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  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
    Trail loop itself was first time exploratory so I am giving it a difficult rating. Kristoffer was a fearless trail leader. Rolling past guest entrance to Castle Hot Springs Past this closed gate is where I believe the Ruby Wash trail begins ‘Tiff in what I believe was the first difficult section. Pardon me bad with directions I get lost leaving the parking lot but K can set me straight.. Ruby wash is basically a loose boulder field. Almost feels like things are constantly slipping out from under you while driving. This was another interesting section We both made it with out too much hassle my camera appears to have caught K with two bum taillights but it’s just trick photography he has a beast of a jk and not afraid to use it! almost like driving up a wall rear lockers engaged.. camera does this photo no justice & we were driving through what looked like a field of poppies This young stud was holding firm ground wouldn’t budge for either of us Thanks K for leading had a great time
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    Happy Independence Day Gang!!! Wishing you fun with friends and family this weekend!!!!
  5. 3 points
    Now that my rig is getting up there in miles, I'm looking more into what additional spare parts I should be carrying to get the rig running again if something goes wrong while out on a trail. This is meant to cover typical parts that might fail for a JK/JKU on any type of trail (i.e. not rock-crawler type spare hard parts). Also, I'm not going to cover tools and things like a jump-start box in this thread, just parts and know-how. Note some of this info might also apply to a JL (newer Wrangler) or JT (Gladiator) that has the 3.6L. Non-model-specific parts: See the general list of "duct tape & bailing wire" type items you might want to carry here: Owners Manual It's nice to have a searchable electronic copy of the basic user manual on your phone or tablet. Download your year-specific one here: https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-garage/select-vehicle.html Or a direct download for the 2016 JK/JKU manual: 2016-Wrangler-OM-3rd.pdf OBD2 (check engine light) The JK (like other Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge models), will show you most check-engine light codes (DTC's) in the cluster by using the simple "key trick". You just turn the key from ACC to ON 3 times fairly quickly and then hold on ON that last time. The code will read out in the odometer. Here's a couple lists of code definitions that I print out and keep in the rig. OBD2 DTC List - Common.pdf OBD2 DTC List - Jeep.pdf A smart phone and a bluetooth OBD-II dongle is handy as well to see other data besides just the code. That or a dedicated OBD-II code reader will also sometimes pull codes that you can't get with the key trick (like SRS or extended transmission controller related), as well as as "soft codes" that have occurred but not enough times to trip the MIL (check engine light) yet. I did a large write-up with more details on the OBD-2 stuff here: Basic Electronics All the fuses and most relays for the JK are in the TIPM (fuse/relay box) under the hood. Inside the lid is a diagram of what they all are, but it's very hard to read. I ran across this site where someone took the time to write all that down, so I took that info and made another doc you can print out and have a much easier to read diagram and list of all those: 2013+ Jeep Wrangler JK TIPM (Fuses & Relays).pdf I was also able to find these wiring diagrams from a 2009 JK. Some of this would be specific to early JK's (3.8L engine) and so be careful about relying on the wire color codes shown here if you have a later JK with the 3.6L like mine. JK Wiring Diagrams.pdf Here are the Mopar part numbers or links for some things you might consider having a spare of: Large TIPM relays: 04692139AA Small TIPM relays: 68083380AA TIPM Circuit breaker: 4692143AA TIPM Fuses: The JK uses the High-Profile / Standard / Tall style "Cartridge" fuses along with "Mini" fuses, here's a Spare Fuses Kit with both types... Other relays: Outside of the TIPM, JK's have a few other relays in the engine bay. In any Rubicon, two of them control the lockers. In the 3.8L JK there are 2 that control the low and high speeds on the cooling fan. My JK has 2 more that I've still got to find out what are for! There is a specific part number for the double ones (2 joined by a single mounting bracket), but any one of them can be replaced with part # 56055667AB. In fact, inside the waterproof housing, they all seem to all be a standard automotive 5 pin 12v relay. Basic Spares Serpentine belt: Part # 4627043AA for the 3.6L Idler pulleys: Super common failure item, the 3.6L has (2) of part # 4627039AA. Both the 3.6 and 3.8L without air conditioner, have a third idler: part # 53034002AA. Radiator cap: Cheap, small, and critical - might as well carry a spare: part # 4596198. Radiator hoses: The actual hoses on the JK are pretty big, so I don't carry those but instead have a radiator hose repair kit (which includes splices for the heater hoses). Starter: They typically last well over 100k miles, but with an automatic I can't push start the thing and so a dead starter will leave me stranded. Since it's a relatively easy part to replace trail-side and not too big of a part, I do keep a spare. The part # for a 3.6L starter is 56029852AA (check eBay). It's worth noting that if your starter seems to have gone out, sometimes a tap with a hammer or rock will get it going again to get you off the trail. Be sure to check that it's not just a loose or corroded connection (or a weak battery) before resorting to violence though! What am I missing? I don't think the JK has any super common sensor issues (like that crank position sensor on the old 4.0L engines). The only semi-common failure I've heard of on the 3.6L is the oil-cooler, but that's not a trail-side repair. I am considering pro-actively having it replaced soon. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulleys not long ago, I may also go ahead and do the radiator hoses and cap. Does anyone know of: - any other common failure points with the JK or 3.6L engine? - other items to proactively replace at 100k miles?
  6. 3 points
    This applies to all vehicles but I just helped a friend change out their rotors on a JKU and the bracket that holds the caliper has two bolts which are 18 mm. If you have the need to access your axles this 18mm will help you get there. Point is, carry a 18 mm wrench or travel with someone who does. John
  7. 3 points
    Added a few more storage options from Molle Panel Solutions. These panels use the factory hard top mount points and then heavy Velcro at the sport bar. Everything is both soft top and hardtop compatible. I’ve got a tear away molle medical pouch I’ll be rigging up to it and will be adding some other smaller items such as a mag lite, and some other storage pouches.
  8. 3 points
    one of the little LED bolt lights on my custom rear license plate / camera / third brake light mount died recently. those never did stick out quite far enough to illuminate the plate really well, so i switched to a new plate light which required a slight re-design of the top portion. before: after: i also replaced the little bolts that hold on the camera with some stainless steel - the black ones i used before were rusting. then i cleaned up the wiring on the back side and changed out the electrical connector (the Deutsch connector was difficult to un-clip). before: after:
  9. 3 points
    i had the car wash place do a carnauba hand wax, then i went back over the whole thing with Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer to even out the shine and remove all the white residue they leave in the cracks and on the trim. the quick detailer is reasonably priced, anti-static, easy to apply, and doesn't remove existing wax.
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    finished re-painting the bumpers and rock sliders, touched up a few little spots on the body, then got her all shined up.
  12. 3 points
    Drove past the Rubicon today
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    My thoughts are that any trailer you find that is at or under the tow rating of the hitch on the vehicle will be fine. Here's the reasoning behind my thoughts/opinions: 1- I would not be concerned about any issues with the rear frame crossmember mounted tow hitch, as it's been rated by Jeep to handle the loads they specify as max rated. My experience with thier testing protocols, gives me confidence that they have tested this design, and confirmed it capable of the rating they indicate. 2- While I am no longer "in the loop" regarding the reasoning for the class II rating, as opposed to a higher rating, I am of the opinion that it has more to do with the drivetrain, and or lack of larger trailer vehicle dynamics testing, than the structural integrity of the hitch system. 3- While I haven't seen the specifications on materials used, nor seen the two pieces side-by side for comparison purposes, CURT mfg. offers a class III hitch for the JL, that appears in the photographs of thier product, and the installation video they've produced, to be identical in mounting methods, and at least nearly so in component shape and design, and physical size to the OEM "Mopar" unit that is rated as a class II. CURT is a major player in the towing products industry, with a solid reputation, who does durability and reliability testing of thier products. If they felt their design, using the OEM c/mbr was not up to the task of a class III rating, I have ZERO doubts that they would have designed a different mounting system. 4- I would not assume that one of the "HD" steel bumpers with an intergral hitch tube to automatically be superior to the OEM hitch, as most are simply an open "C"-channel with only the rear face "enclosed", making them weaker in torsion that a fully enclosed tube, such as what the OEM rear crossmember is... Hope this is helpful Ryan...
  15. 3 points
    That is my favorite part of this group. Everyone is helpful all while not being flaming wise asses!
  16. 3 points
    hmmm....experienced "old hand"....hmmm...That's not Ryan, as he's not very old.... smiles, ladybug
  17. 3 points
    ran an obscure little trail this weekend with @scottL - Ruby Wash. here's his trip report... unfortunately i slipped into a boulder and ate up my passenger rear fender flair pretty good:
  18. 2 points
    ever since i installed the K&N snorkel setup, i've had a minor rattle as i pass a certain RPM during hard acceleration. overall the snorkel/filter added a nice deep tone when you floor it, but the brief buzzing sound was annoying. i finally got around to removing the fender and taking the whole thing apart to try and see where the noise was coming from... this portion of the snorkel tubing runs right by the exhaust headers on the passenger side: it turns out the heat shield on there was rubbing the headers' heat shield just a bit. you can see the scratches in the middle here where they were touching: i was able to wiggle things around a little as i put it all back together and make more space between those shields - and indeed the noise is now gone. yay! while i was in there, i wrapped the entire portion that runs near the headers with some fiberglass/foil reflective heat tape to try and keep the intake temps down. a 2" x 15' roll of DEI's Reflect-a-Gold was just enough. i didn't do a scientific before & after temperature comparison, so i can't really say for sure if it made any difference - but i can't imagine it would hurt!
  19. 2 points
    Honestly, 90% of the stuff posted in the AZVJC needs to be taken with a few pounds of salt I have found. Lots of blowhards in that group.
  20. 2 points
    Most of Tonto will be closed from this weekend till at least end of July due to extreme fire conditions. An overview of what's till open here: https://www.abc15.com/news/state/tonto-national-forest-to-close-before-fourth-of-july-weekend-due-to-wildfire-concerns The full order from the NF: https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd759512.pdf
  21. 2 points
    i ordered some aluminum fender flares! Nemesis Notorious Front and Notorious Rear Dovetail. here's a good shot of them on a Teraflex rig: since i have a narrow bumper, i opted for the "dovetail" style rears that taper down at the back:
  22. 2 points
    very true, many wrench sets skip 18mm for some reason and there are actually quite a few bolts you need one for on a modern Jeep.
  23. 2 points
    Sat, 15 August, 2020: Day Trippin' through CK to Senator to Poland Trail near Prescott, AZ | 4x4 Easy-Moderate This is an all day trip from the bottom of the CK Road at i17 through Crown King, up the Senator Highway, and connecting to the Poland Trail - ending just north of Mayer off of AZ-69. ***Out of respect and consideration for others, please observe social distancing guidelines on this trip*** TRIP INFO: Meeting Location: The bottom of the "front way" to Crown King just off the i17 (map) Please ensure you fuel up prior to meeting up at the "trail head". Timing: 7:30am meet up. Depart at 8:00am. Trail Difficulty: Easy to Moderate The day may include narrow shelf roads, mild off-camber, loose rock/boulders. Trail Description: We'll meet up at the the "bottom" of the Crown King Road and head west into the Bradshaw Mountains. We'll climb into Crown King (not sure if anything is open that early) and take the old Senator Highway north through the Prescott NF. Before we hit Prescott, we'll veer east near Mount Union, one of the tallest mountains in the area down Poland Road. This trail will take us through the historic village of Breezy Pines, all that remains of the Poland mining community. If we're up to it, we'll go on a very brief walk to check out the Walker Tunnel, which was once part of Murphy's Impossible Railroad that moved supplies and ore from between Prescott and the Crown King Mine. Our day will end right at the AZ-69, just north of the town of Mayer. Crown King Road (easy) - graded, high-speed dirt road from the desert into the pine forest surrounding the small town of Crown King. Senator Highway (easy) - well known and well worn trail leading from CK north to Prescott. Poland Road (moderate) - taking us to a max of 7,600 ft, this road is bumpy/bouldery with some mild technical sections, and filled with history. Total off-road mileage is just about 68 miles. For information on Prescott NF COVID-19 disruptions, please click here. Fire Restrictions (as of the time of this post) are at STAGE 2: information here. Additional Considerations: Dress for the weather! Bring a chair! Bring a lunch and plenty of water, we'll be out there all day Sunscreen! Bring a camera! Emergency supplies / Med kit Fire extinguisher VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: Vehicle Minimums: All vehicles are required to meet state legal requirements, (i.e.: current registration and insurance) Have functional seat-belts for each occupant Must have suitable recovery points front and rear Each vehicle must have a CB Radio or a Ham Radio in good working order High-clearance 4x4's with low-range 30"+ aggressive all-terrain or mud-terrain tires GPX FILES: Coming soon! COMMS: CB Channel: 4 Ham Frequency: 146.46 MHz SIGN UPS: Rig Limit: This trip is limited to 8 total rigs. Once the limit is reached, anyone asking to sign-up will be placed on the standby list. Please don't hesitate to sign-up as a standby because people often do drop-out so you may get to still go. Post a reply in this thread saying you'd like to go and I'll put you on the roster! ***Out of respect and consideration for others, please observe social distancing guidelines on this trip*** Attending: 1 - @4x4tographer (lead) 2 - @AZRNintheJeep242 (maybe) 3 - @CAVU2 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - Standby: 1 -
  24. 2 points
    Just an FYI, I did this trail on a Saturday, going the same way. It was nuts! 90 SXS on the trail! Yes, 90! They all were headed to CK from Mayer, they all thought they were the only ones on the road. Charging around blind corners with out slowing down. Several near collisions. It was a group run, they had a guy in a jeep leading, he was the one who gave us the heads up about how many were coming. Be aware, it is a fun but popular trail.
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    I read through both posts from theksmith and they are both great! Two items I recently added to the Jeep are a fuel pressure gauge ($25) and spark tester ($5) from Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-62623.html?_br_psugg_q=fuel+pressure+tester https://www.harborfreight.com/in-line-spark-checker-63590.html There are some complaints that the fuel pressure gauge leaks, but it worked fine for me when I replaced my fuel pump. You can also use the Harbor Freight coupons to knock another 20 percent off of the advertised prices. Thanks.
  27. 2 points
    On the surface, it seems to ber a fair assessment. To confirm you wil need to pull the interior panel off, to access the mechanisms.
  28. 2 points
    Good job Kris! Nice to see you’re a fan of Chemical Guys products. I’m sure you know that it is MUCH cheaper to use their online site instead of shopping in their local store. There is always some sorta of deal online. I really like this product : It says tire shine and it works well for that although not as long lasting as some harder to apply products. where it really shines (pun intended) is applied to black plastic trim etc. I like it much better than ArmorAll because any overspray on the paint is ez to wipe off, doesn't seem to smear like some products. I use it on all the black trim on my truck as well as the tires
  29. 2 points
    So I shared the www.scoutshop.org/ site with my sister who is a big time backpacker/hiker and she's freaking out over the deals. She found a pack that she spent $400 on for $125. Seriously nice find! I was a Boy Scout for like a decade and have never once thought they'd have some type of "REI" online store. Super cool!
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    Meet: Saturday 6/13/2020, TBD Not sure whose going or where but I am willing to coordinate or lead a run Saturday the 13th. Reply to this thread if you want to come and with ideas of some trail to try out. Trail: TDB Required: Experienced off-road drivers. Must have a street legal 4x4 with low range, a mild lift, agressive A/T or M/T tires, full skid plates and rocker protection, secure tow points. Other Info: Bring plenty of water and a lunch. CB channel 4 or ham simplex 146.46 Mhz Attending: @cavu2 (leading) Reply to this thread if you want to come and with ideas of some trail to try out.
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    @JCW, I’m sorry, no. I sold it quite awhile ago. I had it posted on several forums and thought I had cleaned them all up. I guess I missed ORP. FWIW, I used this to mount my RTT on my lifted LJ. It wasn’t really very good for that. The tent is about 95 lbs, but it made the hoist sag enough that I could barely get it to the rack. Plus it’s tedious because the hoist part is geared so low. Lots and lots of cranking. It may work better to remove the top, but I never tried that. The guy who bought it was going to use it for a heavier tent. He planned to strengthen the components a bit and extend the height.
  35. 2 points
    Been working on finding as many possible options that are feasible or borderline-feasible for a JKU/JLU with max tow equipped, assuming the specs of 350 tongue / 3,500 GVWR. My focus, of course, is a lot more narrow as I'm looking at it from the perspective of a family of 4. Our requirements are: Toilet (dry bath preferred, wet bath in a pinch) Dedicated master bed Extra sleeping space to comfortable accommodate 2 growing children (no 30" dinettes will support 2 teen agers) Safe weight rating Here's my research so far. I've hyperlinked each trailer. Trailer Sleep Setup Bathroom Tongue UVW (Dry) CCC (Capacity) GVWR (Dry+Cargo) Length Jayco Jay Flight SLX 7 174BH Bed + Bunk Dry 270 2,945 850 3,750 21' 6" Rpod RP-190 Bed + Large Dinette Dry 307 2,979 838 3,817 20' 4" KZ Sportsmen Classic 160RBT Dual Foldout Beds Dry 320 2,790 710 3,500 18' 11" KZ Sportsmen Classic SE 180BHSE Bed + Bunk Dry 320 2,580 920 3,500 20' 9" Coachmen Viking Ultra-Lite 17BH Bed + Bunk Dry 340 3,014 826 3,840 20' 5" Coachmen Apex Nano 185BH Bed + Bunk Dry 350 2,870 930 3,800 20' 6" Shasta 18BH Bed + Bunk Dry 350 3,229 1821 5,050 22' 5" Rockwood Geo Pro G19BH Bed + Bunk Dry 360 3,088 772 3,860 20' Flagstaff E-Pro E19BH Bed + Bunk Dry 360 3,088 772 3,860 20' Coachmen Apex Nano 15X Dual Foldout Beds Dry 360 2,940 860 3,800 18' 7" 2021 Winnibago Micro Minnie 1700BH Bed + Bunk Dry 380 3,280 420 3,700 20' 9" 2019 Winnibago Micro Minnie 1700BH Bed + Bunk Dry 380 3,100 600 3,700 20' 9" Coachmen Viking Saga Ultra-Lite 17SBH Bed + Bunk Dry 383 2,959 924 3,883 20' 4" So this gives me about 4-6 possibilities that I'd feel comfortable with. Notably, all of these options are absent a slide-out with the exception of the R-Pod. I really like the Geo-Pro/E-Pro twins, especially for their solar and water saving systems for extended dry camping. But they're probably just too heavy. Water by itself will push me right up to the edge of my 3,500lb capacity. And I'd like to be able to dry camp when we need, which is likely the majority of what we'll do in it. I'm going to look a little harder at more of the "fold out tent bed" options as they seem to be a good compromise and can be pretty spacious.
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    I have not seen the currently designed hitch system for Europe, so cannot comment specifically to it, and/or how it might relate to the hitch design currently available "OEM" on the US versions of the JL's from FCA. However, during my working years with these systems, the European hitch's were of a significantly differing design, as required by their standards. The obvious choice to fit within the OEM specifications is the lighter tongue weight trailer. A tongue load of 390 lbs, is slightly more than 10% higher than the hitch is rated for by FCA/Jeep. With a clear conscience, I cannot recommend any trailer in excess of the manuf. specified maximums. That said, I believe that with a properly installed load-equalizing hitch, and a light-to-moderate towing style (IE: no regular uses of W.O.T. {wide open throttle}, heavy braking, towing long stretches of washboarded unpaved roads at "non-trailering speeds", etc.), you may be able to make this work to your satisfaction. Should you chose to go with the larger tongue-load trailer, I would HIGHLY recommend more frequent "close up" inspections of the hitch mounting and attachment AND the crossmember-to-frame side rails for cracking, fastener loosening, etc. As an example, I would suggest inspections (at least for the first couple thousand miles or so), each time you stop for fuel, or lunch, etc.. And I would also recommend a thorough "crawl under it with a bright light" inspection, each time you return home, with hopes of catching any impending issues BEFORE they become large ones while towing. FWIW: The above suggested inspections, are a good idea with ANY hitch system and size trailer you choose, but perhaps less frequently with smaller sized trailers that fit within the manufacturer's specifications. JMHO... YMMV
  38. 2 points
    This article may have been posted here before or you may have seen it already. https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453 After reading this article it would be reasonable to assume that the JL trailer tow ratings had more to do with cooling capacity than anything structural. Just an FYI: I’ve never participated in trailer hitch testing for any Wrangler model. I have however been heavily involved with both Grand Cherokee and full size pick up testing of trailer hitches and mounting structure. Trust me is very through. I find it hard to believe that any bumper manufacture spends the $ and time required to duplicate the manufactures methods.
  39. 2 points
    If you ever hear, or read the term “drum in hat”, this is the e brake design they are referring to.
  40. 2 points
    thanks for posting Scotty! i had a great time... it was in the upper 80's out there and we had a nice little breeze. we only did the first half of Ruby Wash trail and then exited via Trilby Wash southward to the west end of Castle Hot Springs road. i think we covered all the fun parts though (rock-crawling and loose steep climbs)! Ruby Wash is a fairly short trail - remote, seldom traveled and challenging enough to keep you awake. the majority of what we did was in a narrow wash and i'd imagine trail conditions change after every good storm. i think its a very strong "moderate" or maybe even "difficult". mostly you're just dragging diffs on the least offensive bowling-ball sized rocks you can line up with. however, there are a couple off camber spots where you also have to avoid half-Jeep-sized boulders. one of those spots i slipped off my line and beat up my passenger rear fender flair pretty good. i'd like to go back sometime in the winter to check out the short slot canyon and mine ruins that we skipped over this time.
  41. 2 points
    Have fun guys! I thought about joining ya but I’ve got chores.
  42. 2 points
    “Ask and you shall receive” If this isn’t an example of a great forum I don't know what is. Ask a question and get excellent advice from an admitted new trailer user and a very experienced “old hand”. No flaming, no wise ass remarks. Just solid advice given in two well written posts.
  43. 2 points
    A VERY thoughtful and informative write-up. Well done Ryan. I agree 100% with you observations and suggestions for improving the safety of towing. I've been towing trailers, for 50-plus years, and and teaching towing basics to test drivers for many of them, and I must say that you hit nearly all the important safety highlights squarely on the head. And most of the user friendly oriented ones as well, including some valuable helpful hints for those who are new to RV's with holding tanks. If I would add any thoughts, it would be to be ever mindful of the extra weight of towing a trailer that weighs nearly 2/3 the weight of the tow vehicle, causing braking distances to increase as much as double non-towing capabilities, and the potential for creating control issues, especially in down-hill situations and elevated speeds. Braking distances will increase in all situations, and depending on added weight, and braking balance of braking systems, creating the need for higher than normal distances to the vehicles in front of you. Additionally, the weight shift of the trailer adding extra load to the hitch of the tow vehicle, in all situations, but particularly when decending grades, tends to unload some weight from the front wheels of the tow vehicle (which BTW normally produce the bulk of normal braking effectiveness of a vehicle). This can be partially offset by proper installation of a load equalizing hitch, as you have wisely noted/suggested. Additionally the extra weight can cause increases in speed for the downhill situations, that may increase the tendencies of a towed trailer to begin to oscilate in a yawing (side-to-side) motions, which is also referred to as the tail (or trailer) to "waging the dog" (so-to-speak). This yaw moment can be significantly reduced by use of the sway control devices you alluded to, and is also helped by the use of a load equalizing hitch. Sound and thoughtful response, and tips shared Ryan. Well done indeed.
  44. 1 point
    Kelty Tru.Comfort Doublewide Sleeping Bag I had been looking for a new double (2 person) sleeping bag, and ran across the Kelty Tru.Comfort Doublewide for $75 on scoutshop.org. I think it may be the previous year model, but it normally sells for $180 everywhere and I paid $84 with shipping to Phoenix. - Tru Comfort Doublewide from ScoutShop I haven't received it yet, but did get a shipping confirmation and I'll update this thread once I check it out first hand. The price, flexible temperature features, and a positive review from @lofreqjeff and Katie are what sold me on this Kelty. Here's a good overview of the bag: The other 2 person bags I had been looking at were: - Nemo Jazz Duo 20 (anything I've gotten from Nemo has been high quality) - Sierra Designs Frontcountry Bed 20 Queen/Double (neat zipperless design) - SylvanSport Cloud Layer Double Sleeping Bag (cool removable sheet system) I was really leaning towards the SylvanSport, but couldn't resist this super deal on the Kelty. Note that all 3 of the above bags can also be purchased in standard single-person versions. Nemo Roamer XL Sleep Pad We are pairing this new bag with two Nemo Roamer Sleeping Pads. I'm going with 2 pads instead of a single queen size so I can use one when I camp solo. I tried my new Nemo Roamer for the first time on our last campout and loved it! Regular cheap air mattresses hurt my back but most of the pads I've tired are too thin for my taste. The Roamer is similar to the most luxury offerings from Thermarest, Exped, or SylvanSport - but packs down smaller. It's a self-inflating style, but not like the old school Thermarests in that these actually inflate themselves to 90% fairly quickly and are also easy to deflate. The separate one-way inflate and deflate valves are really handy. Nemo's stuff is pricey, but high quality and this is by far the best pad I've found for a side-sleeper (and I've tried quite a few over the years)! Here's a review on the Nemo Roamer:
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    been giving Gadget a little exterior love this week... touched up sliders, bumpers, and a few other places with Krylon Satin Black, and then all the plastic and rubber items got a rub down with 303 protectant.
  47. 1 point
    @ob1jeeper Thanks for the information I appreciate a ton. I have been leaning towards the lighter for a lot of reasons, mainly because it is lighter and within specs. The other is a bunch of Jeppers pull them safely. I am safety conscious and could not agree more about the inspections. They are a must. Thanks again!
  48. 1 point
    now you'll be able to see when those pesky trees are coming for your mirrors!
  49. 1 point
    Installed some spacers to lift up my driver's seat. Hugh difference!
  50. 1 point
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