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LaZorraRoja

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Everything posted by LaZorraRoja

  1. great pics. it was a fun run, too. thanks for putting it together fellas. Still working on my pics & will share them soon.
  2. Wow awesome trip report! Makes me think about changing up tomorrow's plans...
  3. Thank you! It sticks out quite a bit more than the factory bumper but it does look pretty good. I think metal will always look better on a truck than plastic anyway.
  4. I have no shame in the quest for a less wind tunnel experience in my big red box!
  5. New booty. Don't ask what I did to my old booty. 😢 Just to keep me from being totally happy, I managed to ding the quarter panel putting it on. I also finished sealing off wind noise areas. I can actually hear my tires now. Both areas that I addressed were subtle. First was the gasket around the windshield at the top where it meets the frame. I put a very thin bead of flowable silicone on the edge to seal tiny imperfections in the gasket. Then, behind the little plastic doohickeys behind the side mirrors is a piece of foam that doesn't do squat. I pulled both sides off and gave them a liberal coat of 3M weather strip adhesive and then put them back on. It's not a Lexus, but it's much better.
  6. Introducing the Squishmaster 3000! So I think I'm finally done with my install, after many many many orders and returns as I figured out how I wanted it to work. Mount From Home Depot: Snap LOC etrack Simpson mend straps (8") Misc hardware From Amazon: Vibration dampers From Harbor Freight: 2 ATV winch mounts Power (Amazon) 2 awg cable 125 A breaker 120 A relay Loom from Scott Offroadland 6 gang switch kit Air delivery (A) 6 mm push to connect hose and fittings 3 ball valves 4 chucks 1 4-way manifold 4 Deflators Gauge Cable clips I ran the push to connect hose from the bed to a Tee that feeds each side. On a whim I added a valve to each side as well in case I wanted to inflate or deflate only one side. I couldn't really figure out a good way to attach the valves but there's a hole in the body metal that I used to zip tie them in place until I figure out something better. From the valves is a little stub hose that I can clip to the rock rail (if it holds. I'm not sure it will). I attach the tee for each side to this stub. When I'm done I just remove the side hoses and put them away.. it's much less to manage than a regular four-way fill system. Inflation from 17 to 34 was under 4 minutes. Deflation took just over 7 minutes. I understand Boulder tools has a new and improved version but I'm not going to buy them. To deflate all I do now is connect the hoses and turn the valve. The deflators stay connected to the manifold always.
  7. Thanks man! The breaker is from big brother undercover: WOHHOM 120 Amp Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset 12V-36V DC Waterproof Surface Mount for Car Audio Rv Marine Boat Truck Trolling Motors, 30-300A Car Speaker Resettable Fuse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D39FKVW/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_Z13TRYWG83FEC3YJFH0V
  8. Mostly done with my Naspresso (Napa) compressor hard mount. Finished the wiring to the relays etc today. I didn't have the factory aux switches so I used the offroadland 6 gang set. I didn't want to drill anywhere to mount it so I used a carmount magnetic holder, which lets the switch move a bit if you want to reposition it. Big thanks to everyone for the input and to Scott for the loom!
  9. You have an awesome view then. Except for the tourists I'd love to live there.
  10. Thanks man! I will definitely do that one again. The Milky Way and lightning would look awesome from up there.
  11. Frank and I did a short but fun and scenic run to House Mountain yesterday. I didn't realize at the time it is/was a shield volcano and we were looking down from the caldera rim, but we were. You can see the rim of the volcano to the right of where I was standing; it's covered with grass. The route has a couple of shelf areas that might give some challenge to someone with smaller than 33s, a few small basketball-size rock gardens, and several deep washed-out ruts to navigate. That's about it for challenging terrain, but it was technical enough to feel like "off-roading". Without having to worry about body damage, it was just fun. The views are absolutely spectacular, as the summit is pretty small and you have 360° to view the Verde valley, cottonwood, Sedona, flag, the rim etc.
  12. The plan is pretty fluid as there are many ways to go about setting this up. At present, I'm thinking to bypass the switch on the compressor so I don't have to open the tonneau cover to gain access to it. The hoses will be plumbed from the bed to each side of the truck. I can T off a line to the wheels and just have those 2 hoses to connect when I go to fill... And only 2 hoses to fight with to put away when I'm done. 😆
  13. I hadn't thought of that, but at this point it's probably more direct to do all the relay/breaker under the hood vs taking it out of the mount because i ended up mounting it to the e track first then attaching that to the bed side. Good observation for the next person wanting to do this for sure.
  14. Today I used it to air up after a run. I didn't time it but it was darn fast even having to move hoses because I haven't finished the 4 way. I'd say no more than 5 minutes from 15 to 34 all round. It's also the first time i ran with the autolynx and WOW what a difference.
  15. Almost there. I need to hardwire it yet and finish the hoses for the 4 way. After much trial and error I settled on this for the install: I used a $16 E-track mounted to the factory weld nuts on the bedside. Keeping the base plate the compressor came with, I stiffened it with a couple of Simpson strong tie mending plates. I attached 2 HF ATV winch plates ($6 each) with M10-1.50 bolts to the base, and 3/8 bolts to the E-track to provide more support. The wheelwell hump slopes away from the bedside, so only the back side of the mount rests on the hump. The air hose goes to a 4 port manifold and I may decide to T the hoses for each side and only use 2 ports. Not sure which will work better as far as storing etc goes.
  16. That's why I took it apart to check. Apparently this guy's compressor just shut itself off due to thermal because it started working again after it cooled off.
  17. How do you hook up the pressure relief switch? I bought mine last week. A test fill of my 35x10.5x17 from 12psi to 36 took just over a minute. I read some people found wires poking thru the heat shrink at the circuit board so I checked- no issues in mine.
  18. I'll be sure to hit you up on that. I'm just down the road from Jason.
  19. My first thought was questioning whether adding a breaker is redundant, bc the switch panel has fuses in it already. I'm pretty sure the compressor has something like that as well. Hmm. Thinking out loud here- The fuse in the switch box isn't actually connected to the compressor power, so it's only protecting the circuit from the switch to the 120amp relay. Therefore, a breaker is not redundant and helps protect the high current circuit running the length of the vehicle to the mounting location. Correct me if I'm looking at it wrong.
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