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theksmith last won the day on March 24

theksmith had the most liked content!

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About theksmith

  • Rank
    Expedition Expert

Basic Info

  • Rig
    2016 JK Unlimited Rubicon
  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ

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  1. are you still planning to do this, or waiting till things calm down in the world?
  2. are those table supports/struts homemade?
  3. Great video - Iceland was insanely beautiful!
  4. not sure if i'll go to the expo or not, but interested in camping!
  5. thank you for the work you do, i'm sure you deal with some very sick and very cranky people every day!
  6. i went out near Lake Pleasant on Sunday and with most things closed these days, everyone in the valley apparently decided to go there too! there were tons of looky-loos in cars, boats out on the lake, and more side-by-sides on the trails than i've ever seen. it took nearly 10 minutes just to get back out onto Carefree Highway from Castle Hot Springs Road when i left! but if you can stand the trail traffic - the desert is in bloom...
  7. Nena (Barlow Adventures) shared this post on Facebook letting us know that the Carbon, Emery and Grand County UT have issued temporary orders to close all lodging, among other things, which includes dispersed/dry camping in those areas! From the post: Here is the link to the full order, including restaurants and bars: https://bit.ly/2U9nhml
  8. Great idea guys! I'm in the north valley (near Anthem) if anyone needs anything.
  9. thanks guys! after looking at some more photos on The Google, i'm pretty sure it's Schorl, AKA Black Tourmaline... apparently it makes a great "psychic shield deflecting and dispelling negative energies, entities, or destructive forces" i found that rock not too far from the Ft Tule area (Lake Pleasant), there's a few flakes of Mica in there as well:
  10. @Ladybug - is this the same black mineral you were showing me on the run this past weekend? what was it called?
  11. he got a very nice JK. it sure would be nice if he posted some photos and started a build thread on this site to keep track of it's evolution
  12. hot water! i sketched out a plumbing diagram for the whole system (just the fill-hose and breather line aren't shown): an under-hood photo showing the heat exchanger which is spliced into the heater core return line. i might should have gone with a 20 plate exchanger. the 10 plate isn't efficient enough to heat up the water to an acceptable shower temp *until* the engine gets to around 180*. the only problem with that is the JK's 3.6L takes a good 15 minutes to get that warm from a cold start if it's just sitting still idling. the heat exchanger is just zip tied on, but that seems to be holding it in place just fine. for reference, the bottom (passenger side) aluminum line in this "before" photo is the heater core return. i disconnected the rubber hose coming to it near the firewall to splice in the heat exchanger. one item not shown in the diagram above is the coolant bleed/fill valve that i added. since all of this new stuff is higher than the radiator fill, air bubbles would be trapped in the lines without some way to bleed from the highest point. the thermostatic mixing valve was placed under the front wiper cowl next to the pump. it's not something that would need to be adjusted often, but i can access it with the hood open if necessary. when water sits in the heat exchanger for a while, it can reach the full engine operating temp (over 200*). so the thermostatic mixing valve is needed to provide a consistent "warm" output, regardless of how hot the engine is or how fast/slow the water moves through the exchanger. it does this by dynamically blending the cool tank water with the hot water from the exchanger. another issue i encountered: because the "cool" line coming from the tank runs above the engine/trans/t-case, the water inside it was heating up to the point that that the mixing valve couldn't do its job and i was getting a brief initial pulse of scalding water from the sprayer. the solution was to insulate the cool line where it ran through the tunnel. i used common foam pipe insulation tubing and then wrapped that with aluminum duct tape. one final thing to note is that i have some "straight" and some tapered/conical thread fittings. these shouldn't normally be mixed, but can be made to work just fine in this low-pressure application... for any joint, if the female side is a straight thread ("pipe"/IPS/G/BSP/"shower") then use a rubber washer and if the female side is tapered (NPT), use teflon tape. shopping list for this part of the project: 10 or 20 Plate Heat Exchanger with 1/2" MPT ports 1/2" Thermostatic Mixing Valve (2) 1/2" FPT to 3/8 Barb fittings (2) 1/2" IPS 14" Braided Supply Lines 1/2" M-M-F Shower Tee/Diverter 5/8" Barb Union fitting (2) 1/2" FPT to 5/8" Barb fittings ~3ft of 5/8" Heater Hose 5/8" Heater Hose Flush Tee 14mm & 20mm Spring Band Hose Clamps ~6ft 3/8" Pipe Insulation Tubing 1 Roll Foil Tape
  13. thanks for organizing/leading this Ryan - Brady and I had a great time and all that water really made it fun!
  14. I've gotten some emails about this project, recently so I just wanted to mention a couple things... I really appreciate the interest! The download link for the plans (in the post here...) DOES work, you just need to sign-up as a Supporting or Club member first. So basically $9 gets you a set of very detailed plans to reference and a warm fuzzy feeling for supporting Offroad Passport! For info on the membership options or to sign-up, click here... It's been over 3 years and I made my 1 minor "fix" just this week... I originally used very short wood screws to hold the aluminum Z-rails onto the main plastic table but recently noticed some had pulled out of the upper rail. There just wasn't enough engagement into the 3/8" plastic for the weight placed on the slide-out bamboo section. So I replaced all of those wood screws in the upper rail with machine screws through the table/rail and into cap-nuts: Note that the lower Z-rail is also attached with wood screws, but it had an additional machine screw through the table on each end (because of the hinges). That lower rail has not pulled loose at all, so I think I could have gotten away with only using a through-screw at each end of this top rail too *if* I'd noticed it getting loose before several screws stripped out. Here's a photo of the new cap-nuts and one of the previously used shorty wood screws for reference: This table setup is one of the most often used mods I've done to Gadget and no other problems, tweaks, or complaints still!
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