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Everything posted by LSRGreg

  1. I first used some 3m spray mount. It holds but it doesn't keep the edges down so it looked kinda crappy. So I used some super glue on the edges and that seems to have worked for now.
  2. You are the man! I made my own arm rest pad not too long ago and it came out like crap. So I just ordered a pair from that eBay guy. Awesome find! I was sick of getting stabbed by sharp edges! Haha Thx man!
  3. That is awesome man! Very impressed. I like how it's super simple, light, and doesn't have anything to do with the ground!
  4. Congrats on getting the vibs worked out! I wouldn't have guessed you could see the vibs on the shaft with a camera and it spinning that fast... but I could see it. I think I need to try this out!
  5. Yeah, I have experienced similar noises. Mine doesn't do it very often, and when it does, it usually seems to be right after I switch into 4wd or 4 low. I kind of have a bad habit of going as far as I can in 2wd until I get stuck. Then I'll shift into 4wd. That is usually when it will pop. When it's under load right after getting into 4wd. If I shift into 4wd before obstacles, it won't do it. And when it pops, I can feel the whole jeep jolt like its skipping a tooth or something. So I'm sure mine is getting pretty close. Plus I have a decent amount of movement on my front drive shaft output bearing. I think that is contributing to my vibes. So I will probably need to follow your lead on this sooner than later. Then the question is to finally go sye or not?? Haha. It's only money, right? . Good luck with the rebuild! Curious as to how much the kit set you back and where you got it? Hopefully it's pretty easy to do and doesn't need a bunch of special tools and a press etc.
  6. Uh oh! Tcase rebuild?? I think I am getting pretty close to needing that done too. What case are u running? I hope you post a write up!
  7. Hey Kris, I just wanted to let you know that I have a group buy going for my Incline Bumper I used to make. I have had a bunch of interest lately, so I brought it back. Figured I'd let you know if you had any interest. You might have to slot the mounting holes a tad to clear your skid you added to the lower radiator tube, as the tube on the bumper is only about 1/8" away, and your skid looks a little thicker than that. If you are interested, email me at sales@frantzdesignworks.com and I can get you the info on the group buy. Thanks, Greg.
  8. Thx for the info. That's pretty lame you get to find out about it later tho. I hate it when companies do that!
  9. Question on those rcv joints. Don't those have a lifetime warranty? Did they send you the parts to rebuild them, or? What was worn out? The balls, cages, inner or outer races? I haven't heard of people rebuilding them yet, so I am curious. Thx!
  10. Dang! Bummer! Might be time for a truss. Drill the ends of the crack. Grind out the crack part way on the depth and weld it.
  11. Can't you just do a tie rod flip? I did one on my wj front axle. You drill out the tie rod holes weld in some tapered spacers from the top side, and install the tie rod on the top. Gives lots more clearance. But not sure if you can on the jk axle.
  12. Do you still have the transfer case? I know this is an old post.
  13. ive got 4.56 gears in my WJ with 35's, and i get 12 mpg too. the 4.7 HO motor.. so i'd stick with what you have. The only problem with my gears is i had zero driveshaft vibes when they were stock, but with the 4.56's i get vibes at about 70 to 80 mph.. right in the spot you want to drive at for traveling.. so that was a bummer. Nothing else changed. G-
  14. clayton hands down in the lift department. also, RCV makes their extremely strong front axle shafts and joints for the dana 30 in the WJ. Im running bypass shocks on mine, and while they work awesome performance wise, they drive me nuts in the noise department. The check valves make a ton of noise (i have adjusted mine stiffer than i want them, just to keep the noise down) plus, since they are in a 1 to 1 ratio when mounted on our jeeps, they have very fast piston speeds, that these shocks normally don't see when mounted on a race car with a better 2 to 1 ratio, so over decent size bumps, you get a loud clunking noise like the shock mount bolts are loose. Sounds like metal on metal, but its not. Its just the shock hydraulic-ing. Fox boosted up the nitrogen pressure to absolute max that the seals could take, and its a lot better, but still there when offroading. So if i were to do it over again, i would just get regular 2.0 or 2.5's and call it a day. I drive mine daily though, so i guess it depends on your use, but when in the dirt, the shocks make a lot of noise. According to Fox, the only way to get rid of the clunking noise, is to mount them closer to the middle of the long arms, but then you will need a short shock, have to custom fab mounts, and the long arm pivots aren't designed to have shocks mounted on the arms, so its a recipe for disaster. At that point, you might as well do a pivoting link system.. but its getting very complicated at that point. Better off to just run some hydro bumps, so they only make noise when taking serious hits to protect from bottoming out. Good luck! G-
  15. i hear that! Sorry it hasn't gone well. I made the mistake of doing a front housing rotation to fix the camber, and get the front drive shaft straight, to eliminate my vibes. Since that has been done, it didn't fix the vibes, it seems to drive worse now with the "correct" camber, plus the rotation caused me to cut off sway bar mounts as it wouldn't steer with them in place, my coil springs look like they are going to fly out since they are super bowed, my drag link hits the coil mounts so i lost a decent amount of turning radius, and my shock mounts rotated up so my shocks aren't ideally placed anymore. And to top it all off, i get hints of death wobble now, and never once before has this rig even so much as had a slight shimmy in the suspension ever. So all that work didn't fix what i wanted, plus gave me a lot more things i need to fix. I go new coil mount buckets from clayton, so those need to go on, and that will fix my coils, turning radius, and hopefully give me a spot to locate my sway bar links on, without getting in the way of the steering. So yeah.. definitely not worth it. I should have just left it alone. Now i don't even want to drive this thing to flagstaff... mainly from the vibes.. they almost seem to have gotten worse, and we played with the pinion angle a few times.. so im guessing my t-case bearings have to be going out, or the shaft is just worn out. But yeah.. kinda sucks. haha. Good luck! I hope you can get yours back to where it was!
  16. Yeah they do.. i own the superchips one.. 2004, 4.7L HO engine.. G-
  17. Once you bolt in that front shaft, see if you have any movement right near the yoke on the t-case. I was playing with mine last night, and i can move it up and down a little bit. I adjusted my pinion angle down from where it was set after the rotation, and it was a little better. I actually used an angle finder instead of eye sight like the fabricator did, and that helped. Its livable how it is now at 75, but climb into the 80's and it gets worse. I am not sure if the u-joints might be worn on my shaft, or if there is play in the bearing in the t-case.. Are you going to GSW?? G-
  18. thats awesome man! Glad you got it squared away. My vibes didn't go away with the knuckle twist, so i might be in the same boat. Last night i was pushing up and down on the driveshaft and could feel some movement.. not sure if it was from the double u joint area, or from the t-case bearings. My shaft is the OEM one with 97k miles on it, that i had lengthened. But im good for GSW this weekend, since i am towing it up there. I just need to put together a johnny joint that the snap ring popped out of today, and load it up! G-
  19. Is the new front driveshaft 100% completely new? Or did they rebuild your other one, using some of the same parts? You shouldn't need the double double driveshaft.. and i have heard from people, that those don't really work that well either. If they have tried pointing the pinon all over the place, then it has to be something with the driveshaft itself, or like you mentioned, the transfer case. It could be that the main bearing holding the driveshaft yoke is worn out, allowing it vibrate. Or maybe something is off with the driveshaft. Not perfectly true, out of balance etc.. What gear ratio were you running, and do you have now? I had zero vibes on mine (6" clayton, 242 used t-case swap, and stock gears) up to about 85 mph.. never went any faster. As soon as i swapped in 4:56 gears, i had vibes from the front, and a slight amount from the back, right at about 70 to 75 mph.. but they are kind of intermittent. Its not constant.. more like oscillation. And some times on decel its worse.. So with the gears, i know the shafts are spinning much faster, and since it isn't constant, i am thinking i might have a bad bearing in my t-case too.. Right now, i am getting the front axle trussed, sleeved, c-gusseted, and having the knuckles rotated so i can get perfect pinion and caster angles. If i still have the vibes, then i am going to blame my t-case bearings, and see whats up there as a next step. Oh.. and i have still have a slip yoke rear driveshaft like stock. Just a little longer to reach rear axle.. but my tires give me more vibes than the rear driveshaft does.. its very minimal. Good luck!! G-
  20. where did you take it for this fab work?? Don't forget to post the pics when you get it back!!
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