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theksmith

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theksmith last won the day on July 3

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About theksmith

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    Expedition Expert

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  • Rig
    2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon
  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ

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  1. i always use the low pressure "spotless rinse" setting at the car wash if they have that - or else hold the spray wand really far away so that i don't force water into any connectors. everything in these modern engine bays seems to be pretty darn watertight as long as you aren't blasting it hard. oh - double check all your caps are on tight. i once had a broken brake reservoir cap on the WJ and didn't know it... it flew off as soon as the water hit. i had to try and suck the water and polluted fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster and then flush the whole system multiple times.
  2. this weekend i also made a couple tweaks to the on-board water system...
  3. i had read elsewhere that only the Rubicon models had it... so it's obviously not strictly necessary, but i don't really know for sure why they bother to put it in some models.
  4. a couple minor tweaks... leaky flush tee the Dorman flush tee i had installed as a fill/bleed port at the new high-point in the system was leaking a tad. i didn't like that plastic thing when i got it and had already purchased a metal replacement from For Seasons but just not gotten around to installing it. leaky part: replacement: too hot! after idling for a long time or doing a slow 4-low rock crawl type trail and then using the water, i was still getting an initial surge of scalding water. i talked about trying to insulate the supply line to prevent this before: that attempted solution was obviously not working out, so my new idea was to re-run the supply line from the tank out along the edge of the Jeep, away from the hot "tunnel" area. then route it up inside the passenger fender as far away from the engine as i could realistically get it. i'm not sure if this is the final fix for the too-hot water - i still need to test it on a hot day after a long slow crawl. other than those 2 minor things, the water system has been working great so far.
  5. my hood insulation was looking really ratty, probably from washing the engine bay so often. i know some people just remove the insulation. there are various explanations online for why it's even there - from sound deadening, to helping the hood paint last longer, to slowing engine fires. i'm not sure what the main purpose is, but i figured i'd try to save it for now. the section right over the air-box inlet was especially ratty and hanging down, which i thought might be blocking some air flow. so first i trimmed that little section out. i coated the whole thing with Plasti Dip Aerosol, which soaks in a bit and seems to help glue the fraying fiberglass back together and adds a little bit of water resistance. the edges were then taped with Gorilla Outdoor Duct Tape because they were separating in some places. i'm not sure how long the tape will last, but figured it was worth a try. i finished up by drilling a few more holes in the "frame" of the hood for additional plastic push clips to help support it. this was an example of a "one thing led to another" project and in retrospect, i probably should have just removed the insulation and thrown it away!
  6. another random thing checked off the list today... when i wired up my winch, i left the Blue Sea ANL Fuse Holder just flopping around because i had plans to go to a dual battery soon and thought i would organize the wiring better when i installed that. however, i still haven't gotten around to the dual battery! so this morning i made a little extension on my custom fuse holder tray to secure the big winch fuse to:
  7. ever since i installed the K&N snorkel setup, i've had a minor rattle as i pass a certain RPM during hard acceleration. overall the snorkel/filter added a nice deep tone when you floor it, but the brief buzzing sound was annoying. i finally got around to removing the fender and taking the whole thing apart to try and see where the noise was coming from... this portion of the snorkel tubing runs right by the exhaust headers on the passenger side: it turns out the heat shield on there was rubbing the headers' heat shield just a bit. you can see the scratches in the middle here where they were touching: i was able to wiggle things around a little as i put it all back together and make more space between those shields - and indeed the noise is now gone. yay! while i was in there, i wrapped the entire portion that runs near the headers with some fiberglass/foil reflective heat tape to try and keep the intake temps down. a 2" x 15' roll of DEI's Reflect-a-Gold was just enough. i didn't do a scientific before & after temperature comparison, so i can't really say for sure if it made any difference - but i can't imagine it would hurt!
  8. i ordered some aluminum fender flares! Nemesis Notorious Front and Notorious Rear Dovetail. here's a good shot of them on a Teraflex rig: since i have a narrow bumper, i opted for the "dovetail" style rears that taper down at the back:
  9. very true, many wrench sets skip 18mm for some reason and there are actually quite a few bolts you need one for on a modern Jeep.
  10. Most of Tonto will be closed from this weekend till at least end of July due to extreme fire conditions. An overview of what's till open here: https://www.abc15.com/news/state/tonto-national-forest-to-close-before-fourth-of-july-weekend-due-to-wildfire-concerns The full order from the NF: https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd759512.pdf
  11. just installed MPS JKU rear strap extension brackets to make getting in and out of the rear easier: and a random photo of Gadget from this morning - just felt like having breakfast out in the dirt, one of the benefits to living at the edge of town!
  12. If you've ever ridden in the back of a lifted Jeep Wrangler JK Unlimited, you may recall needing to be a contortionist to exit the vehicle! Now I don't often ride in the back of my own Jeep, but I do have my sleep platform back there and getting in and out is always a slight PITA. For $30 (including shipping) and about 10 minutes of your time, you can go from the rear doors opening this far: to this far: ...which does make a world of difference! The mod is the JKU Rear Door Strap Extension Brackets from Molle Platform Solutions. For your $30 you'll get a pair of brackets like the one on the left below, which replace the factory bracket shown on the right: Here's the passenger side with the new bracket: They shipped quick and the install was super fast - highly recommended! Oh, I should note, the new range of the rear doors does NOT interfere with opening the front doors.
  13. the bag showed up, no problems. it did take about a week to ship and then just a few days more to actually get here. excited to try it out - hopefully before too long!
  14. well that didn't take long: with the high-mileage in mind, i'm looking more at what spare parts to have and what proactive maintenance to perform:
  15. Now that my rig is getting up there in miles, I'm looking more into what additional spare parts I should be carrying to get the rig running again if something goes wrong while out on a trail. This is meant to cover typical parts that might fail for a JK/JKU on any type of trail (i.e. not rock-crawler type spare hard parts). Also, I'm not going to cover tools and things like a jump-start box in this thread, just parts and know-how. Note some of this info might also apply to a JL (newer Wrangler) or JT (Gladiator) that has the 3.6L. Non-model-specific parts: See the general list of "duct tape & bailing wire" type items you might want to carry here: Owners Manual It's nice to have a searchable electronic copy of the basic user manual on your phone or tablet. Download your year-specific one here: https://www.mopar.com/en-us/my-garage/select-vehicle.html Or a direct download for the 2016 JK/JKU manual: 2016-Wrangler-OM-3rd.pdf OBD2 (check engine light) The JK (like other Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge models), will show you most check-engine light codes (DTC's) in the cluster by using the simple "key trick". You just turn the key from ACC to ON 3 times fairly quickly and then hold on ON that last time. The code will read out in the odometer. Here's a couple lists of code definitions that I print out and keep in the rig. OBD2 DTC List - Common.pdf OBD2 DTC List - Jeep.pdf A smart phone and a bluetooth OBD-II dongle is handy as well to see other data besides just the code. That or a dedicated OBD-II code reader will also sometimes pull codes that you can't get with the key trick (like SRS or extended transmission controller related), as well as as "soft codes" that have occurred but not enough times to trip the MIL (check engine light) yet. I did a large write-up with more details on the OBD-2 stuff here: Basic Electronics All the fuses and most relays for the JK are in the TIPM (fuse/relay box) under the hood. Inside the lid is a diagram of what they all are, but it's very hard to read. I ran across this site where someone took the time to write all that down, so I took that info and made another doc you can print out and have a much easier to read diagram and list of all those: 2013+ Jeep Wrangler JK TIPM (Fuses & Relays).pdf I was also able to find these wiring diagrams from a 2009 JK. Some of this would be specific to early JK's (3.8L engine) and so be careful about relying on the wire color codes shown here if you have a later JK with the 3.6L like mine. JK Wiring Diagrams.pdf Here are the Mopar part numbers or links for some things you might consider having a spare of: Large TIPM relays: 04692139AA Small TIPM relays: 68083380AA TIPM Circuit breaker: 4692143AA TIPM Fuses: The JK uses the High-Profile / Standard / Tall style "Cartridge" fuses along with "Mini" fuses, here's a Spare Fuses Kit with both types... Other relays: Outside of the TIPM, JK's have a few other relays in the engine bay. In any Rubicon, two of them control the lockers. In the 3.8L JK there are 2 that control the low and high speeds on the cooling fan. My JK has 2 more that I've still got to find out what are for! There is a specific part number for the double ones (2 joined by a single mounting bracket), but any one of them can be replaced with part # 56055667AB. In fact, inside the waterproof housing, they all seem to all be a standard automotive 5 pin 12v relay. Basic Spares Serpentine belt: Part # 4627043AA for the 3.6L Idler pulleys: Super common failure item, the 3.6L has (2) of part # 4627039AA. Both the 3.6 and 3.8L without air conditioner, have a third idler: part # 53034002AA. Radiator cap: Cheap, small, and critical - might as well carry a spare: part # 4596198. Radiator hoses: The actual hoses on the JK are pretty big, so I don't carry those but instead have a radiator hose repair kit (which includes splices for the heater hoses). Starter: They typically last well over 100k miles, but with an automatic I can't push start the thing and so a dead starter will leave me stranded. Since it's a relatively easy part to replace trail-side and not too big of a part, I do keep a spare. The part # for a 3.6L starter is 56029852AA (check eBay). It's worth noting that if your starter seems to have gone out, sometimes a tap with a hammer or rock will get it going again to get you off the trail. Be sure to check that it's not just a loose or corroded connection (or a weak battery) before resorting to violence though! What am I missing? I don't think the JK has any super common sensor issues (like that crank position sensor on the old 4.0L engines). The only semi-common failure I've heard of on the 3.6L is the oil-cooler, but that's not a trail-side repair. I am considering pro-actively having it replaced soon. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulleys not long ago, I may also go ahead and do the radiator hoses and cap. Does anyone know of: - any other common failure points with the JK or 3.6L engine? - other items to proactively replace at 100k miles?
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