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Ballistix

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About Ballistix

  • Rank
    4x4 Curious

Basic Info

  • Rig
    Wrangler
  • Location
    LA, CA, USA

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  1. Not to hijack the thread here, but does anyone have any recommendations on particular Tried-n-True™ HAM or CB radio models?
  2. The day has finally come, folks!!! She lives (for more than 3 seconds) with the push of a button! Wiring in the blue fuel pump line definitely helped, but it still kept dying after three seconds (almost tipped at this point...). But I decided to perform the 5x3x5 ritual one more time and that did the trick. For any future folks looking to run this mod, ignore the manual, and press the remote start button THREE times instead of the manual-prescribed TWO, in order to get the longest crank time. Thank you, theksmith, for putting this mod together and thank you for sticking along for the ride. And also thank you everyone one else that helped along the way as well. This is the first mod I've installed on my Jeep since I got her in January, but definitely not the last. -Ballistix
  3. Hi all, Finally got some time in with the rig today, but no forward progress. Got the LED wired in and was able to visually see the feedback from the system. Did the standard 5x3x5 to prolong crank, but still shutting down after a second or so from start. Two things i think might be causing this: A. I looked in the manual again and it says in order to get to the 1.8 crank time, the button should be pressed twice, as three times resets it back to the default .8 seconds. B. There was some talk about a blue wire needed to be patched or re-wired back into the system. Could this also be causing this issue? Also on another note: does anyone know what setting would need to be changed to unlock all doors on approaching the vehicle, i noticed mine only unlocks driver's door. Would be handy to have all open when coming in with a armful of groceries or the like. Thanks for the extra help, feel like I'm so close to this, hate to rip it all out.
  4. More success today, with some other failures.... Got the LED wired in and got the responses from the system. Configured the system and saw all the right flashes at the right time. However, to get this far, I had to do some soldering of the wires and used the 115v outlet on the Jeep without cranking the engine, which I think killed the battery. Jumped it and got it running again, but every time I try to start the system with the push button, the battery drains out again. So now, I'll be using the factory key until I can get a new battery put in. Ordered a Optima YellowTop. Have you noticed the system putting an extra strain on your battery system? Or is it just my battery/bad luck? Will update.
  5. Yup, wired that in wrong. I'll have to take a look at it again this weekend. Thanks for the update to the sequence.
  6. Taking off the shroud is pretty easy. Just don't ham-fist it like I did and snap it off. There's a few screws on the underside of the shroud, take those off first, the rest will come apart. Bluetooth would be interesting, would probably need another module installed somewhere along the line.
  7. Hmm, tried this out just now and I can't get any feedback from the system at all. Also looking back at your piezo/LED post, I think I may have wired it in wrong. You mentioned that it's a negative output, should I wire it in backwards then? (red of the LED to COMMON GROUND and black of LED to the Pink output wire?) I was getting faint flashes yesterday, so I assumed I was on the right path. Got the same LED. Maybe I should get a buzzer or something to really be able to capture the output. Can you also confirm here that you pressed the lock button to change the settings and not the start button, like the manual says. (Saw your note about how it differs from manual, but wanted to make sure that was the difference and not the number of presses required.)
  8. Holding the button for 4-ish seconds without brake pedal does start the car, but still cuts out after a second. The fob start seems to last about 5 seconds before it cuts out. Thanks for retrying the procedure again, soooo close.....
  9. Success!! (A little bit.) Looks like grounding that GWR wire really helped. ; ) I finally got the car to start now with the Start button, but now it only stays on for about a second, and then cuts out. If I start it with the factory fob or key, it starts and stays on fine. I tired getting into the configuration with the brake pedal and the fob, but couldn't get the crank timer setting to change. I kept getting the single flash/beep for the default crank time of .8 seconds. (Installed that LED to see the feedback from the system.) Besides that config, is there anything else I'm missing? I have the relay and resistors back in place and everything should be fully wired up.
  10. Hi all, Sorry for the late responses, just got back from out of town. I saw the missing orange wire post as soon as I was about to leave and figured it was best left till i got back. I actually plan on redoing the entire harness, since some of the wire are shorter in length than others. So I went out and got some extra wire and will make the entire thing one uniform length. @evilteam - Glad to see you working on this project too, and having more success than me. I saw on your profile tab that you're running a Dodge Ram? Is that the car you're working on with this?
  11. Some new findings today. Got on the phone with Omega, and they recommended that I have everything hooked up before I try to program the module. I gave it a shot and actually got the Easyguard start button to change color from blue to green! (never got that far.) Still no turn over, though. might give them a call again tomorrow to see what they have to say.
  12. Yeah, I never get any feedback from the omega once the learning is "successful". I'll take a look at flashing options and see what works.
  13. Another thing I noticed, when going through the programming steps for the Omega module. One of the steps says that the led should go solid red, but it never does. Also after setting the programming style (hardwire or data), my module starts flashing red, which according to the troubleshooting points to "missing or wrong information from firmware or vehicle." Did you run into that when you flashed? (I realize that was ages ago)
  14. Just removed the relay and cut the resistors out, no luck. Also ran continuity all the way from the 4P F connector on the Omega module to the 3P connector on the Easyguard. Same for the 6P and 10P, all good. I even cut the brake pedal wire that we spliced into the brake switch and hooked straight in, like the manual says (for a 5 sec push), and still no luck. It seems like something along the line never sends the signal to the car to actually crank. Also noticed that I can't even get into accessory mode either(foot off the brake). Going to double check my wiring to make sure. Could I ask you to do the same? Perhaps a last minute switch or change-out might not have gotten recorded. Just double checked the config on the Omega module and it seems ok as well. One more thing that occurred to me. Did you zip tie the yellow interlock plug at all like ulyssefreak1 did on his job, or did you just zip tie it to keep it out of the way? I can't help but think that the transponder needs to be involved at this level, but i have the factory key on me during all these tests.
  15. Looks like we have some successes today. I removed everything from the Omega harness except the Omega module and tested my flashing. Everything seemed to work (unlock, lock, and remote start) just fine, so I am going to assume that my flash was successful? Fault 1: I had dip switches set to all up, instead of all up, 5 down. Fixed that. Resolution 1: The Easyguard system is now unlocking and locking as I approach and leave the vehicle. Note: I did remove all sources of power from the Easyguard before modifying the switches. Fault 2: Brake light switch was fully depressed causing brake light issue. Resolution 2: Fully extended the plunger from the switch, pressed the brake pedal all the way in, and released it onto the switch and let it auto-adjust itself. Now for the persisting issues: Issue 1: Still can't get the car to start up with the push button start. Tired the 5 second method too, but with no luck. When I press down on the brake pedal, I can hear many things whirring in the background. The start button also flashes when I press down on the brake pedal, I hear solenoids click in the background as well, but nothing happens. Issue 2: I can't seem to get into the secret menus of the Easyguard system either. I tried both the Parameter time prolong setting and the Turn off central door locking automation, but I couldn't get the feedback from the system saying the setting changed successfully. Is there a trick to this? I am assuming that I need to see the screen for the timer prolong, but I'm not sure how to get to it. Issue 3: It seems once I use the OEM Jeep key, the Easyguard system backs out and doesn't take control anymore. I started the vehicle with the key, turned it off, and walked away, but the doors didn't lock. When I got back in the car with the fob on me and pressed on the brake pedal, the start button didn't flash anymore either. The only way to get it to come back was to remove power from the Easyguard and power it back on. Is this working as intended? Answers from previous questions: - can you hear the door lock solenoids clicking when you do the lock & unlock buttons on the fob? --I do now, yes. But there is a significant delay between pressing the button and the action occurring. - will it try to start if you hold down the start button on the fob for 3 seconds (regardless of brake pedal position)? --No, it will not. - is the big push-to-start button lit up? does it blink when you press the brake pedal? --the button does light up when the fob is near, and flash when the brake pedal is pushed in. - does the push-to-start button ever change colors? what if you hold it for 5 seconds, release it, and then wait a couple more seconds?
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