theksmith

to be clear, if you lock it by clicking the lock button on the fob, it can no longer be started (even with the proximity feature disabled). so i had a thought for your unique use-case where you want to leave it unlocked but also NOT startable without the fob... you could remove this connection: Omega module 10P, Green/Black (Lock/Arm -In) === Easyguard 20P, White (Door Locks Relay COM +/- In/Out) and you could also re-enable the proximity feature, then when you walk away with the fob, the easyguard will "lock" - making it no longer startable, but yet it won't actually lock the doors because of removing that connection. or if you leave proximity enabled, then you just need to remember to press the lock button on the fob when you leave the rig (again just to disable the start button, not to actually lock the doors). the downside of this idea is that you could never lock the doors for real with the easyguard fob, you'd have to lock them with the key manually (or of course the factory fob would still work).

easyguard detects the fob and easy guard tells the omega to tell the jeep to start, however... i just tested mine. the way i was describing it working apparently is only when you have the proximity feature enabled. if i disable proximity by starting the rig, pressing lock and unlock on the fob... then afterwards mine will also start without the fob present. i had no idea! you've certainly found a very important tidbit that should have been in the instructions in bright red! that is, if you disable proximity feature, it's not just disabling proximity lock/unlock, but completely removing the need for the fob to be present - i.e. makes your rig so anyone can steal it if left unlocked! i'm going to email Easyguard about this glaring security issue and unclear manual.

so with both fobs no-where near the Jeep, if you step on the brake, the "start" button begins to blink and then you can just press it once and the rig starts up? sounds like the Easyguard module itself might be bad. the Easyguard shouldn't even light-up the start button if there's no key fob nearby - regardless of the proximity lock/unlock feature being disabled.

no idea, on my Easyguard the start button doesn't even light up if the jeep is locked. so until the proximity sensor unlocks the rig, or i push the unlock button on the remote, the start button is disabled. how are you getting into the Jeep without the key fob nearby? does it auto-lock when you walk away? or do you have the proximity feature currently disabled?

replacing the drag-link with the Metal Cloak one should not force any other upgrades. just be sure to get the standard, not the "drag link flip" version. however, if the drag-link TRE's are bad then the tie-rod ones are likely close to death as well, so you might consider replacing it at the same time. EDIT - FYI, you could also just replace the pitman arm side TRE on the stock drag link, even autozone has them. however, the other end is all one giant piece. i only mention this in case funds are extra tight. i think it makes more sense to replace the entire thing with an aftermarket unit.

i spent Sunday removing the rear storage system temporarily in order to do some re-wiring for a new project... while it was empty, i added a third L-track anchor point in the middle of the platform above the drawer:

good point. i'll have to remember to keep the fridge slid out when using it with anything higher wattage. the only thing i can think of that i would use it for while driving would be a small battery charger. the inverter has a fan in the back which seems to kick on as soon as there's a load, and there's space in front of and behind to move air, so i think it would be fine for a small load with the fridge slid in.

random updates... lead most of Asbestos Mine trail but ran into deep snow near the top and had to turn around. cool shot of gadget coming back down by @4x4tographer: driver side door handle broke inside, got a new one installed pretty quickly (Mopar part # 68059175AA). ran up to Mingus Mountain on Sunday to play in the snow a bit. i also recently added an inverter to my auxiliary battery area...

finally added a small pure sine wave inverter to this system. this Giandel 1200 watt unit had good reviews and was thin enough at 3" to fit between the wall and fridge. FYI, it seems to go on-sale on Amazon for about 30% off every few weeks. it was a quick install since i'd already wired in an extra fuse holder when i first setup this whole auxiliary battery system. i ran a 3 outlet extension up to the passenger side of my rear FrontRunner cargo area shelf to have better access to plug things in when needed. the inverter also has a remote turn-on button, but i left that off since it's easy enough to just reach behind the fridge and push the on button when needed. gave it test run with this small electric kettle and everything seemed to work as expected!

you might consider a steering stabilizer relocation bracket. it's cheap insurance even though i know you aren't going to be doing crazy rock crawls. almost every lift manufacturer has a version of it.

Happy Birthday Ryan - a.k.a. @4x4tographer !!!