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