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GRUNT

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GRUNT last won the day on March 1

GRUNT had the most liked content!

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About GRUNT

  • Rank
    Trail Blazer

Basic Info

  • Rig
    93 YJ(LS powered)
  • Location
    Queen Creek, AZ.

My Details

  • First Name
    Allen
  • Experience Level
    Advanced
  • Preferred Trail Rating
    Moderate
  • HAM Call-sign
    KE7TOG

Recent Profile Visitors

915 profile views
  1. @ob1jeeper are you all trailering Ol' Blue behind the RV? I am debating trailering my Jeep up so I don't burn through 2 tanks of fuel just getting there.
  2. @theksmith is this the same park that you, red Jeep Lance(Moondust,) and I stated in all those years ago? Remember, we watched the sun set behind Jerome and then all three turned in unison to watch the full moon come up? I don't think the sites were paved back then.
  3. GRUNT

    Tools & Usage

    TOOLS EXPLAINED DRILL PRESS : A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL : Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t' DROP SAW : A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS : Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER : An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW : One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH : Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. TABLE SAW : A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW : A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST : A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER : Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER : A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR : A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER : A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER : Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE : Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted buckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity. Son of a bitch TOOL : Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a b*tch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
  4. I would like to do this, too. Maybe we can plan a trip in the future.
  5. I have two gas cans, the green ones we all ordered over 12 years ago, that have been sitting out in the shed. I thought I drained them prior to my Jeep being sidelined a decade ago. Alas, I did not. One still has a few gallons of gas. Does anybody have constructive ideas on how to dispose of the fuel? Is there a need and a way to wash them out? Thanks for any input you can lend.
  6. Amazing write up, @theksmith! And I agree that Heavy Metal Sled would be a perfect metal band name!!!
  7. GRUNT

    Grunt's 93 YJ

    Some of it may very well be. The frame forward of the tub was ground down and repainted while the old 2.5 was out, and before the 5.3 went in. She has been up North around the Show Low area stretching her legs and has had an extensive wash down. I am finding some areas where the mud has been eluding me. You should have seen it when I folded the windshield down!
  8. GRUNT

    Grunt's 93 YJ

    Yesterday I changed out my pitman arm for a new one. You see, the pitman arm was an aftermarket one I had put on when I originally lifted my Jeep. Since then, the YJ has increased her front end weight. It originally had the 2.5L motor, additions of both a Warn winch and a GM 5.3L V8 have caused the tired front leaf springs to sag. This in turn caused the contact between steering linkage components when the suspension cycled. It had been happening prior to the addition of the V8, I just wasn't as aware as I should have been. It was a quick change out, minus the time spent prepping the new pitman arm, due to finally treating myself to a used tool cart off of Offer Up. Perhaps I will add my refurbishing of the cart story later. All kidding aside, this helped me stay organized, having staged all my tools ahead of time. I used to grab a couple and then find myself traveling back to the big toolboxes several times, as well as having sockets roll away. For this I used the following tools: Pitman arm puller Large 1/2" drive torque wrench Small 1/2" drive torque wrench Breaker bar 1/2" drive, 3/4" Deep well socket 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter 3/4" drive, 1 5/16" socket 3/4" wrench Needle nose pliers Pliers Magnetic bowl Hammer Deadblow hammer Rustolium self etching primer - Grey Rustolium - Flat black Flathead screwdriver (not used) Phillips head screwdriver (not used) Sharpie (not used) You can see the angle the drag link is at. During cycling of the suspension, the end of the drag link would come into contact with the tie rod. I chose to remove the current aftermarket pitman arm and replace it with an original version. Below you will see a side by side comparison, where you can readily see the significant difference. The new pitman arm came in bare metal and as such, I had to prep and paint it. I wiped it down with mineral spirits and then applied a coat of self etching primer. That was followed by two coats of flat black paint. Prior to the primer and paint, I used foam pieces to plug the holes to keep the paint out of the splines. To remove the pitman arm, I had to remove the cotter pin and nut that retained the drag link end. This was done with the needle nose pliers and a combination of the 3/4" wrench and the 3/4" socket. Once apart, I noticed the the drag link end had a cracked boot. I have ordered the part and will be replacing that this week. Once the drag link was out of the way I used the pitman arm removal tool to ease the aftermarket pitman arm off of the gear box. If you are removing a pitman arm, always use the proper tool to avoid damage to the steering shaft or gear box. Once off, I had to gently coax the new pitman arm on. It had 4 larger splines to help orient the part, but was a snug fit. after I assured myself it was lined up evenly, I used the dead blow hammer to slowly apply pressure and seat the pitman arm. After it was on far enough, I tightened down the lock washer and nut, pushing the pitman arm further onto the steering shaft. I seated the nut using the required amount of torque, 185 lbs. I then placed the drag link end back into the pitman arm. I used the 3/4" socket to tighten the bolt. I finished tightening the nut using the small torque wrench as this nut only required 35 lbs. Once in place, I placed a new cotter pin through the nut. This greatly improved clearance between the drag link and the tie rod. In the pictures below, you can see the multiple areas where the drag link end and the adjustment made contact with the tie rod. As stated before, this had been happening prior to the installation of the new heavier drive train. You can also see where the zert fitting for the drag link end had been ripped off/knocked out. In a future write up, I will replace the boot for the drag link end and replace the zert fitting.
  9. GRUNT

    Grunt's 93 YJ

    Where has the time gone? Well, the YJ and I are back. I have 10 years of fixing and write ups to fill everyone in on. Instead of starting yet another thread, I will just add to this one. It is good to be back.
  10. Installed a different(stock) pitman arm to reduce the instance of contact with my other steering components. Before: After:
  11. Just made it home. Thanks for a fun trip! It was great seeing all my old friends and meeting new people. Looking forward to more trips.
  12. Correction, I found out in a video that the wire is a motor ground and just needs to go to the vehicle somewhere.
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