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JK Headlight Adjustment

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After reading various things and watching a couple of videos on adjusting headlight aim I have a question. Nothing I have read takes lift size into consideration when mentioning how high to run an indicator, like a length of blue tape for example, across a wall or fence. Does the lift size matter and that is why it is not mentioned? How far back from what you are aiming should you be? For reference I have  a 2" lift and am running 33's. 

 

 

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for up/down adjustment, i've always heard mark the centerline on a wall the same height as the center of your headlights, then backup about 25ft and make sure the upper cutoff of the lights is slightly below that line. that way you know they are aiming down at least. as far as how much below the line they should be, advise varies greatly:

 

"manufacturer's recommendations can vary as well — GM calls for zero variance between the center of the beam and the headlight's centerline, while Toyota allows 1/2" variance. Chrysler allows for as much as 2-6 inches, while Nissan specs are as much as 3 1/2" variance."

 

however, none of that takes into account the overall height of the headlights like you asked about - it's just basically saying every vehicle's headlights should slope downward at some specific angle (depending on car brand). realistically, the more lifted your rig, the more they could slope down to achieve the same lit-up distance in front of you as would a non-lifted rig. if you find something that quantifies that distance, or somehow otherwise considers your overall headlight height within the calculation, please do share!

 

hell, just finding a wall with a 25ft perfectly level lot in front of it is a challenge!

 

just as a reference - i'm at 5" of lift on 37's and my pro-comp LED lights have a very well defined cutoff. i have them aiming down about 2" below center at a rough distance of 25ft. i don't get flashed by oncoming drivers and still feel the visible distance at night is decent.

 

 

 

Edited by theksmith
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also somewhat related, the euro JK's have a horizontal adjustment screw instead of just a vertical one. we actually have a screw there too, but it lacks the torx hole in the head. the easiest fix (if you feel you need left/right adjustment) is to use a Dremel to put a slot in that screw's head.

 

see here for photos...

 

or you can swap in the actual euro adjuster screw, see the write-up here...

Edited by theksmith
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Thank you Kristoffer, I am on the hunt for a wall with a level parking lot and 25' to work.

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