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theksmith

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theksmith last won the day on June 25

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About theksmith

  • Rank
    Expedition Expert

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  • Rig
    2016 JKUR
  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ

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  1. that would be awesome - for $10k it'll have to go on my list right below a small CNC router strong/stable enough to machine aluminum consistently
  2. booty poser photo while out getting some things dialed in
  3. installed the new sway-bar links, adjusted them as long as possible without hitting the tire, then double checked they still clear when aired down and fully flexed out. the rear now out-flexes the front because of the AutoLynx limiting me just a bit up there. i think i can finally consider this whole rear shock flip/relocate project done and dialed in!
  4. @jgaz - did you have to assist with any rescues related to this?
  5. article here: https://www.yahoo.com/news/why-hundreds-grand-canyon-tourists-180339241.html
  6. "Stellantis is recalling nearly 140,000 Jeep and Ram models equipped with its 3.0-liter EcoDiesel six-cylinder to address potential high-pressure fuel pump failures that can render vehicles undrivable." More info here: https://autos.yahoo.com/jeep-ram-ecodiesels-recalled-fuel-143500407.html
  7. the driver side slider got a last coat of paint and i finished up all the welding for the passenger side. Gadget looked like a predator this morning - hiding in her burrow, watching and waiting to pounce!
  8. that was my first idea too (the kind in the regular caulking tube)! mainly because i was thinking it might be more elastic. but, i already had some glazing putty on hand so i went with that
  9. sure i could have, but i originally only welded the bottom for the entire length and then thought stitch-welding the top edges would be sufficient (andt it should be structurally). since it was already painted before i decided that i didn't like that look, it was just quicker and easier to use filler than sand it back to bare metal to weld... however i've been advised by someone more experienced in this area that my application is in fact too thick for that glazing putty and it will probably crack out quickly. so i may be welding it all soon after all!
  10. still working on finalizing this project... i drilled new holes in the Evo shock relocation brackets so they could mount a little lower and also changed out my homegrown 4.5" bump stop extensions for new 4" ones. i had to flip the upper trackbar bolt as it was hitting the new extension on the passenger side. the new setup worked out just right as far as not bottoming out the shocks and i'm happy with the balance of clearance, up-travel, and droop. i think my final issues are just with the sway-bar & links. the link on the driver's side now contacts the brake caliper on full droop. i also realized that i was wrong about whether the sway-bar was in danger of ever inverting - it could in fact flip over if the axle fully droops. i had only checked before with one side at a time down (under full articulation). i bought some JKS 2943 Rear Adjustable Swaybar End Links, but haven't installed them yet. i think adjusting them to just a bit longer than the current links will solve those issues and still clear the tire sidewall.
  11. i thought i had the drivers side finished, but i didn't really like the look of the raw stitch welds... so i'm smoothing it over with spot/glazing putty, hopefully it doesn't all just pop-out on the first hard hit. and finally getting started on the passenger side today...
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