SonoranWanderer

I made it a point to measure the last Jeep's height before and after just to see. That said, your Jeep may not weigh as much as other Jeep trims/configurations the lift is also targeted for, and your new springs may still settle a little over the near future.

Scout route GPX uploads are supposed to meet the same quality standards as normal write-up GPX files. Scouts uploading trails are on contract and are paid by the mile (uploaded). Scout Route GPX files and write-ups are also reviewed by senior TOR personal before being published. I can tell you the person reviewing AZ uploads (Wade) is "fussy" about the GPX quality, and rightfully so. The main point of TOR (regular or scout routes) is that each trail has been driven, as presented very near to the date published, to ensure accuracy and currency. And speaking for myself, route GPX files I upload have been carefully cleaned (edited) prior to uploading to remove "parking drift" and side trails (or missed turns) not pertinent to the route being described. I personally also use two independent GPS devices to record and validate the primary against the secondary recorded route to ensure best accuracy. ====== If anyone is interested in learning how I edit so you can build your own clean GPX files for whatever purpose, as a TOR scout, or just to hand out GPX files to friends and such, I am happy to show you. Overview: I use Garmin Basecamp. I have OSM map files downloaded into Basecamp so the software solution is completely free ($$). I then import my recorded GPX files from both GPS devices (Gaia on an IPad, Garmin Montana 700i). I will take the higher resolution recording (Gaia usually) and duplicate it for editing (keeping the original untouched) I will then use the Basecamp detailed GPX viewer to remove any excess trail lead-in and excess follow out I then begin to closely inspect the path for instances of parking drift. Places where I stopped and the GPS recorded multiple "points" but due to natural GPS drift, may appear to having my traveling and a tight circle I use the GPX viewer to selectively remove the excess recorded points I will then edit out any side trails (eg: exploring camping options), missed turns, backups, etc... GPX viewer to remove excess data points I will then visually (re)validate the edited route as true to both of the original recordings I do NOT validate that the recording follows trails as shown on the map as map data may be outdated or plain incorrect. I may use map data to split a single recording into multiple named trails TRO is changing their standards to record each named road/trail by itself instead of arbitrary complex routes The trails I upload are true to the path you need to travel to successfully complete the route. This is the intended outcome of TOR

I built my own 4-tire harness out of Amazon sourced parts. Observations: I don't use it to deflate because I already have field tunable deflators that are fairly easy and quick. in this case the harness neither saved time nor made it significantly easier I do use the harness to inflate using a 14CFM dual output portable compressor, it doesn't really save time for inflation strictly speaking, but I have freedom to roam and chat or do other post ride stuff on the Jeep while inflating. Using the four tire harness satisfies my OCD about having the same pressure in each tire on pavement. If anyone else needs an inflate, having them pull up to the front of my rig makes their inflation go super fast after I finish mine. My pump has a 100% duty cycle as compared to most portables that have 33% duty cycles. Design: It is actually composed of two independent two-tire harnesses, so I can use only half the system at once if I need to (say a damaged chuck or split hose) The split system also takes advantage of my main pump's dual output plenum for maximum CFM out 3/8" hose for high airflow Each leg can go from the nose of the vehicle where the pump is likely to sit to the rear tire of a Gladiator with a safe amount of slack I have three jeeps I move this back and forth between, including a Gladiator. Normally closed chucks incase on pops off a valve stem Each half harness has a source-end shutoff valve to allow for connecting to tires before the pump, or for deflation usage. Each half has a port for the other half to plug-in in case I need to use a single output compressor This also is how I intended to support 4-tire balanced deflation Each half has a built-in air gauge, one half has a digital (easy, precision quick read), the other an analog (in case of a dead battery) I have adaptors for common single output air compressors, male, female, 1/4, 3/8 I have three portable pumps in my collection and none of them have the same output port Also useful if my pump blows up in the field and I need to borrow someone else's I actually built two separate split harnesses (4 two-tire legs) for around $100-ish each in hose related parts I spent more buying some custom tools I did not already have Two total setups because the best value in 3/8 hose at the time was more than twice as much hose as I required for one harness. And I was only a few part short of the second full setup when I finished the first. Doesn't include the cost of the four bags each leg is stored in. Why yes I am an OVER Engineer. What made you ask? If you don't have the tools (nor time), the costs of a pre-built kit is not a huge amount more and generally worth it. As long as it is designed to meet your specific needs. But to have the flexibility I have, they will nickel and dime you to death, split usage, dual output air pump support, various size and gender adaptors, digital/analog gauge redundancy and such. I do recommend paying attention to the core hose size and the flow size of any harness plenums. It kinds sucks to have a distribution system can can't distribute the maximum air flow your 4 valve stems could all take at once. I like to make sure the valve stems are the limiting factor. At some point I am going to build an air harness into the vehicle frame, at least the core distribution system to each wheel/corner. Mainly because I am lazy, and this is easier even if I continue to use a portable pump. But if you truly want to save time, this is the only way to go. Getting the full harness out and putting it away kills any time you same in being able to pump once.

A few more notes on the FTM-400: Do not use CHIRP to manage the radio config if you want to be able to return the radio for (free) warranty repair. CHIRP has been known to brick the occasional Yaesu. I would update your firmware if it's not already the latest release before you invest too much time building the radio config. Major firmware updates completely reset your radio and invalidate any existing radio config backups you may have The MARS/CAP mod (removing one resistor) behaves like a major firmware update and invalidates any config backups you have Building a computer managed config using either Yaesu's ADMS or RT-Systems requires starting with a radio backup. The backup structure changes for MARS/CAP and major firmware updates, hence having to start all over. This is true for all Yaesu digital radios I have worked with so far (FTM-400, FT-2D, FT-5D). Fortunately these restart occasions are few. I find the 400's built-in speaker fairly anemic in volume (especially in a Jeep) and use an external Yaesu MLS-200-M10. If you want to use a non-Yaesu speaker, you need that "headphone adaptor" that came in the box to not damage the radio's audio amplifier. I do appreciate that the upcoming FTM-500 attempts to fix this by putting a loud speaker in the head unit.

I just noticed this thread. I have three FTM-400 units cross our Jeep "fleet". Feel free to fire away with any questions. Obviously anyone wanting one now and doesn't have one may have a harder time since the unit is discontinued. I like the radio overall. I do think the upcoming FTM-500 will improve on a few aspects, but sadly be not as good on a few others. I will not be in any hurry to update any of my 400s to a 500. I use the RT Systems software and 32GB SD cards to manage the configuration of my 400 radios. The radios will not accept/use any cards larger than 32GB. I have also applied the MARS/CAP mod to all three of my radios. (opening up transmit on GMRS frequencies)

On the JL, I don't have the Teraflex hubs, but I did do the 4-wheel Teraflex big brake kit and it's was well worth it. The 37s not only stop on a dime, they pick it up!

Reserved!

@theksmith Noted and reserved. For everyone else, more items added.

Edit 20230130 1830 - added a few more items Edit 20230201 0930 - more items, cross out some items no longer available ===== Free to good home. Trying to make my wife happy and clean out the garage, and YOU can help! I have the following items that need a new home: Bag of common trail repair 3.8L engine parts (hose, belt, tensioner, idle pulley) 3.8L fan control module Passenger side rear (red) tow hook for JK. Does not work with JL! Full kit: hook, in-frame backing plate, bolts Newer JKs (2015+ I think) have the holes in the frame factory drilled SuperChips programmer for 07-11 JK (will need to contact and pay for a reset from SC) Tailgate CB antenna mount, driver's side '07-18 (with cable) Third tail light for JK from the stock tire mount OEM replacement carpet clips (3) Radio antenna conversion kit to combine CB with AM/FM antenna for JK, supposedly can work for JL too Over rearview mirror CB mount for JK Rugged Ridge/Omix Ada replacement driver's side door hinge for JK. This is just the door component. Quadratec front and rear mud flaps for JK stock fenders JKS 0-2" lift front swaybar disconnects for JL or JT KC light rock guards (2) KC stocking (you Jeep deserves Christmas too!) Ok, even Yotas deserve some xmas love... Tailgate CB antenna mount, passenger's side '07-18 (bracket only) JK under front seat mounting bracket for air compressor, amplifier, or communications radios Does not fit JL or JT Set of 23 JK OEM acorn lug nuts (well used) Set of 20 JL/JT acorn M14 lug nuts plus three lock nuts with lock key Set of 25 7-spline M14x1.5 black lug nuts (fits JL or JT, not JK) Includes 2 lug keys Not a standard spline count, good for annoying both the tire shop and wheel thieves 8 ton Vault Cargo snatch block with grease bearing (good for UTV winches) - never used Not recommended for use with 10k or 12k winches 20 ft, 10000 lb Vault Cargo tow/tree strap (30k break strength) - never used 8 ft, 10000 lb Vault Cargo tow/tree strap (30k break strength) - never used My bad pack rat habits, possibly your gain. I hate to just toss it if anyone could use any of these parts and pieces

I had never had a factory bolt back out either, until it just did a few weeks ago. 😃 I'm kinda still in "shock" over that back-out since most Chrysler/Jeep factory frame bolts come with a Loctite 242 like substance on them. I mean I suppose somebody could have just stolen it (sarcasm, not likely, but hey who knows). It is a mild pain to go order one or try and find a M12x1.5 10.9 (SAE grade 8) locally. Speaking of which I need to order one since all I found locally so far were metric 8.8 (SAE grade 5).

Having just had a factory (10.9) skid plate bolt back itself out and drop off ('18 JLUR), do you not worry about that problem with the anti-sieze?

It looks like nobody is signed up for ice yet, I can bring that.

Count me in. Likely tent camping, possibly teardrop sized trailer.

I am in. Just myself.

An external antenna (to the vehicle) fixes both the "around the corners" and distance issues. That's why I had a whole write-up on my El Camino run on strongly encouraging an external antenna. Also with handheld GMRS, like handheld HAM, as the battery fades (voltage drops), range decreases. Some cheaper GMRS and HAM handheld radios also are not known for transmitting at the true power they advertise (you get what you pay for?).