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frostbiker

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Everything posted by frostbiker

  1. I was kinda hoping to get away from undogging the serpentine belt. Might be the only and best option. I'll look at it again in the morning. Thanks.
  2. Can anyone tell me the best way to go about fully removing the passenger side valve cover? I was able to pull it up to view the missing rocker arm the other day, but a bad weather forecast forced me to button everything up and wait. Do I have to disconnect the a/c lines running next to the cover? How do I go about safely doing that without freon blowing up in my face? QUestions, comments, snide remarks? Any help appreciated.
  3. Finally had some decent weather and a day off to tackle the Jeep. Pulled back the valve cover over the #2 cylinder. Sure enough, I'm missing a rocker arm. Funniest thing. Now, I have to figure out how to purge the a/c lines, remove them, loosen the serpentine belt, and (fingers crossed) remove the pieces of the busted rocker arm before replacing it. I do hope that is the end of the road for this.
  4. Here's an update for you guys: Traced fuel problems from the pump, filter, lines, rail, injectors, plugs and coil packs. All that is fine. Replaced plugs, purged the lines, cleaned injectors and did continuity tests on injectors and coil packs. All of that is fine. I started the truck up on Thursday. Was still rough, but much better. No codes. Shut it off and went to do something else. Came back and tried to test drive. Idled like the very first day. Code P0202 showed up. So, something is wrong with the number 2 injector. Something dad and I should have done a while back was a compression test. Didn't think much of it at the time because we thought we were dealing with issues up to and including the injectors. Nothing inside the block. We tested compression on the #2 first. Flat expletive zero. No psi at all. Not even a blip when I cranked it over. Checked three other holes. All but the number one were in the 120 psi range. Number 1 showed 150. Double checked continuity on the coil pack, pulled the rail and double checked the injector, checked the spark plug. All fine. Worst case, a blown head gasket. I'm not even gonna attempt to rebuild the engine on that one. My neighbor, the shade tree genius (no, don't laugh, he really is!), has theorized that if it is not a stuck valve, blown gasket, or other headache inducing problem, the simplest answer would be a bad rocker arm, or busted spring. My work schedule returns to normal this week. I'll have a couple hours every day to break the engine down. I'm gonna get down and pull the valve cover off that side and see if there is something obvious in need of repair. Wish me luck, as this is turning into a greek tragedy.
  5. Just thought of something. Idle was rough but better when I drained the oil when I started repairs. Gets worse when oil is added back in. Sounds better after the truck has been sitting a couple weeks and started back up, gets worse when oil pulled up into the engine. Throws code P0202 this time around. Somehow believe there is a fuel/air/oil mixture issue at #2 that is the ultimate problem. Thoughts? Also, let me ask the braintrust this: Truck is running like a top (albeit a 195K odometer top) the day this occurs. Sits in a parking lot for a couple hours. Start up at the end of the day and BLAMMO! instant issues. Would a bad head gasket present in that manner, or would it be something else? Going back to my primary cause for concern (bad fuel), I don't think that was the primary issue overall. It started the ball rolling on repairs, but I think it was analogous to the root problem. I did find some foreign material in approximately 1/3 pt. of gas pulled from my tank. For all intents and purposes, the rest of the fuel was clean as a whistle when we drained the tank. The original pump and filter didn't have gunk in them, but they were old as dirt. Whatever was put in my tank didn't get all the way to the bottom to be pulled into the engine. Whatever I siphoned out was trapped at the fill neck and no further.
  6. Where to start? Traced fuel problems from the pump, filter, lines, rail, injectors, plugs and coil packs. All that is fine. Replaced plugs, purged the lines, cleaned injectors and did continuity tests on injectors and coil packs. All of that is fine. I started the truck up on Thursday. Was still rough, but much better. No codes. Shut it off and went to do something else. Came back and tried to test drive. Idled like the very first day. Code P0202 showed up. So, something is wrong with the number 2 injector. Something dad and I should have done a while back was a compression test. Didn't think much of it at the time because we thought we were dealing with issues up to and including the injectors. Nothing inside the block. We tested compression on the #2 first. Flat expletive zero. No psi at all. Not even a blip when I cranked it over. Checked three other holes. All but the number one were in the 120 psi range. Number 1 showed 150. Double checked continuity on the coil pack, pulled the rail and double checked the injector, checked the spark plug. All fine. Worst case, a blown head gasket. I'm not even gonna attempt to rebuild the engine on that one. My neighbor, the shade tree genius (no, don't laugh, he really is!), has theorized that if it is not a stuck valve, blown gasket, or other headache inducing problem, the simplest answer would be a bad rocker arm, or busted spring. My work schedule returns to normal this week. I'll have a couple hours every day to break the engine down. I'm gonna get down and pull the valve cover off that side and see if there is something obvious in need of repair. Wish me luck, as this is turning into a greek tragedy.
  7. It is what it is. In the long run, I'd love to keep the truck. Probably going to sell it once I breathe life back into it. I have a line on a '13 FJ Cruiser in 4wd.
  8. Well, we've made progress. Dropped the tank and cleaned it yesterday. We siphoned off approximately 15 gallons of gas that looked clear. Dad and I pulled samples of gas into a clean glass jar every 3-5 gallons. It was crystal clear. Weird. I would expect more foreign matter in the tank. Whoever did this either didn't have enough time to put all the stuff into the tank, didn't bring enough stuff to put in the tank, or just thought a little dab will do ya. Disconnected the fuel line from the rail this morning and gently shot some compressed air through the line. Removed a tiny bit of gunk in the line itself. The braintrust at my end (dad and a mechanic neighbor) concur that whatever was introduced to the tank (not sugar, but some sort of lotion) may have moved past the pump and filter to block an injector or two. Next weekend, we plan on reattaching the tank, filling it with a bit of gas and a heaping helping of injector cleaner. The plan is to prime the fuel lines and let the cleaner do some work. If the truck still misses after that, we will pull the fuel rail and inspect all the injectors for problems. I should mention that when I last started the engine, it sounded like the right side was where the miss was occurring. I think whatever got through moved all the way down the fuel rail and blocked an injector on that side. I recommend for anyone dropping the tank on their truck to clean it and let it set overnight to dry. I also recommend putting a large dessicant bag in the tank to soak up any residual moisture. My tank was bone dry this morning except for a little drop of water at the bottom.
  9. Okay, Jeep Braintrust, I need a bit more assistance. Thanks to a miscreant or two, I have an unknown amount of sugar or other foreign substance in my tank. The cost of repairs is twice the value of the truck. I've decided to drop the tank myself and make the repairs. I figure I'll need to a)drain the tank, b)drop the tank, c)replace the pump and filter, d)purge and clean the fuel lines, e)check and clean the injectors My question is what is the best and most effective way to clean the fuel lines. A neighbor informed me the best was to disconnect the fuel line where it meets the rail and send injector cleaner back down towards the tank. What can I use to send the cleaner down there under pressure so it moves through the line? Is there a specific pump or something I can use?
  10. Just found out it is bad gas. Possible sugar or something else in the tank. I'm not happy.
  11. checked codes with the key trick this AM. None. Drained all oil and pulled the filter last night. Started the truck to make sure all the oil was out. The idle was rough, but much better than what it was when the Jeep went Tango Uniform last week. Dropped in 4.5qts of Royal Purple and let it sit for 10 minutes while I pulled the contacts on the PCM (clean, no visible problems). Turned the engine over and the idle was gawdawful. Worse than without the oil. Going to test the fuel right now and then check the spark plugs. Any thoughts on the oil/idle symptoms?
  12. Thanks. I wasn't too sure if I used the OBD right today. Had to input make/model/year for it to read codes. I'll do the key trick after work tomorrow and see if something pops up. I'll keep ya'll posted.
  13. Oh, and please remind me of the "key trick" to get the stored codes.
  14. Ran the codes this morning and didn't have any. Check engine light was on for the fuel evap sensor. Cleared it out and hasn't returned. Instead of having to replace all the individual sensors, would it be best to start by replacing/refurbing the PCM? Battery connections are clean. No sign of corrosion on them. My punch list includes: Check fuel for water Oil change (make sure no water) Check spark plugs I should add, the rough idle sounds more like a miss than anything else.
  15. I'm hoping the brain trust of this fine forum can help nail down a problem for me. My 2000 Grand Cherokee V8 ran fine friday morning, but, 10 hours later, had difficulty starting. Idle was very rough and RPMs were below 1000. Got it towed home and thought maybe the fuel pump/filter may have an issue. Changed the filter this morning. Pump and filter are fine. Oil doesn't show signs of water. Coolant is not leaking and still full. Haven't checked the gas for water, but that is high on the list. Same with plugs. I'm pretty sure that is the order of things to eliminate before sending to the mechanic. Am I missing anything? Your help is greatly appreciated. And, yes, I've been researching online and through the various forums.
  16. Latches are not on. For some strange reason (not discounting ghosts) the lock starting working again. It does sound like a duck duet now. The gears on the actuator must have bound up or something and now it is working, but I'll have to fix it ASAP.
  17. thanks. hopefully it is something like that.
  18. Didn't find anything in a search, so I need to ask: My right back door will not unlock. Tried everything short of running a slimjim down the window to unlock. The door lock doesn't even move when I hit the button to unlock. Seems stuck or bound up when I try it manually, too. Any thoughts? Questions, comments, snide remarks? I'm guessing power to the actuator may be the issue. Need to get the door open first, then pull the panel to verify.
  19. what did you wind up using for your CB antenna?
  20. Sorry for the scare, guys. This is coming second-hand from my mechanic. He's never steered me wrong before (except on his rates!). I did get a look inside that radiator. Clogged to he!!. Should've known something was wrong when I opened the petcock last year and only a cupful came out. I wouldn't know which specific Mopar coolant it was, but it was green color if that helps. Back history: I bought this truck from a lil' ol' goatherding lady out in Central Texas in April 2010. This was a daily driver, gone to market type of vehicle. She kept up on oil changes and tire rotations, but I believe that was the extent of her care of the vehicle. I purchased sight unseen after my 4runner went Tango Uniform. It was a steal on price, and at the time, there was no discernable problem that I could find. Since then, death wobble and the radiator have been my biggest issues. I can live with the DW until I get the coolant problems sorted out.
  21. clutch fan is fine. Just the relay switch that went bad. The radiator crapped out last year, and as I was diagnosing the problem, I went down the line from relay switch, thermostat, hoses, flush and then a new radiator to correct the problem. Found out from the mechanic that the mopar coolant used is worthless. Previous owner never flushed or serviced the radiator, so it got old and clogged the entire system. Looked like someone dumped a bunch of sand in the radiator. I was able to diagnose and reset the check engine light. burped the radiator this morning (was feeling a bit colicky ), and it is running okay. Just need to get that new relay in and I'll be set.
  22. Got the code! Power fan relay is acting up. Had a small hunch (and was secretly praying it was something so minor!). I'll get that fixed this weekend. Now, what else can I do to help my WJ run cooler? Cold air filters, Purple Ice, anything? Bueller?
  23. Cool, may be a couple of days until I can get back to the parts store. I'll let you know. Just ran my court run (23mi round trip). A friend and CJ enthusiast advised me to 'burp' my radiator. Squeezed the top hose a couple times with the radiator cap off to purge air from the system. Seemed to work okay. Temp ran up to 230*+ for a few minutes, but ran down quickly after shutting off the A/C. Kept the A/C on low with outside air return on. The temp held just a hair and a half over 210* for the trip. I'm starting to guess, after fiddling with the A/C controls and watching the thermostat guage, that it may be A/C related. The system was purged and refilled last year when I replaced the radiator, but other than that no A/C work has been done. I would suspect that there is a problem affecting the truck. A possibility that I'll figure out this weekend. I'll check the link for the cable and mount. Thanks. Got a guy nearby who carries the Diamond antenna, so covered there. Just need a couple more set screws for the remote mount cables and I'll have that rig up and running in no time. I'll keep ya'll posted. 73 KC5RIL Matt
  24. and the 'check engine' light is still on. How do I get that to STAY off?
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