matts74

You can create ground while running by using a simple horn relay. Set it to trigger on ignition. The pass through pin will tie to ground and the output side will be ground while running (gwr)

Bob - Two thoughts come to mind for why it is behaving like this in addition to Kris’s input. 1) The dipswitches that control the functions of the easy guard. Double check that you have them in the correct position to disable the anti-carjacking feature 2) The other thought is on my setup, I believe the Easy Guard RPM sensor needed +12v to keep the jeep running after cranking. Otherwise she’d die after just a few quick pulses from the starter. Best. Matt

Just looked at this and second item is a a switch to ground to simulate GWR on the omega side which should pull down the omega mux and simulate a key takeover on the CAN BUS

Thanks. Good to see your reply. Hope all is well. I could most certainly ground the brake input of the Fortin with a switch. I’m not sure Fortin device has the analog lines active when you turn up the serial port, so it would need some testing. I am thinking that it may be easier to use a switch to give the omega control and fake a handoff by putting 12v on the 10s-delay relay that controls the mux circuit. Risk with that is if the switch is left on you’ll have two 12v inputs at that relay contact. So, I’ll need to add a diode on both lines. I will experiment with both and let you know which works.

^ Per above, can I make a ground while running and tie my existing omega mux to it with a switch, and be done? Do I need to do this to the Fortin’s mux? Sorry for all the crazy replies and stuff today - couldn’t figure out how to edit older item, and also been a while since I dropped in here. Started a new job and got crazy busy last several months. Matt

Does anyone have any idea how I can use a switch to do a takeover from the fortin without the EASYGUARD Key Fob in my hands. I want to give my kid the mobile app to use the Jeep without giving her a key so I can park it and leave it for her to pick up. Matt

I have gotten used to the PKE doing its “thing” as I get near the Jeep. If you really wanted to do this, you could use a momentary switch on the door handle, diode, and relay to latch, then use a programmable “timer” relay like you can find on amazon, to close the contact after you get out fo the Jeep and power off. The programmable relay can be set to latch and hold once triggered and timed out after you power off the ignition. If you are interested in the actual circuit design and parts let me know, I think I built something similar for another purpose a few years ago.

Reubs Can you drive away without the FOB after using the phone to perform the start? Thanks, Matt

I never had that exact issue. The linkr from time to time needs a little time to sync with the app. If I press start too soon the app button will hold a blue color and go back to white. As long as I wait for battery voltage to come up green the remote start from the app goes green and the start activates. I use it just about every day before I leave the office. Matt

Sorry bud. It’s been long days at work. Tells me I need to do some wheelin’. I meant Kris. Nice work in this heat with the fortin. I intend to dive back in once it cools off. Can you start remotely with the phone and simply press your start button then drive away? Matt

I went to fortin’s site and started downloading a number of the Jeep Wrangler working setups. Figured out which one I wanted. I broke the programming port:mad: on try number 2 or 3, and went with the Omega while I got a new fortin. So my fortin is only inline for the serial port to manage the mobile phone start (which I use every day now that its 119*). On the Omega side, I verbosely copied ken’s work. He did all the hard work. The only difference was the On While Running signal I needed an extra SPST relay and I put hard 12v to the tach signal on the easy guard. I may have used a few different resistors to get to the required resistance on the ignition mux. All that stuff was laying around. Matt

Me too - I had a quick second at work and saw your post. Trying to get back to you quickly not be a dickly. Sorry if my reply read that way. Matt

Andy Check the original post carefully. I think this issue was called out as a feature of the OMEGA that the OP, mentions in his instructions. The brake isn’t detected while ignition is off and your easyguard requires a hardwire to the brake light signal line to operate properly. In my rig I was already using the left rear brake light pig tail to tap for some reverse lights so I used the brake light for this application. I believe Ken, OP, went after the brown brake light wire under the driver’s side dash. I had to run a little extra wire in my case, but I can replace the rear tail light and bring it back to pristine. Really your choice. Matt

Nice work - you’re gonna make me tear this apart to get the alarm push notice functionality.

That’s my pleasure. I love tinkering as it appears you do too. I’m actually Sidetracked on 2 other project that may interest you. Headliners but I saw your post. Opted for Mopar and noise barrier (noico9. And Just got a backup camera (I have 35” tires and can’t see well out of the back with my hardtop). Got a decent deal on alpine brake light camera. Will start another thread with install of that. Once that stuff is done I’ll revisit the horn connection. I may pull the wire off my existing output as you suggest. I also want to use the trunk release on the easyguard fob to turn off/on some lights. Just a latching relay but need to find the time. It’s not that bad but not in the heat. First I want the headliner and noise barrier done. Where are you located in the valley? Let’s meet up one of these days and trade some ideas on additional projects.