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alainsnyder

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About alainsnyder

  • Rank
    Amateur Traveler

Basic Info

  • Rig
    2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
  • Location
    Mesa, Arizona

My Details

  • First Name
    Alain
  • HAM Call-sign
    K7ARB
  1. Hey you guys, the new JK is looking great!
  2. Thank you gents. Oh and ob1, I am encouraged by your thoughts on the cage. Thanks for sharing.
  3. I just put one of those ^^^ on my list. Thanks gents.
  4. While browsing at Industrial Metals one Saturday morning, I found a great deal on a bit of remnant chromoly DOM steel tube, and thought it was a perfect opportunity to do something about my rear LCA’s, which were still factory. This is a cross-section comparison to the factory rear LCA: I ordered Currie Johnny Joints and tube adapters: Sized up and prepped for welding: And fini:
  5. I also needed to decide where to put the Tire Pressure Set Point Valve. When airing up, this device will prevent over-inflation of the tires by bleeding off once your preferred tire pressure has been reached. You adjust the device using a jam nut which compresses an internal spring. The spring that is installed when you receive the kit is for preferred pressure points between 32 and 100 PSI. They also include a second spring for preferred pressure points between 7 and 31 PSI, which is the one I used. I need to be able to hear this to know when my preferred pressure has been reached, so I installed it on the other side of the front bumper: Here is a very short video that demonstrates what that sounds like: You connect your tires to the plumbing using “tire whips”. These use connectors that push on to your valve stems and the air valves in the wheel wells. To air down, you connect the tire whips at each wheel, then open the main valve. After 4 minutes and 30 seconds, all four of my tires were at 11.5 PSI. When airing down, there is no device that stops the process; you need to monitor it. My plan is to open the valve, then set the timer on my iPhone for 4 minutes, then I can start monitoring pressure. You can monitor pressure with a gauge while it is airing down thusly: To air up after the run, you connect your tire whips, then plug your air line from the compressor into the main valve and watch them air up. When your TPSV valve starts burping (or farting, depending on your preference), it's time to go home. It took 5 minutes and 45 seconds for all 4 tires to air up from 11.5 PSI to 30 PSI using an ARB twin.
  6. Next up is an air distribution system called “2Way Air” by Rocksmasher Engineering. This is not an air source, meaning it does not come with a compressor (unless you order one with it). It is merely a distribution system, which is permanently plumbed in your Jeep and takes air from your air source and distributes it evenly to all four tires at the same time. It also airs down all four tires simultaneously. I'm a DIY guy, so when I first saw this system I said to myself, “I'm going to source those parts myself and save an ***-load of money”. I was wrong. I wasn't 75% finished sourcing the parts when I hit the retail cost of this system, so I gave up on parts sourcing and ordered the kit. These can be purchased online at: Forum Sponsor 4Wheelair - http://www.4wheelair.com/ Rocksmasher Engineering - http://rocksmasher.com/ (lot's of great videos at this site) Northridge 4X4 - http://www.northridge4x4.com/ Outside of some common tools, the kit comes with everything needed to complete the installation except Teflon thread paste, which I recommend highly. http://www.lowes.com/pd_23502-138-31229L_0__?productId=4754108&Ntt=pipe+joint+compound&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dpipe%2Bjoint%2Bcompound&facetInfo= Here is how it shows up, with different parts of the system bagged separately: Here is everything laid out: First I had to decide where to set up the air connection at each wheel. You can drill a 5/16” hole anywhere you like. I decided I would weld some small tabs to the frame: Once the 4 tabs were in place, and the inflation valves installed at each wheel, it was a simple matter to follow the included diagram to plumb the system with the polyurethane tubing and push to connect fittings. Check out http://rocksmasher.com/ to see some video of that process. For me, the most difficult part of the installation was deciding where to put the main control section. I could have hidden it away anywhere on the frame to keep it out of sight, but you really need access to this piece. I ultimately decided to install it on the front bumper. It's not pretty, but it gives plenty of access: .
  7. I replaced my 35’s with more new 35’s (MTR/K). 37’s will have to wait until it becomes a trailer queen, if ever. Oh and remember that tie rod I just installed a few posts ago? Bent it up badly on its second wheeling trip. In goes a Synergy chromo tie rod: It was either this, or I learn to drive better.
  8. Time to protect my egg with a Rock Hard sport cage. I didn’t have the stones to hack up my dash for the Synergy weld-in cage. Maybe in a few years.
  9. Christmas gift from my lovely wife – AmSteel Blue synthetic winch rope (it’s not really blue though) Replaced the drag link and ends, and rolled the dice on another factory tie rod and ends. Well at least these are grease-able.
  10. Next up was some front axle work. I purchased the Artec truss and heavy duty track bar mount. Very beefy: I noticed that my ball joints had axial play in the lowers. These are the Alloy USA ball joints, which have similar design and construction as Synergy, but with a five year warranty. Well here’s what mine looked like after being installed for one year: When I noticed this, I immediately ordered some Synergys from Amazon because I did not have time to wait for the warranty process. This was over the Thanksgiving weekend, and I had to get my axle back in. As it turns out, Alloy was awesome to work with. I filed my claim on Saturday or Sunday, and by end of day Monday they had agreed to send me a replacement set. I don’t even have to send the old ones in. I’m sure the Synergys will be trashed in a year as well, so I’d better save the replacement set from Alloy for that eventuality. New ball joints and UCA bushings installed and axle painted: Installed:
  11. For a long time I’ve wanted to do something about the rear lower control arm mounts. They were just beat to death from being dragged over rocks and were really getting thin at the lower shock mounts. The factory mounts were a bit thicker than I thought they were. Not quite 3/16, but bigger than 10 gauge. I purchased these ¼ inch thick brackets from Artec Industries, which have a built in skid for the control arm and shock. Artec was very helpful with advising me on the best way to locate them in the proper spot. Here the axle is painted and re-installed: And since I had a bent axle shaft flange on the driver’s side, here’s a new set of chromos from Ten Factory.
  12. I installed some rear quarter panel armor and LED tail lights from Or-Fab: Then I installed some Poison Spyder rocker armor underneath the tube sliders: Fabricated a CB mount to the rear plate:
  13. I am embarrassingly behind on my own thread! I will attempt to update... Next was a 15" LED light bar from Mic Tuning.
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