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shellback91

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Posts posted by shellback91


  1. Today I tackled a couple items related to the new shocks and the extra length they provide. I went to the auto part store and got 4'(Front) and 6'(Rear- Too Long for now) pieces of 5/16 fuel line so I could replace the diff breather lines with some longer sections. I am glad I pulled them out because I noticed the front valve needs replaced soon. I ran the front into the engine bay beside the master cylinder. I rerouted it to run beside the brake lines, not under where it can pull up when flexing. I did not want to cut it too short so I left some slack so I can adjust later when I test the flex.


    I was going to run the rear into the taillight well and 6' gave me some room to work. After thinking about it I changed my mind and ran it it the same general area. It is up between the fender and the liner, still higher than before. The extra hose will also be dealt with when it gets flexed out.


    The first and hardest thing was getting the PITA "Christmas tree"  clip out. I wound up cutting it because i did not plan to reuse it anyway. I bought this 1 in. Rubber Insulated Metal Clamp that I secured using a 1/4" hex bolt and Nyloc nut I ran through the hole where the clip was. From that point I ran it up between the liner to get it higher.  The hose it not tight but its not going anywhere either.

    20210410_113856.thumb.jpg.297837bd537089b7ad3a028159bb52c8.jpg

     

    I ran the hose through the cross member then up. I will adjust length eventually. No ones crawling down there to look at it anyways. 😆

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    1776956337_RearDiffNew.thumb.jpg.3c40c648b6a3fd0bff2e5e6ad96d759d.jpg

     

    I also installed these Rear Brake Line Relocation Brackets to give the brake lines more slack. They are for up to a 4" lift so I should be in good shape.There was nothing to do on the front because there are already relocation brackets there. I wanted to replace it with another heavier duty one I like better but whomever installed it really torqued it down and I did not want to break anything or round out the nut.

    20210410_123620.thumb.jpg.058cd3071ed3439d687107763978baec.jpg

     

    I made sure lines were not rubbing on the shocks. It's something to keep an eye on though just to be safe. The pics a little blurry but you can see where the line is in relation to the shock. Seems like a good spot to me.

    20210410_171616.thumb.jpg.5d44d205e938ebe5dc87ab4e9470674b.jpg

    • Like 3

  2. I like them enough to put them on my wish list for later on in the year. My reasoning being I need something eventually, Bonus is there's an Australian dude endorsing them on their website. We all we know crazy those offroaders are out there! 🤣

    • Like 2

  3. I think I may have a name for my rig, I am leaning towards Betty Lou. There a song by Bob Seger called "Betty Lou's Getting out Tonight" that I like and that name just seems fitting for her. 🤔 Now on to the fun stuff.

     

    I checked after a few days of driving to see how the new shocks were doing. I wanted to see if they needed to be snugged up after "settling" in. Rears and front driver were good, front passenger shock was a little loose. I could easily turn the shock body by hand  so it needed addressed. I managed to get my hands on a BFK  to re-trim the bottom of the battery tray where it gets in the way so I could get in there better. I also got my mitts on on a BFW  to I can grab the shock body and hold it without damaging it.  The knife worked awesome and so did the wrench.  Passenger side is snug and I gave the driver side front a little adjustment for good measure. They should both be good to go.

    • Like 3

  4. 13 minutes ago, Trail Toy said:

    I was also going to say my rig has relocation brackets and it doesn't appear my lines have been bent other than the factory bends.  That's kinda the reason for the relocation brackets, so you don't have to modify anything like bending the tubes.  But there could be situations like yours where you need a little modification...  😟

    I am probably overthinking it as I tend to do sometimes. After looking at everything again I think I am going to be okay. My approach is to plan for the worst just in case something goes wonky then have a beer or three when it doesn't! 😆

    • Haha 1

  5. While perusing the interwebs I came across an interesting piece of recovery gear.  I found these compact traction boards  from GoTreads that can also double as leveling blocks if needed. They are a little more expensive than traditional traction boards but the space saving aspect is worth it IMO. I really like that they fold up and can be stored inside the rig and no exterior mod has to be done to accommodate them.  It also keeps people with sticky fingers from trying to acquire a set of exterior mounted boards.  🙂

    • Like 1

  6. 2 minutes ago, Trail Toy said:

    That is a bit sketchy, be VERY careful, bend it too much and it'll kink/pinch... 😬

    I know, it scares me a little.  I am going to give it a go tomorrow see what it looks like attached to the relocation brackets. Maybe I will not have to do anything,  or it may need straightened out a little. 😬 I am a little frustrated this week with the rig, my fault not hers,  so if it looks too complicated I am going to put it back together and leave it alone until I calm down.

    • Like 1

  7. I am installing some brake line relocation brackets and MAY have to bend the hard line which scares the ever lovin'  💩 outta me. 🤣  Any tips or tricks if I have to bend them a little? I have read box wrenches work good for some.


  8. That is some good info Ryan. Nevada is is one those weird states where no civilization is not a bad thing. Once you get out of Las Vegas & Reno it is pretty desolate but awesome.  When I drove truck I used to love driving through the remote areas. No light pollution at night really brought out the stars and it was peaceful for lack of a better word.

     

    New Mexico is another state that's is sparsely populated similar to Nevada & Utah.  Driving through new Mexico at night during electrical storms was a pretty trippy experience.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  9. You can check out what I did  on 1-8 here.  I have an 8" Samsung cellular capable tablet in a RAM mount attached to a 67 Designs AMPS plate & carbon fiber arm. I have links to the sites I used to purchase my goodies in my post. I remove the RAM mount when I am not wheeling because it gets in my way and I do not want it to grow legs and walk away. Placement of the tablet is a personal preference and there are a ton of options out there for sure.  I use Gaia GPS like some folks do here and I love it. 

    • Like 1

  10. 20 minutes ago, Trail Toy said:

    Thread lock is not a permanent "glue", it just helps to keep the nut from coming loose, same as a lock washer or the nylon in a nylock nut.  It is harder to get a nut off that has thread lock but it will come off.  I am speaking from my experience with using thread lock in the past.  My opinion is that you'll be fine, think of it as added security to help keep the nut from coming loose.

    I will leave it be, I just need to get a couple more turns on it and then I will stop worrying about it!

    • Like 1

  11. 7 minutes ago, jgaz said:

    Sorry.  
    I’ve never come across “TLG” in a fastener designation.

    A quick search thru my Machinery’s Handbook did not turn up anything.

     

    I did see that Fox seems to use this designation when describing some of their other fasteners.  Fastener vendor maybe?

     

    I’d be confident using any nut of  the correct thread as Kris said.

     

    I am curious about this though.   Maybe @ob1jeeper would be a better person to ask

     

     

     

    I believe you may be correct Jim. Fox sent me that part number, that combined with everything I dug up yesterday it jives.  What are your or @ob1jeeper's or anyone's thoughts on removing the original Nylock nut, pulling the shock to clean the threads then reinstall? If I do not do that do I run the risk of seizing up that nut? Or is it extra secure as is so leave it be? It is on the passenger side of my JK which is a pain to get at on good days.

     

     


  12. 11 minutes ago, theksmith said:

    what's the nut for?

     

     

    it sounds like a fairly standard 1/2" diameter x 20 threads-per-inch Grade 5 Nylok: https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=7184

     

    0.597 would normally be the thickness (height) of the nut, but i'm not sure what TLG means - is it a flanged nut maybe?

     

    some Ace hardwares will have them, unless it's flanged (in which case just use a washer).

     

    @jgaz do you have any insight on the TLG designation?

     

     

     

     

    Front shock stud nut. I am considering pulling my front passenger side shock off and cleaning off the thread locker. I will need a replacement nut since the one on there is a Nyloc and  I used thread locker which can cause problems. I may just leave it be but I am nervous about it binding up for good.   Haven't decided yet but it is causing anxiety. 😬

     

    Fox Shocks gave me this for the part "018-00-026-A   Fastener, Standard: Nut, Lock [1/2-20 X 0.597 TLG] Zinc Plated, Nylok" . I am thinking TLG is unrelated to the nut itself.


  13. I am thick as a brick and cannot figure out this nut measurement or where to get one. If anyone can help that would be awesome.  I am also wondering if I cannot find the Nyloc kind could I use a "regular" one and some thread locker.🤔

     

    Fastener, Standard: Nut, Lock [1/2-20 X 0.597 TLG] Zinc Plated,Nylok

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