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theksmith

What did you do to your rig today?

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1 hour ago, shellback91 said:

I also tried and failed big time to calibrate my Staun deflators. One worked okay but  I wound up really jackin' one up and the rest are just not cooperating. I am going to research further but I may just replace them because they pissed me off and I do not trust 3 of 4. 🤬 Such is life I suppose.  

It's hard to say what's wrong without actually being there, but we've dialed in several sets of Stauns and they perform flawlessly. G says he gets the first one set, and then he can pre-set all of them by making them the same height, and then fine tuning each one. He says he does fine tuning on the spare, re-filling it back to full pressure in between tries. It's good if you have a big compressor.  If you want, bring them to the Holiday party and he'll bring them here and set them for you, mail them to you. 😬

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2 hours ago, dzJeepChic said:

It's hard to say what's wrong without actually being there, but we've dialed in several sets of Stauns and they perform flawlessly. G says he gets the first one set, and then he can pre-set all of them by making them the same height, and then fine tuning each one. He says he does fine tuning on the spare, re-filling it back to full pressure in between tries. It's good if you have a big compressor.  If you want, bring them to the Holiday party and he'll bring them here and set them for you, mail them to you. 😬

Thanks @dzJeepChic. I've got a couple that are sticking, one came apart. I put it back together but it's just not right. I am gonna give it another crack and if they do not cooperate I will order another set. If I can't trust them I do not want to use them. I will let you know either way before the party.

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On 12/31/2020 at 4:41 PM, dzJeepChic said:

It's hard to say what's wrong without actually being there, but we've dialed in several sets of Stauns and they perform flawlessly. G says he gets the first one set, and then he can pre-set all of them by making them the same height, and then fine tuning each one. He says he does fine tuning on the spare, re-filling it back to full pressure in between tries. It's good if you have a big compressor.  If you want, bring them to the Holiday party and he'll bring them here and set them for you, mail them to you. 😬

@dzJeepChic I finally found something that helped me "fix" the one I jacked up.  I was able to get the rest dialed in using my spare tire too, I think. Once I had them where I wanted them I tightened the 💩 outta them then wrapped the lock ring and cap in electrical tape for good measure. Looks half assed but I don't care and hopefully they wont come loose again. 🤣 

 

I will test them out again for sure next weekend.  Thanks again for the offer to fix them, I appreciate it. 🙂

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the Staun deflators are the most consistent and fastest ones i've tried.

 

however, i did destroy one by using pliers to tighten the lock ring... apparently i squeezed too hard and distorted the housing which made the little piston occasionally stick. when it stuck, it would just keep letting air out till the tire was flat or i tapped on it.

 

i recently bought a new set of Staun and noticed that there is indeed a warning to only hand tighten and not use tools on them - doh!

 

i've also had good luck with the J.T. Brooks deflators. they were easier than the Staun to dial-in, and their pro version looks even simpler. they aren't quite as fast to air-down as the Staun, but by only maybe 30 seconds.

 

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1 minute ago, theksmith said:

however, i did destroy one by using pliers to tighten the lock ring... apparently i squeezed too hard and distorted the housing which made the little piston occasionally stick. when it stuck, it would just keep letting air out till the tire was flat or i tapped on it.

 

I love my Stauns so I controlled my urge to use some sort of tool and hand tightened them.  The tape isn't pretty but hey, it works. 🙂 

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I will start by saying I love my rig most days but some days not so much, today(actually the last few weeks) she's on my s$%t list. 🤣

 

Here's the skinny as it were. I was checking my lights and noticed my passenger side headlamp with the new shiny bulb was out again. There was some wailing and gnashing of teeth along with a choice word or two thrown in for good measure. I removed the headlight and my connection into the wire harness was loose even with the tab locked in place. I was able to remove the H4 cable without unlocking it. So I tested with my stock headlamp and got the same result, loose connection and no light unless I held the connector down with my thumb. At this point I am wondering if something happened at the dealership when they washed out my engine bay. Highly unlikely but it still crossed my mind then I moved on.

 

After those steps I did what my Mexican ancestors taught me and got out my electrical tape then went to work.  Below is the result of that work. So far so good, we shall see what happens after a few pot holes and bumps will do. 🙂

1660104867_BLHLPOS.thumb.jpg.f5f024b2298394290d3a6facee0098da.jpg

 

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You may want to add a little Di-electric grease in that connection, prevents corrosion and help to keep the water out. Add option "B", shrink tube the connector (non-glue type) it will never work loose and it's not to much of a pain to cut it off next time you have to replace the light.

Edited by Stacey and Scott
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Using a cable tie between the wires of both connectors to draw the two insulators together is a good way to tighten a connector.

 

Quick, clean, easily removed, and can apply a lot of clamping force.

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19 hours ago, shellback91 said:

I will start by saying I love my rig most days but some days not so much, today(actually the last few weeks) she's on my s$%t list. 🤣

 

Here's the skinny as it were. I was checking my lights and noticed my passenger side headlamp with the new shiny bulb was out again. There was some wailing and gnashing of teeth along with a choice word or two thrown in for good measure. I removed the headlight and my connection into the wire harness was loose even with the tab locked in place. I was able to remove the H4 cable without unlocking it. So I tested with my stock headlamp and got the same result, loose connection and no light unless I held the connector down with my thumb. At this point I am wondering if something happened at the dealership when they washed out my engine bay. Highly unlikely but it still crossed my mind then I moved on.

 

After those steps I did what my Mexican ancestors taught me and got out my electrical tape then went to work.  Below is the result of that work. So far so good, we shall see what happens after a few pot holes and bumps will do. 🙂

1660104867_BLHLPOS.thumb.jpg.f5f024b2298394290d3a6facee0098da.jpg

 

 

Using a cable tie between the wires of both connectors to draw the two insulators together is a good way to tighten a connector.

 

Quick, clean, easily removed, and can apply a lot of clamping force.

 
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On 1/9/2021 at 9:07 AM, jgaz said:

 

 

Using a cable tie between the wires of both connectors to draw the two insulators together is a good way to tighten a connector.

 

Quick, clean, easily removed, and can apply a lot of clamping force.

 
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Thank you sir, next time i have to take it apart I will do that too. I tried this time but couldn't get my fat fingers to work enough to complete the task. Also I was in a hurry so I just taped it, which probably why I couldn't get it to work. 🤣

 

@Stacey and Scott I will give your suggestion of Di-electric grease as shot as well next time I take it apart.

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