What did you do to your rig today?

[LaZorraRoja 154]

For sure. I did see one that spring loaded that would probably work online and a friend gave me another one to try out so if this one doesn't work then I will do the one I saw online.

[SonoranWanderer 446]

On 7/9/2022 at 9:36 PM, LaZorraRoja said:

Spoiled by having a backup camera, I want to be able to see through it on the trail- when it's most useful. 

I decided to get a universal windshield washer nozzle and pump and make it work. It does ... Sort of. If I'm on a slope and use it, it siphons. I don't think a check valve will work. Y'all know of any type of valve that might?

 

 

If I understand the problem here correctly, what you mean by "siphon is that on a slope" is that it leaks out the washer fluid from the tank under the hood? That would make sense in a uphill attitude, the tailgate output is at a lower elevation than the storage tank up front.

 

Generally speaking a check valve would not the solution because check valves are designed to prevent reverse flow. A passive check valve would indeed fail, but an active check valve (spring-loaded, normally closed) should work if only because there needs to be a certain amount of positive forward pressure to open the valve, the kind of pressure a strong enough pump motor would generate.

 

Technically speaking, a spring-loaded check valve is also a simple form of an anti-siphon valve. The main difference here is that most anti-siphon valves (like hose bib and irrigation) have a reverse flow pressure relief for the output side, which you do not need here.

Edited July 11, 2022 by SonoranWanderer

[LaZorraRoja 154]

Thanks Woody. You're correct, that's the issue. I did order a spring loaded check valve earlier today and should be able to test it out by Thursday. I'll keep y'all posted. 

[LaZorraRoja 154]

I think I have it working... At least, it hasn't blown up yet! 

 

Parts

 

Pump

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WIP6300

 

EVIL ENERGY 1/4" 6mm Non Return One Way Check Valve for Fuel Line Oil Petrol Diesel Aluminium Silver Pack of 2 https://a.co/d/j9GIcsj

 

OTUAYAUTO Universal Windshield Washer Nozzles Kit - Replaces OEM #47137, Spray Jet Kit (pack of 11) https://a.co/d/eygY2Ea

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Spring-Assortment-Kit-84-Pack-13554/203133714

 

 

I kinda eyeballed the location to mount the spray nozzle on the camera housing and then hot knifed the nozzle to trim off the extra "booty" extending past the housing. Eventually I'll paint it to match the body. These nozzles are adjustable and I was able to direct the stream across the lens despite being very close to one another. Surprised and happy about that! 

 

The hard part was getting the siphon issue resolved. The check valve in the link did eventually work, but I needed to modify it a bit. 

The spring inside is very very weak, so I bought the spring assortment from home depot and found one that was a good fit and put enough pressure on the diaphragm to stop the siphon. However, that only worked until I tested the washer because the pressure popped the cap off the spring. I solved that by putting another spring on the outside of the cap, because the valve body has about 3mm of space between it and the cap. 

That held, but it still dribbled!! So, I added a small washer between the spring and the rubber diaphragm. I think it helped distribute the force on the seal. So far, so good. It's not so strong a seal that the spray is compromised, and by placing the valve an inch from the nozzle, only a very small amount of fluid is able to leak after using it. 

 

[Curly 952]

Adding to the Wagoneer chapter.  After getting the engine running, I had an oil leak from the Valve cover.  The 258/4.2 engine is well known for valve cover leaks so I had resealed it while the engine was on the stand.  It didn't take, so I decided to replace the Valve cover.

 

The cover is a strange design.  The original cover was plastic and only held down by 2 bolts--1 front/rear and 2 nuts on the very top. I figured the 40+ year old cover might be warped so I ordered a replacement Plastic one.  That is the new one already installed in the pic below.  You can see the 2 top nuts in the pic.

 

The cover had a HUGE leak along the intake side of the head and there is no way to fasten it down, so I decided to suck it up and buy an aftermarket Aluminum one.

To install it, I had to remove the studded rocker bridges.  Those are VC seals on the studs.

 

I also had to tap 5 bolt holes for the new cover. Luckily, the holes were already drilled and a 5/16- Bottom tap did the trick.  Probably the easiest part of this job.  New rocker bridges installed in this pic.

 

Here is the cover installed.  I'd like to say that fixed the leak, but it didn't. I wound up trying 2 different gaskets before I found one that worked, and I still had to add gasket cement to stop the leaks completely.  Ignore the zip tie, it's only holding the wire loom out of the way.

 

I got pretty fast at removing the cover, 15 min or so to remove it.  if that sounds slow, there is one bolt on the rear of the head that is darn near impossible to reach.  To make it easier I decided to drill a hole in the Cowl so I could get a straight shot at it.  Turns out, Jeep had already put a hole right where I needed it.  Once I found that, it really sped up the job.

 

Closer view of the rear bolt access.

 

I guess the 4.2 in the casting is in case I forget the engine size.

[theksmith 4,041]

1 hour ago, Curly said:

Adding to the Wagoneer chapter.  After getting the engine running, I had an oil leak from the Valve cover.  The 258/4.2 engine is well known for valve cover leaks so I had resealed it while the engine was on the stand.  It didn't take, so I decided to replace the Valve cover.

 

The cover is a strange design.  The original cover was plastic and only held down by 2 bolts--1 front/rear and 2 nuts on the very top. I figured the 40+ year old cover might be warped so I ordered a replacement Plastic one.  That is the new one already installed in the pic below.  You can see the 2 top nuts in the pic.

 

The cover had a HUGE leak along the intake side of the head and there is no way to fasten it down, so I decided to suck it up and buy an aftermarket Aluminum one.

To install it, I had to remove the studded rocker bridges.  Those are VC seals on the studs.

 

I also had to tap 5 bolt holes for the new cover. Luckily, the holes were already drilled and a 5/16- Bottom tap did the trick.  Probably the easiest part of this job.  New rocker bridges installed in this pic.

 

Here is the cover installed.  I'd like to say that fixed the leak, but it didn't. I wound up trying 2 different gaskets before I found one that worked, and I still had to add gasket cement to stop the leaks completely.  Ignore the zip tie, it's only holding the wire loom out of the way.

 

I got pretty fast at removing the cover, 15 min or so to remove it.  if that sounds slow, there is one bolt on the rear of the head that is darn near impossible to reach.  To make it easier I decided to drill a hole in the Cowl so I could get a straight shot at it.  Turns out, Jeep had already put a hole right where I needed it.  Once I found that, it really sped up the job.

 

Closer view of the rear bolt access.

 

I guess the 4.2 in the casting is in case I forget the engine size.

 

so did the aluminum one stop all the leaking?

[Curly 952]

Yes, but i had to add sealant to finally stop the leak.   I will say, in all my years working on cars, I have never had to work so hard to stop a leak. 

 

[WILL E 419]

Buddy and I snuck in an early morning 'bull dog' run

 

[LaZorraRoja 154]

2 hours ago, WILL E said:

Buddy and I snuck in an early morning 'bull dog' run

 

Love the FSJs. Last one was a 74 J10.

[J2DXPLR 131]

On 8/4/2022 at 6:44 PM, WILL E said:

Buddy and I snuck in an early morning 'bull dog' run

 

They are gorgeous!