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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/15/2024 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Wednesday 7-3 attendees were: @DanJL @Micely @DanT AKA Telluride They finally opened the Badge of Honor trails Ophir and Imogene Tuesday afternoon. They must have known how important this group is and wanted to avoid pissing us off I presume. 🤣 We started on the Ouray side of Ophir Pass and made our way towards Telluride. Ophir Pass sits at 11,789 feet. The weather was perfect and we had clear sky's all day. There were a few water crossings closer to the town of Ophir, narrow shelf roads all the way across but no major pucker factor obstacles to deal with. Visibility was good which allowed us to see well ahead and prepare for any oncoming traffic coming uphill, which as most of know has the right of way.(This comes into play on Imogene) We had to maneuver around a few groups on the way down,everyone cooperated and we all got around each other on the narrow shelf road sections. All in all an easy trail with some great scenery along the way, definitely worth a revisit. Once we got past the town of Ophir we wound up at CO HWY 145. We crossed the highway and grabbed Illium Road trail. This was just a hard packed forest road that I decided to take up to Telluride, it was kinda boring but I wanted to stay off pavement as long as possible so we did not have to air back up. We came out near the airport and headed to Telluride to grab Imogene Pass. Now came the fun part, Imogene Pass which sits at 13,138 ft. This trail is freaking awesome is my summation. It has plenty of challenges(Steep Climbs, Narrow Shelf Roads, stupid drivers etc.) to keep you on your toes all the way across. You have to pay attention all the way across was my take away. Starting in Telluride you should use 4 Low, at least I did. The fun starts right off the bat at the trailhead with a long, narrow, and steep climb out of town. The views from here are pretty damn cool. We did have to work around other rigs coming the other direction, including a couple of tour group rigs. Once we cleared the tree line we stopped for a much needed break and lunch at the Smuggler Union Mine ruins. The views here did not suck at all either. Once we finished lunch we kept on truckin' towards the summit with a stop at the Tomboy Town site ruins. There are several off shot trails and "round about" trails here which got me a little confused(Not for the first or last time today sadly) but I eventually figured it out. We made our way to the summit after climbing some narrow shelf roads and working through some switchbacks where a group of folks forgot uphill has the right of way. We all maneuvered with some some spotting and patience around this group. It was tight, folding in mirrors tight. The climb up was awesome and well worth it. The views are never ending from here. we spent some time up top taking pictures and trying to breathe due to the lack of oxygen, or maybe i am just too fat and elevation is not my friend. Once done gawking we made our way to the trails end. There is an optional obstacle just past the summit which has a bypass. Finding it boogered me up for a minute but I figured it out. The rest of the way was more of the same, narrow roads, bumpy sections, some slow going because of terrain, wet roads which was nice, and a ton of water crossings. Towards the end of the trail a few of us needed a spot getting up a rock obstacle that was wet and slippery. Lockers were engaged and Telluride helped spot us. The last bit of this trail has some obstacles to climb which added to the fun factor of this trail. There is a cutoff that runs up to Yankee Boy Basin trail that avoids these obstacles but I wanted to run the entirety so I passed up that cut off. At the end we caught Yankee Boy Basin and headed back into town. Cliff Notes: An awesome day with some good/fun challenges. I will do this trail again. Here's a link to a few of my favorite pictures from the day. https://photos.app.goo.gl/22FcmTterKZKPtfY8
  2. 6 points
    Well, here is a mini report from Telluride - trust me - these last few days I could write a book on. Did two more days of off-roading. On the final day, doing Engineer Pass via Mineral Springs (a much more difficult trail), as I was finished with the more difficult area, met up with a young lady a basic street car doing the trails and she was about to say goodbye to her vehicle (and maybe hello to injuries) if she did not turn around. She was following Google, and it told her this was a shortcut to Ouray! (I cant tell you how many times Google maps has scre*ed me). Luckily I had extra gas on the back of the jeep - but this idiot left his keys for the gas tanks at his hotel! Found a siphon hose (at least I had that!) and emptied into her tank. Had her turn around and follow me out through Engineer pass. Going down the LAST ROUGH ROAD and guess what! Yep, flat tire. Had help with a couple other off-roaders and replaced the tire. Followed me out to Lake City, but about 5 miles before that, front U joint went out. SAME EXACT TRAIL DID THIS TO ME TWO YEARS AGO! Anyhow, turned off 4WD and continued. Once I was assured she was safe, and she had a way to get the tire replaced (she had to go all the way to Denver - but NO WAY on a spare mini tire!), headed towards Telluride. Got just outside of Montrose and the Jeep overheated! Next to no antifreeze in the system. Again lucky that I had that fluid in the back of my jeep (if you see the back of my jeep - I come prepared - JUST NOT GAS KEYS (what a loser)). Emptied a gallon and went to the local auto parts store that closed in 15 minutes and bought two more gallons. Decided to stay the night in town to be safe and look at it in the light the following morning. Next to no rooms available! Finally found one, got to the hotel (it overheated again), and they overbooked! Now we were looking for a hotel again. Had to settle for a $400/night room! YIKES! Yada, yada, yada, got it to the dealership in town, they tore into it - transmission seal between the cooling system and the transmission caused both systems fail. Etc.... Etc..... $12K+ later, will be going back up this weekend to get the jeep back. Took several hours to even find a rental in Montrose for the week. Anyhow, I hope they do a good job - don't want to be on the trip back in this heat and it fails! So, how was your week? :-)
  3. 6 points
    The Trip to Ouray was awesome! It was really nice to be out with everyone. Special thank you Marty for putting it together and making it happen. Also thanks to Telluride Dan for tail gunning. I was grinning Imogene opened just in time it was Amazing!!!🤩
  4. 5 points
    The gang and I completed some pretty cool trails in Ouray this week. There was scenery for days, interesting trails, good company, and some cool ruins to check out. There are a lot of spurs all over the place off the main trails. My plan for next time is to check some of those out while revisiting the main trails. Except for A-hole SXS drivers thinking it was the last lap of the Daytona 500 both days every other rig we encountered cooperated for the most part. We had 3 no shows on this run with no updates from those folks unfortunately. Tuesday 7-2 attendees were: @DanJL @Mick Bowers @Micely @Mike and Kristen Inkrott @DanT (Now known as Telluride) We started out our day heading towards Silverton to get to San Juan County Road 2. We used this trail to make our way to Animas Forks. Along the way @Mike and Kristen Inkrott's pup got sick so they had to turn around and head back to town. ☹️ This trail overall was Easy with nothing challenging until I decided to take a spur trail named Maggie Gulch. This trail is narrow and did not look too traveled. I wanted to get to the water falls but it did not look to friendly to our rigs past the water crossing so I turned everyone around, not very gracefully mind you, and headed back out. We made it to the Animas Forks ghost town and spent some time checking out the old homes and cabins. It is always fun to walk around these places seeing how the miners and their family's lived. They were some hearty folks to eek out a living up here and survive the winters. I could not imagine doing it. From there we made our way west across the California Pass trail cruising through the California Gulch. We stopped and had lunch at the start of the switchbacks that climb up to the pass. After lunch we kept heading west and wound our way to the summit which sits at 12,898 ft. There was not enough room for all of us to stop and take pics here, I did try but we could not fit with the other vehicles that were already there. This was the same situation across the next two passes. The Hurricane Pass trail was next. The summit sits at 12,726 ft.. Nothing challenging across here, more epic scenery and some shelf road sections as we made our way across. The final trail was Corkscrew Pass, the summit sits at 12,234 ft. Nothing challenging across here, more epic scenery and some shelf road sections as we made our way across slowly making it back into the treeline. The bonus on this trail was a couple of restrooms with some pretty killer views if only they had windows. We stopped at both of course because why not. I failed to take pictures of those so I am looking forward to seeing what the group came up with. Thanks to everyone who came out with my wife and for these trails, we had a blast. Here is a link to my pictures which do the area no justice, you have to see it in person. It was hard to thin out our pile of pics so I picked my favorites. https://photos.app.goo.gl/gzesDtqsgMu2tVx68
  5. 5 points
    Thanks everyone for sharing your adventure. That part of Colorado is the reason I own a Jeep. I've been going there at least once a year since 2016. Heck I might have even tried to hook up with you guys some for this one, but my jeep is down at the moment as I'm doing some upgrades. This area was much more enjoyable before the side-by-side evasion. It was primarily Jeeps and an occasional ATV. Thanks again for sharing, it's certainly motivational.
  6. 5 points
    Ryan, After 9,000 ft that Toyota V8 started to feel like a 6 cylinder. 😅
  7. 5 points
    Marty, We’er home and fine. Thank you for getting this done. It was perfect! Mick n Bobbie IMG_1746.mov
  8. 5 points
  9. 5 points
    It was our first time REALLY off roading!! Was a great day!! Weather was in the 80's at the start and warmed up!! Thank you JACK for being patient with us newbies!! Learned a lot - already purchased air deflators and a new tire pressure gauge! We are ready to go again!!
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    Super trip! Thank Marty for organizing it! We had a ball! Looking forward to meet you all again on the next one.
  12. 4 points
    Thanks Ryan, I tend to yammer on so there may have been too much. I was just so damn excited. 🤣 Imogene is amazeballs! Windy as hell but the views and the trail getting up are second to none so no complaints. I'll be happy to show of my BOH. lol Out of the group no one mentioned anything to me but you do notice a little loss of power being so high up. OB1 explained it to Mick and I but there was math and, well I'll leave it there. 😁
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
    This was a bucket list level trip, and many thanks to Marty & Stephanie for making the plans and taking the lead. It was unfortunate that a canine medical issue interrupted our fun, but what we saw was amazing enough to make us want to go back. Shout out to “Telluride” Dan for his help as sweeper on the trails. It was great to meet new ORP friends, and thankfully the pup in question has made a full recovery. 🙂 Mike & Kristen
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    Here is our trip report. @WendyW and I set out and had a great day. We seen scenery like this: We seen an old ruin of an old house We seen a few birds like this quail. and this crow Then ended with some more scenery. We had fun. This was Wendy's first time really off-roading her Toyota. We got her on 3 wheels at one point. I think we all had fun on this one. @WendyW please post your pics as well.
  17. 4 points
    Donna and I thank you Jack @jack and thank the club for a great warm welcome!
  18. 4 points
    70,750 miles. Completed two more "hardening" projects on the Jeep ahead of the Rubicon trip later this year. Upgraded all of my suspension fasteners with a nice kit from Grimm OffRoad and beefed up my front lower control arms with a pair of skid plates from MetalCloak. The Grimm fastener upgrade has taken me a few weeks to complete, since it's been so darn hot out. I knocked out the rear suspension two weeks ago and wrapped up the front today. The kit is VERY complete and includes all new zinc plated hardware, shouldered bolts (as opposed to the fully-threaded OEM fasteners), and came in grade 10.9 - so they're plenty strong. The kit includes hardware for all 8 control arms, all 4 shocks (lower bolts only) and both the front and rear trackbars. Grimm's instructions are some of the best I've seen - Metalcloak could learn a thing or two from the - highly detailed and came with torque values (which a lot of companies are too scared to provide). One of the things I like about the kit is that the bolt and nuts are both the same size. The OEM fasteners require two different sized sockets which is a pain sometimes. The new fasteners are now in 19mm, 22mm, and 24mm across the entire suspension. The torque values are also higher than factory for the most part. The front LCAs get torqued down to 215 ft/lbs as opposed to the factory 190ft/lbs. Bonus - keeping the OEM hardware for some spares - will be nice to have some extras around for peace of mind on the trail. I'll pack 1 of each type just in case. I also picked up some "tamper proof" Viz-Torque thread lock marker paint. In the past I've just used a grease marker, but this new stuff hardens into almost a resin. You use it to mark your bolts - if any of them shift, the mark will "crack" to indicate something moved. A flathead screw driver scrapes it right off. I also picked up some front lower control arm skid plates from MetalCloak. I already had some skids from Rock Hard 4x4 which were STOUT, but the passenger side skid was never compatible with the skid plate I installed on the FAD, shortly after I bought the Jeep. The new skids have a special cutout for the FAD. They also seem to allow for more clearance with a generous cutout for the control arm to fully flex. Despite the fact that the skids are compatible with the FAD skid, Metalcloak is shipping a shouldered Grade 8 bolt that is WAY too long - I had to trim about 1 to 1 1/4 inches off of the bolt to get it to play nice with the FAD skid. In the future I might try to find some grade 10.9 hardware for it. I'm glad the LCA skid plays nice with their own FAD skid, but if they'd tried to install the two together on their test mules they would have seem this pretty glaring issue (though odds are they're running a FAD delete or some other hardcore axles on their shop Jeeps). 30 seconds with a grinder and a cut-off wheel and the bolt fit like a glove. This photo was before I torqued everything down. I wasn't 100% sure on the torque for these. MetalCloak is notorious for not providing torque values. I looked up a few charts for a 0.625-18 fine thread zinc plated bolt and found some conflicting information. I landed on 190ft/lbs and added some blue loc-tite. (I used thread locker on all of the suspension bolts). Worth mentioning that the new bolts from MetalCloak are 15/16ths (super close to 24mm). Here's a parting shot of the new skids.
  19. 4 points
    A long hot weekend but got some things accomplished. Basically, got the new 5.5" Metal Cloak(4.5 TJ) springs in and was able to mount up the new wheels and tires. It does drive down the street but my turning radius to avoid rubbing is horrendous. So Will be doing some functional trimming soon.
  20. 4 points
    Upgrade weekend ahead of the Rubicon trip later this year. Replaced the rear factory rear axle shafts with some chromoly shafts from Dana Spicer. Part numbers: 10043168 10043169 The shafts came fully pressed together - bearings, race, and included new preinstalled wheel studs. Overall the install was "easy" once I got past a stuck rotor on the driver side. Had to use some PB blaster and some heat to remove the retention bolt, and then had quite a bit of trouble getting the rotors off. I'd read that sometimes the emergency brake drum shoes can make it more difficult to remove the rotor, so I loosed the brakes a bit with the adjuster in each rear e-brake housing. More PB Blaster, more heat, and some gentle hits from a rubber mallet eventually got it off. The passenger side was a lot easier. I probably spent about an hour on the drivers side - the passenger side was a lot easier to remove. I was a little surprised by the amount of corrosion on the inside of the rotor and the mounting surface of the axle shafts. Especially considering we're in AZ and the Jeep rarely sees water. Cleaned it up the best I could with a wire wheel. Here's a shot before the clean up. Removing the shafts was a breeze with the help of an axle-puller / slide-hammer. Here's a comparison shot between the cleaned up OE shaft and the new Dana. Another comparison - new on the left, factory shaft on the right The factory shafts are in great shape and will make for some nice spares. No signs of twisting. Shaft install went off without a hitch - got the new one through the axle seal and the rest was like clockwork. Here's one of the cleaned up rotors. I added some anti-seize to the retention bolt to help with getting it removed next time. I've read that you can add copper anti-seize to the mounting surfaces to prevent future issues - I couldn't find any locally, so I'll order some online. A quick test drive and everything seems to be in order! I did notice that my e-brake isn't as "strong" as it was prior - I'd adjusted them back to where I thought they started - but apparently not enough. I'll have to pull the drums/calipers again and adjust them a little tighter. Hoping these new shafts should have more strength to handle my new 37 tires and reduce the risk of a break on the Rubicon 🙂
  21. 4 points
    this morning we changed the idler & tensioner pulleys and replaced the serpentine belt. no-name Jeep has 99k miles on her currently.
  22. 3 points
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    Thanks for coming up! I'm glad the pup is doing better.
  25. 3 points
    I actually realized that after I posted it, but I thought the folks around here would still see the humor because just go into *ANY* auto parts store these days and ask a simple question.
  26. 3 points
    Not on my workbench but I’ve always used a notebook at work that was kept under the lid of my top box. This is a “cheat sheet” I made for aligning MOPAR vehicles with adjustable LCAs. I think this was originally made when the Durango (HB) changed models in about 2002. I struggled with the KJ Jeeps before this. So much of my alignment experience was with adjustable UCAs starting with my GM dealership days in the 70s and 80s. Ive also done dozens and dozens of Dodge pickups that had adjustable upper. I just knew intuitively how moving the front or rear upper bushing was going to change the alignment. I never seemed to grasp in my head how movement of the lower affected caster and camber. This sheet was under the vehicle with me. The ovals labeled Front and Rear represent the LCA bushings.
  27. 3 points
    an early morning stroll in the desert before work
  28. 3 points
    I disagree w/Teraflex. I think you have a stuck caliper. They are designed to "float" when the brakes are released. applying the brake causes the caliper piston to move towards the disc applying the inner pad, The caliper then moves backwards bringing the outer pad into contact with the rotor. (Equal/opposite reaction). When the brakes are released, slight lateral of the rotor pushes the caliper away as well as the disc piston seal relaxing which retracts the inner pad. Chances are the caliper slide surface on the knuckle is dirty or possibly worn, same for the caliper itself.
  29. 3 points
    so i pulled a bonehead move - i didn't check my brake pads often enough (they don't have squealers) and destroyed the front passenger rotor! interestingly, the driver side still had quite a bit of pad left. Teraflex said that meant i didn't have them bled well enough. i.e. there was still air in the driver side somewhere preventing it from pressing as hard and therefore it didn't wear out as fast. this morning i replaced that rotor and all the front pads. then bled everything normally, followed by the ABS bleed procedure multiple times (using the OBDJscan app), then did a regular bleed a few more times. hopefully i got all the air out this time. also, FYI, the front pads for the Teraflex Big Brake kit are the same as a 2006-2010 Dakota or Ram 1500. i ended up getting Bosch pads next day on Amazon Prime because the Teraflex ones were going to take till next week (not to mention the TF are 3 times the cost). i was not able to find any brand with squealers for this application!
  30. 2 points
    Hey my name is Robb and I live is surprise. I just joined this group a couple of months ago and ran FR42 with a small group from here. I'm very happy to have found this group. It's nice to see all the different levels of runs that you folks do. I've always stuck with moderate trails but I'm wanting to step up my game and experience more difficult trails. Rig run down. 2011 JKU, 3.5" lift, Rubicon transfer case, D 60's, 38's on beadlocks. The 60's and beadlocks are upgrades currently in process. I'm currently struggling with getting the brakes bled properly, but soon will, one way or another. A few other minor details and I'll be ready for a little shakedown run.
  31. 2 points
    Due to popular demand, the 15th annual Dirt Gala will be back at the Cinders! Come spend the weekend camping with us at the O'Leary group site near Sunset Crater in your tent, trailer, or RV. Friday afternoon we'll do a short moderate trail ride into the Cinders OHV area, then on Saturday we'll take an easy trail behind the San Francisco Peaks over to a short hike in the Lava River Caves. Both trail rides are optional - you could also just hang out at camp, go into Flagstaff and play tourist, or explore on your own! Chock full of friends, family, games, prizes, laughter and dirt – there’s fun for everyone! So grab the whole family and join us. Don't be that person hearing about all the awesome stuff you missed for the next whole year! Sign up now! Note: This event is open to everyone, you do NOT need to be a club member to attend. LOCATION The O'Leary Group Site near Sunset Crater & The Cinders OHV area, just outside Flagstaff, AZ. Click here for directions... This is a semi-primitive group campsite with paved access, vault toilets, charcoal grills, tables, and a central shelter. Note that there are NO hookups, however the shelter does have a spigot and an 120v outlet for temporary use (blenders, etc.). Individual spots are NOT reserved within the group area and space is limited. If you have a Travel Trailer or RV, we recommend you get there early to secure a big enough spot! SIGN-UPS / TICKETS Please click here to visit our online store for your virtual 2024 Gala tickets. Just add whatever tickets you need to your cart and then be sure to check-out to complete your purchase with a credit card or Paypal. A camping ticket (Tent, Trailer, or Motorhome) includes admission for you and your immediate family! ONLY if you are NOT camping, then please purchase one "Attending but not camping (1 Adult)" ticket for each adult. Children are free! We'll add you to the attending list once you've purchased your virtual tickets. You must get tickets ahead of time to attend! Please note there are no refunds. This is ORP's annual fundraising event, and the reimbursement money for the campsite is our primary fundraising source. Our paid membership upgrades typically cover only our most basic operating costs and so we rely on this event to help fund the club/site. ITINERARY Friday (9/6) Arrive anytime after 2 PM. Setup your campsite, meet & greet people as they arrive! Optional: Line up rigs at 3:30 PM for the 4x4 moderate rated Cinders OHV area trail ride (must have a 4-low transfer case option & suitable tow points). Bring water and snacks (we may not be back to camp for dinner till around 7 or 8 PM). Dinner (self-prepared). Campfire social time, visit with old friends and get to know the new folks! Saturday (9/7) Optional: Line up rigs at 9 AM for the easy rated trail ride to the Lava River Caves (suitable for any high clearance vehicle). The hike is moderately strenuous over extremely uneven ground in the dark. Be sure to bring 2 light sources, a jacket or sweatshirt, and water for the hike. We'll return to camp by around 1 PM for lunch (self prepared). Late afternoon: The silly yet highly-competitive "Tire Valve Cap" game! 2 person teams, so partner up and practice your balance skills! Annual salsa & dip contest after the game (see below). Dinner time (self-prepared), then head back to the common area for... 50/50 raffle drawing, award prizes, and ORP announcements. More campfire social time! Sunday (9/8) Breakfast (self-prepared) Leisurely break camp, bid friends adieu & head home! Must to be out of group site by 11 AM. Annual Salsa & Dip Contest: Enter your homemade salsa or chip/veggie dip! Keep on ice until Saturday evening. Offroad Passport supplies the chips, but you're welcome to bring more. Everyone come hungry! Enjoy the chips, salsas and dips and VOTE for the winners! Salsa and dip contestants will compete for 1 prize this year. However, you can enter as many salsas/dips as you want! The winner gets to choose a new style ORP shirt! 50/50 Raffle: Back by popular demand is a 50/50 raffle! Tickets on sale Saturday afternoon/evening. 1 winning ticket drawn saturday evening. The winner gets 50% of the ticket sales! (the Club keeps the other half) $5 per ticket, or $20 for five tickets (bring some cash, there is no ATM machine on site) IMPORTANT NOTES This is a family-friendly event! Alcohol at camp is OK but please be responsible and respectful. ABSOLUTELY NO DRINKING & DRIVING! Click here to read ORP's Pet Policy... Please print, sign, and bring a copy of the event waiver with you. Click here for that form... Be sure to bring everything you need for meals including stoves/dishes/etc. HOW YOU CAN HELP! Bring 1 or 2 bundles of firewood for the community campfire. Bring your corn hole or other lawn games to play at camp. ORP swag (shirts, etc.) will be on display and available for purchase at special Gala discount prices! (bring some cash, there is no ATM machine on site) ATTENDING NOTE: Sign-ups are a little different this year, please see above for details! @theksmith & family -- 1 Travel Trailer + Vehicle, 1 Addon Tent, 1 Addon Vehicle @4x4tographer, @Yodamom & family -- 1 Motorhome, 1 Addon Vehicle @Mick Bowers -- 1 Tent + Vehicle @Bradywgn71 & @kaspily -- 1 Motorhome, 1 Addon Vehicle
  32. 2 points
    Wow, DanT that is quite an expensive adventure. I'm glad that no one was hurt, other than your pocketbook.... This area of the San Juans is just the most amazing! And Imogene is my fav!! Watch for future trips to this area and get signed up! smiles, ladybug
  33. 2 points
    Same here on being lost on these old deaf ears Jim... & I agree... Sweet install as always... ;)
  34. 2 points
    i've posted before about how satisfied i am with the OEM premium Alpine sound system (ever since i installed an aftermarket head unit anyway). that factory upgraded system consists of a small amplifier, Alpine component speakers front & rear, and a small oval subwoofer in the cargo area floor. my only complaint has been the little sub can't hit extremely low frequencies. there are several songs i like that are just missing certain bass notes - it was time to fix that! project goals improve very low bass response. specifically be able to hear the lowest couple of notes in Skrillex's Summit, C2C's F.U.Y.A., and Kendrick Lamar's Not Like Us not reduce visibility in my rearview mirror. not interfere with overland trips (i.e. not block my sleep platform or take away any essential storage spaces). not break the bank (stay under $500 grand total). i was hoping to be able to leave the new sub in the rig all the time by placing it on my Front Runner cargo shelf. however, as long as it was easily removable before a trip, then that would still meet goal #3. also, i wasn't trying to shake the windows, this was all about hearing the full range at reasonable volumes. initial tests i first tried a few slim 10" active enclosures, including a Sound Stream Labs LOPRO10 and an Alphasonik AS100A. they only made more bass volume, but didn't add the lower frequencies i was looking for. however, these early tests were promising in terms of the cargo shelf working as a mounting location - it didn't seem to have any major rattles even at higher volumes. this is likely because i used to carry my Hi-Lift jack on there and had added additional bracketry to wedge the shelf securely against the roll bar on both sides so it wouldn't sway with all that extra weight. after the disappointing performance of those 10" active subs, i decided that i needed to go up to a 12" sub with a separate amplifier to get any real volume below 40hz. sub/enclosure i've had good results with Pioneer shallow subs in previous vehicles so i purchased their 12" TS-A3000LS4. in terms of excursion, it can't compete with a JL Audio or Alpine shallow, but it's also 1/5th the price of those and still has better specs than any of the similarly priced "budget" slim subs (DS18, Rockville, etc.). after a little searching, i found this tiny QPower SHALLOW112 sealed enclosure that seemed like it might fit on the shelf and not block my view. based on conventional wisdom, i did add a small amount of Poly-Fill because the enclosure is slightly smaller that what Pioneer's minimum spec calls for. i actually tried the vented version of that same box first, but there was substantial port noise at higher volumes and i just really prefer the "tight" sound of a sealed box. my first test were done just ratchet-strapping the box to the shelf, but once i was satisfied this was going to work out, i made mounting ears out of 1/2" plywood strips from my scrap pile. then i was able to use M8 bolts in the t-slots of the Front Runner shelf to attach to those. i M8 tie-down rings in place of regular nuts so that the whole contraption is easily removable without tools. plus i now have additional places to attach bungee cords. here's a shot from my perspective looking in the rearview mirror - it worked out perfectly to not block any more visibility than the spare already does. amp space is at a premium in my rig, i've filled nearly every nook and cranny with something already. in fact, if it weren't for my air compressor being mounted under the passenger seat, i would have tried the Alpine JK under-seat 10" subwoofer first. so, i needed a really small amp if i hoped to find somewhere to stick it! it also had to be capable of 400W RMS into 4 Ohms in order to drive the Pioneer 12". i ended up with a tiny Sound Stream Labs RSM1.4000D class D monoblock. it's rated for 600W @ 4 ohms so that gave it plenty of headroom. in my experience these Pioneers can handle a bit more than they are rated at for a short period. therefore i wasn't too concerned about blowing the sub (plus the 600W rating is probably exaggerated a bit). thanks to the Sound Stream's miniscule package (9" x 3.75" x 1.75"), i was able to easily fit it beside the Bestop drawer (thanks @scottL) under my driver seat. wiring i already had 4 gauge power wire running to the compressor under the passenger seat, and had it fused at 100A. i tee'd off that to run power to the amp, and used a factory ground lug under the driver seat for the negative. the Sound Stream's terminals fit the 4AWG easily. the amp is rated at 90A max, and the compressor draws less than 80A - so as long as i don't run the amp at high volume while also airing up, then sharing the same wire and fuse should be fine. a 17ft set of stereo twisted-pair RCA's were run from my Pioneer headunit's sub output to the amp, along with an 18 AWG amp turn-on lead. i used 12 gauge speaker wire, which might be overkill even for this moderately long run. the amp's terminals fit the 12AWG just fine. i had to solder the bare ends of the wire and then flatten them with pliers to get them into the sub enclosure's spring terminals though i sheathed the speaker wire with some PET braided sleeve and ran it inside the front-most t-slot channel of the cargo shelf. tip: i recommend using only "pure copper", often sold as OFC (oxygen-free-copper), or "tinned copper" wiring in a vehicle. copper-clad aluminum (CCA) is cheaper but has less current handling capacity for any given gauge, and will break more easily if flexed over and over again. i took apart the SSL amp's remote level adjuster and wrapped the internals in heat-shrink so i could mount it with a more factory look... this OEM switch module to the left of the steering wheel was mostly empty space, so it was easy to modify it to include the remote level adjuster. dialing it in after some initial tweaking of all the settings, here are some RTA (real time analysis) graphs as the system sits. i may still do a little more tweaking, but I'm pretty happy with it as-is. note these are with EQ set to personal taste (i.e. not trying to hit a flat curve). i used the free REW application and a Dayton Audio IMM-6 calibrated mic with a TRRS extension cable. measurements were taken in the 1/12 octave RTA mode with psychoacoustic smoothing applied. the "Y" axis is uncalibrated SPL. here is the "before" (blue line) compared to the new sub set at 10% on the remote level knob (green). the system previously dropped off fast below 40hz. the new sub hits 26hz at that same SPL and then falls off slower than before. the above graph was with the sub's polarity reversed, as it seemed louder that way when i first installed it. however, after getting all the other settings dialed in, i tried flipping it back to straight polarity and that actually made a big difference at lower levels (below in purple). it widened the new peak SPL range while also improving the performance all the way to the bottom. here's the "before" along with the new sub at 10%, 30% and 100% levels on the remote knob. this is with the gain on the amp and the output level on the head unit set a little conservative as to not likely clip or over-power the sub even if where to crank up the master volume a bit more. conclusion since i already had some of the wire and miscellaneous other materials, this project cost me just under $350. the solution met all my stated goals and i'm very pleased with the overall sound!
  35. 2 points
    I afraid your efforts would be wasted on my mostly dead ears. However, as always I admire your clean installation and attention to detail. Your ideas for mounting the control switch are next level
  36. 2 points
    Ryan, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.” I’m using your idea to run a more robust DC feed for my fridge and two Jackery power units/inverters. I used a Blue Sea fuse panel mounted on the back of the drawer boxes and a Mega Fuse in the engine bay to protect the Blue Sea. I wired individual circuits for each device with the correct plugs. (The Jackery units have different inputs connections based size.)
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    If I have not said it before or yet welcome to ORP, if I have I'll say it again! I am going to try and get there again next year sometime if not in 2026 for the 4th of July. I have already started hunting down lodging. Irresponsible SXS drivers ruin it for the responsible ones sadly.
  39. 2 points
    Fantastic write up and great photos @shellback91! Sounds like the trip of a lifetime! Imogene looks amazeballs. I feel ya on the breathing. I have a hard enough time my first day or two in Flagstaff 😅 How’d everyone’s rigs do up there at elevation?
  40. 2 points
    Welcome to ORP Dan!
  41. 2 points
    One funny thing to mention is my wife gained the nickname of Marmot thanks to @DanT. 🤣 The marmot's were out in force this week and she spotted them and called them out both days.
  42. 2 points
    Steve and I are just being car nerds.😁
  43. 2 points
    Would this be a good time to mention the Volkswagon Beetles with the Automatic Stick Shift? :)
  44. 2 points
    Oddly enough ... Automatics have clutch inside them as well... ;)
  45. 2 points
    over the last couple months, Gadget developed a mild shimmy when hitting certain bumps while turning. had tires rotated and balanced to no avail. i was running about 1/16" of toe-in over a 2ft span (whatever degrees that works out to) - so i tried a little more, but that didn't help either. so i tried a little less, a half turn on my Synergy tie-rod adjuster back from my original starting point, and that seemed to do the trick! so, anyone else keep crib notes on their workbench? :)
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    that was my first thought when i saw the rotor - however the caliper seemed to float ok, it moved on the slide pins freely. also, compressing the actual pistons to make room for the new pads required the same force on both driver and passenger side (using a c-clamp). the only other thing i could think was that a clip got loose and was somehow wedged in there. by the time i took it apart, it was missing one clip and one was severly mangled - but obviously the pad had traveled further than it was ever designed to at that point. i'll check them often over the next little bit and see if there is any indication of that side starting to wear faster again. i guess i could check temps on both sides after driving a bit and see if that side is getting hotter (i.e. dragging). as far as i know the rotors in this big brake kit are custom and only available from Teraflex. it was $160 with tax & shipping.
  48. 2 points
    Brady installed some chinese JKS clone disconnects off Amazon this morning. several reviewers said the bushings didn't last long in them. fortunately i happen to have a set of real JKS replacement bushings in my pile of parts, so we preemptively swapped those in. i also still had the little hold-up loops that i had made when i ran regular disconnects on my rig, so he was able to have those too.
  49. 1 point
    70,460 miles Oil change today. 7,000 miles since the last change. Oil consumption appears to have stopped since @OnPointOffroad replaced my leaky oil cooler. No oil consumption at all - measures 5qts coming back out. 🙂 Last change it had consumed 1/2 quart. Still running Mobil1 Full Synthetic in 0w20. Scored a combo deal at AutoZone with Mobil1 and a Mopar filter, $35 off! Constantly have trouble finding cabin air filters locally (2 Autozones and an O'Reilly) - they're always out.
  50. 1 point
    this evening's project was replacing the driver seat bottom cushion (Mopar part #68194641aa, about $230). my old repair (done back in 2019) was still holding the original foam together, but the side bolster i patched in eventually got soft and smooshed just like the OEM. the whole cushion had my butt pressing it down for nearly 170k miles now, so it was time to just do a full replacement. the original foam showing my old fixes: the new one is a different color of foam and seems springier than i remember the original ever being. i used 3M Super 90 spray adhesive (basicly a contact cement) to attach the original heating element to the new foam. the leather above the side bolster had started to fold over and crease, but was still holding together... i reinforced it on the back side with some old t-shirt fabric and more 3M spray adhesive (the red), my first attempt to stiffen up the side (blue) is still holding strong. this whole project took about 30 minutes and besides sockets/wrenches, it only requires some decent side cutters, hog ring pliers, and a few new hog rings. all back together with a stiff outside bolster and i don't sink down in the cushion as much anymore. there's a nice firm but springy feel to it. in the photo above, you can see the front outer corner of the leather is worn near the seam quite a bit. i'm sure i'll have to replace the whole lower cover before too long. hoping to get a couple more years out of it though.
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