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Doctor W

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About Doctor W

  • Rank
    Newbie

Basic Info

  • Rig
    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
  • Location
    Sydney, NSW,& Cairns Queensland Australia
  1. I purchased an AGM type battery, Dual Purpose, 75Amp Hours, 580 CCA for my 1997 ZJ Limited......I've had it for a year and a quarter so far (2 Year Full Replacment Warranty)....It just fits into the standard battery tray (only just!).....and it's been great!.....When I go out bush camping here in Northern Australia it has thus far not required me to fit a second battery, although a dual system is in the future planning. I've mounted a digital Voltmeter that reads to one decimal place and find that if I don't go below 12.1V under normal circumstances I can always start the car after about 24 hours use of occasional interior lights, 4 - 9 hours use of laptop (via a multi volt converter that gives me 19V) for PC, and /or TV, and/or DVD. A large permanently fixed to the roof (between the factory roof rails, in front of my roof basket) 80 Watt Photovoltaic panel is planned - then I can run my Waeco when stopped, not just when running or for judiciously monitored periods when parked up. Currently I recharge the battery via the standard 138 Amp Jeep alternator by idling for an hour or of course when leaving camp. I'm really very happy with my AGM, I can't remember the brand but it's a good Chinese made (if that's possible...lol) to Australian design and specification similar to the Full River (??) brand. I chose it over an Optima because the odd spiral shape of the Optima results in a lower Amp/Hour rating when compred to the size of the footprint of the two batteries......55 A/H versus 75A/H and the construction method of lead plates within fibreglass still gives very high strenght and the warranty is very good with great after sales service and advice etc from the Australian makers.
  2. This actually a very common fault with the Jeep 4.0 six......I got the complete set of O-rings from a Jeep dealer for only about $AU 11.00 - which I thought was incredibly cheap for the full set of correct O-rings. I guess that even though Australian dollars are worth more than US, you'd still have to ship them over here so the US price should be in the same ballpark. I notice that your filter fitting was attached with a common hex head bolt, my 97 build ZJ had a male Torx bolt, and it was really tight all the way till it came off!
  3. The U.S. made Carter brand is sold by rockauto.com for about $100 less than the Bosch (they stock that too) and I've found it to be as silent as the original ( OEM Nippondenso). I had to change mine abut six months ago......crazy Jeep design with NO ACCESS via floor has been solved by a bit of customization with a sawzall!
  4. I would check the free "lash" in the steering box. The lock nut is backed off and lash adjusted out (with wheels OFF the ground) whilst rocking the steering wheel about 1"- 2" ....a 2 man job, but very quick and easy. On my European (Steyr) built ZJ the lash adjuster is a female Torx fitting, but your US built Jeep may be Allen key type.
  5. It's a Ford thing.....you wouldn't understand - unless you'd ever owned one (a Ford)!...... I had a 4x2 Ford (Australia) pickup/ utility truck and the thing dropped a rear wheel into a hole and wouldn't drive out.....so I got a hi-lift to jack it up to make it fall over sideways, out of the hole.......well, I ended up bending the thing like a banana.....like in this clip, but bent up not down.
  6. Don't they have a Dana 44A -"A" for aluminium????as in the body/external case is made of aluminium, not like the D44 used in JK's and other Jeeps..........not a common rear end, and not popular because there's not a lot of choice in bits and pieces or options for it.
  7. OK, it's 50% do-able on the trail.......you can break the bead off the rim - but how are you gonna refit it?.....a compressor will not do it (I know that from experience) nor will (I think) most compressed air/CO2 tanks....in a tyre shop they use large volumes of air supplied really quickly to seat it and then pump up to say 40-60 (or max permissable pressure for that tyre) to finally pop the bead on.....this just isn't possible with "our" sized compressors or tanks......Maybe the old tournequet technique, but they used to use that on cross ply tyres, with soft treads and rigid sidewalls, steel radials are the exact opposite. I've also read ( in JP magazine) how they had to try THREE different tyre workshop machines before they could mount the bead on one of those new Goodyear Kevlar MTR's they are sooo strong in the carcass! I've often thought about carrying a tube to try and stuff in.......makes you realize why a lot of people prefer split rims and use tube tyres and carry tire irons....... Unless your expedition has a couple of Kamaz back-up trucks with full workshops a la Dakar!
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