FlyingWen's KJ

[flyingwil 0]

 

Mods will go here after I finish...

[flyingwil 0]

The KJ had 245/75 R16 Goodyear MT/R tires mounted on wheels off of a Jeep Rubicon Wrangler.

 

We also have a full size matching spare:

 

Also some required stickers can be seen on the rear window.

 

We later replaced them with new shoes...so here's pic of old (back) and new:

 

 

We also painted the wheels black. I started cleaning the wheels by hand and got fed up, and decided to sandblast the rubi wheels.

 

After some cleaning I primed everything with self etching primer:

 

Then came the black paint:

 

Here's how it sat as of this exact moment, the center caps are missing, as we are going to emphasize the JEEP portion of the center caps in a girly color to match the purple hi-lift, so FlyingWen can stop getting haggled at the fuel pumps... "so, your husband let you drive his Jeep" We went and picked out a color at hobby loby. We tried nail polish, but it made some funky bond with the plastics and the paint.

 

 

 

I was a bit worried about the ProComp tires, but it was nice to be able to only hear the catback exhaust and no more tire noise!

[flyingwil 0]

We ended up with purple:

Purple shackles under the ARB:

 

Purple Hi-Lift:

 

Purple Jeep Logo on the Rubi Wheels:

 

Purple receiver Shackle on the rear bumper:

[flyingwil 0]

The factory roof rack/ rails were removed and replaced with a Con-Ferr roof rack by the prior owner.

 

 

The rack was replaced with a BajaRack Mule rack ans we put some back up lights on per the following write-up:

 

Time:

Aprox 2 hours

 

Tools:

Basic tools required.

 

Since we were installing a BajaRack Mule in place of the Con-Ferr roofrack, a new rack subframe was fabricated by Built II Beat Fabrication. The goal was to keep the rack as low as possible and as you can see it was accomplished nicely.

 

Here is the rack subframe:

 

 

 

 

We decided on using two LightForce Stubby's as back-up lights. These light offer great light output and flexibility to redirect with ease. While the KJ was at the fabrication shop, we had them weld in two mounting plates for the Stubby's bases.

 

Here is the lights mounted to the rack:

 

 

 

After the lights were installed, on to my favorite...wiring. We wanted to be able to use the lights in multiple situations, and toyed with many options from an on-off-on switch to just an on-off. For ease of installation we decided to base everything off the LightForce Wiring Harness, since they are very well built and the switch will match the front LightForce 170 switch on the KJ now. Below is my modified diagram of the LightForce harness:

 

 

Note:

I put a 1N4004 diode(*) in series with the OEM reverse light feed to the relay. This will isolate the OEM reverse light circuit from the aux switch, which is going to feed the same terminal on the relay. Then, when I activate the switch to turn the relay on, it will not backfeed the OEM reverse light circuit. Not that the latter is a bad thing, I just don't know how the OEM circuit works and it may not appreciate 12V being fed back into it. The effect of this isolation is that the OEM reverse lights (in the rear tail lamps) will not come on when I activate the switch.

(*) if you don't have a 1N4004 diode handy, try radio shack, a 1N4001 or 1N4002 will work as well. It's just that the 1N4004 type is near indestructible in an automotive application.

 

So now the big question, where to tap into the reverse lights? Looking at the FSM, I was able to dig up the following in regards to the reverse lights on 8Wa - 80 - 76:

 

This led me to testing the Brown wire with the green stripe on the Drivers rear tail lamp connector. This wire goes into socket 4 (highlighted yellow). It tested good when the KJ was shifted into reverse. So I traced the Brown wire with a Green stripe to the cargo compartment just under the hinge for the rear door. I figured this would be as good of a place as any to mount the relay as the wires would need to be fed up to the roof.... ah, the next decision, how to run the wires?

 

So after a while of pondering and looking down on the roof of the KJ, I decided it was best to just drill a hole to feed the wires through. Since I would like to keep the rack removable, we decided that trailer wire extensions would make the perfect quick disconnects. I tested the wires through a bunch of groments from the toolbox and finally landed on the smallest one I could get, a 7/16".

 

 

So now where to drill the hole? Looking down on the roof, you can see that we have a nice ding with a tad bit of rust... So I was thinking that would be a good spot, however I want the disconnects to be as hidden as possible, so it was moved a bit rear ward of where the rust spot is.

 

 

Here you can see the hole drilled:

 

 

The hole was filed smooth, and treated with some touch up paint to prevent rust. While the paint was drying it was time to start running the wiring. I had to extend both the Positive and the Negative wires. I wanted to keep the Fuse for the positive as close to the battery as possible, so I kept that the stock length and spliced between the fuse and the relay, matching the gauge wire (12g). Fuses were mounted just below the drivers side battery strut as shown below:

 

 

I like to ground off the battery when possible, so since I was already running one cable two wouldn't kill me. So I also did the same with a 12g ground wire. Since I was going to have the relay in the rear this was also the prime opportunity to run the wires for the switch. I drilled a new hole for the switch, and in it went. I feed the positive off the already fused positive input for the Lightforce 170's.

 

 

 

 

The Ground, and Positve (FUSED) wires were ran through the driver's side firewall grommet, I joined the switch wire into the harness under the diver kick panel and routed the harness though both door sills and to the rear under the plastics.

 

It was now time address the new hole in the roof now that the touch up paint was dry(er)and get the harness prepared for the lights. Since the trailer adapters were larger than the grommet and the hole, this took some planning. I removed the wires from the relay block so I had a free end to deal with when feeding the wires through the hole. I soldered every splice and connection for rigidity, plus I never have luck with crimp joints. I didn't have any shrink tubing, so I used a heavy dose of electrical tape.

 

Here you can see the light harness ready to be fed through the hole in the roof:

 

 

Once the wire was feed through the hole in the roof the wires were routed down the C Pillar to the relay.

[flyingwil 0]

Continued...

 

 

In the above picture you can see a factory harness. I zip tied my harness along this strip to tie it to the Jeep and keep it from rattling when on/off the highway. The top exposed wires were treated with some RTV silicone to prevent water ingress through the grommet, and allowed to dry while I began wiring the the Stubby lights.

 

The Stubby's do not come with wire leads out of the lamp, so I soldered and crimped connectors on to the lights as shown below:

 

 

I routed the cable through some wire loom, and used UV Zip ties to connect it to the rack as shown below:

 

 

 

 

Now it was time to test it out. Every thing worked as planned, so every interior panel was re-snapped back on. By this time it was dark so I did not get a good shot of where I mounted the relay. I mounted the relay to the rear pillar just in front of the "vent".

 

Here's some night pics of the lights in action:

 

headlights on, switch on:

 

Headlights on, in reverse:

 

Final Thoughts:

The light output is great, and far better than stock. The lights wired in this manner, the lights automatically turn on when shifted into reverse (doesn't matter where the switch is, ie: on or off), and this feature is very nice, however once the rack is off this will mean that the trailer harness (my quick connects) are live any time shifted to reverse. A simple plastic cover remedy's this issue. The ability to switch on is going to be fun. Not just for tailgaters, but for setting up camp, loading and unloading at night, or just general light where and when needed. I am very pleased with the overall outcome of the installation.

[flyingwil 0]

We all have a handful of the trusty MagLight flashlights laying around. In our case my husband has quite a few laying around in the closets, vehicles, and storage containers. Many of us have one in our Jeep's, and for what ever reason the MagLight mount never seems to last. Well, the stock MagLight mount finally broke on my KJ (installed by the prior owner), and so it was time for the proper mount to be installed.

 

To mount the MagLight, in my case a three D cell flashlight, I used a set of QuickFist Clamps on the side of the driver's seat mounts. Here's a quick write up:

 

Install Time: Aprox 5 min.

Tools Needed: Drill, Drill Bit, Wrench, Marker

Hardware needed: 1 pack of QuickFist Clamps, 2 #10 screws, washers, and nuts.

 

Step 1: Mark the location where you place the #10 screw to mount the QuickFist Clamps as seen here:

 

Step 2: Drill holes to accommodate the #10 Screws as seen below:

 

Step 3: Install #10 screws into QuickFist Clamps using the washers provided in the package.

 

Step 4: Install to seat mount using the washers and nuts. Be careful not to over tighten, and tighten just enough to prevent the mounts from rotating.

 

Step 5: Install flashlight and enjoy!!!

 

 

 

 

Note: I am sure many of you have figured this out, but to help reduce the noise of the batteries when going over bumps or washboard, we wrap each our batteries with duct tape. Start at the seam on the side, and wrap 3 times using the factory seam as reference point. Make sure that you can remove the batteries and not to over wrap them. It works like a charm!

 

 

[flyingwil 0]

From our blog:

 

Well I though I would get started on lifting, or re-lifting the KJ today. What a pain. I was hoping to get the front done before it got dark, so I started around 3:30 PM. I started on the passenger side since it has the CAI and I figured it was easier than pulling the battery and electrical goodies.

 

So off I went and pulled out the old struts, springs and upper A arms. To my surprise, I went to pull the tire off and notice it was missing 2 lug nuts. The studs had been completely broken off. (note to self, next time torque wheels to specs). So good thing I had a few in the spare parts bucket for the Jeep and I allready had everything off, so just one more thing added to the list no big deal.

 

So I got everything off which was rather easy. Here you can see the old lift compared to the new lift for the front:

 

To allow for maximum travel on the front with the JBA 4.5 A arms, we needed to cut the pockets a bit more. Here is before and after:

 

Before:

 

After:

 

Testing with out the springs in allowed the A arms to go clear to the top and clear to the bottom (where it would interfere with the springs). So I hit it all with a coat a paint, and pounded a bit more of the pinch weld, and areas the 245/75R16 rubbed since we are now running 265/75R16's. Then hit it all with under coating after the paint had dried to touch. Will have to report if future rubbing issues occur.

 

Now came the fun part. I was alone and doing this in my driveway, installing the clevis is a PAI. MAJOR PAIN! It took me about 2 hours to line them to the lower arm to get the bolt through. what fun... Luckily FlyingWen came out at that point to help and we were able to get it to line up.

 

Got everything on and back together, and at this point it was getting late to be using air tools in the driveway, so only the front passenger side is done, but I am excited to get the other side complete and get the rear done.

 

Here is the best pic I could get at 10:00pm and as she sits now. I like!

 

List for tomorrow:

 

[*]install drivers side suspension

[*]install new battery tie down

[*]rear suspension

[*]Fix lectrical issues with coms and sunroof

[*]try and finish before dark and not over heat (at least it is cooling down and tomorrow is a foretasted high of 97°)

[*] TEST DRIVE!!!

 

Here you can see the driver's side installed and ready to go.

 

Of course the chrome lug nuts had to go with the black wheels!

 

Rear's installed and all ready to go:

 

New Battery Tie Down:

 

 

 

All done:

 

 

All and all it went well... Mid front I looked down and saw the drippings from the PB Blaster, and some red fluids. I kept trying to figure out how the jeep could be leaking hydraulic fluid. Well I guess the saying "blood sweat and tears" came into play.

 

Warning Graphic Pics Click links if you want to see.

Ground View

 

Jeep View

 

All it was, was a small nick on my elbow the size of a common plantar wart. LOL

[flyingwil 0]

The engine bay is very clean, the KJ has an K&N filter and a Magnaflow exhaust. The exhaust is very quiet compared the the Calmini Exhaust on the Xterra.

 

 

At this point it has an Optima Red Top, but it will be replaced with an Odyssey or two down the road.

 

Waiting on the Safari Snorkel to arrive...

[flyingwil 0]

The Rear of the KJ has been regeared to 410's (front too!), and added protection on the Axle. Hidden on the inside of this is a Detroit Locker. It makes backing up fun!

[flyingwil 0]

The front bumper was replaced with an ARB bumper. I love the looks of it and knowing that it is airbag compliant and crash tested. Plus I haven't seen too many other KJ's with an ARB. The factory fog lights were repositioned into the bumper, and a set of LightForce 170's on the front above the Warn winch.

 

 

 

Guess who installed a set of LightFoce 170's?

 

Yup, me! They look right at home on the KJ...

 

 

 

Mounting was pretty basic... I removed the odd eyelet that was used as a winch hook hold (that took the longest!) and a LightForce Wiring Harness.

 

Once the eyelet was off... the ARB Bumper got a touch up paint job to prevent rust as seen below:

 

Once the paint had dried for 30 min... the tape was removed....

 

And the mounts were installed:

 

Switch was mounted next to the factory roof light switch. The hole had to be drilled through both the metal facet and the two layers of plastic.

 

Then the switch was installed and the molding placed back onto the dash. Looks pretty good to me!

 

All done!!!

 

 

Then off to the trails!!!