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alainsnyder

My 2008 JK Rubicon Project

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Time to protect my egg with a Rock Hard sport cage. I didn’t have the stones to hack up my dash for the Synergy weld-in cage. Maybe in a few years.

 

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I replaced my 35’s with more new 35’s (MTR/K). 37’s will have to wait until it becomes a trailer queen, if ever. Oh and remember that tie rod I just installed a few posts ago? Bent it up badly on its second wheeling trip. In goes a Synergy chromo tie rod:

 

2DCD3B26-16A6-45CF-8D0D-5F2068F892E5_zpsvkw6zvfj.jpg

 

 

 

 

It was either this, or I learn to drive better.

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2 Meter ham radio installed:

 

 

 

 

 

415BB15D-466D-4328-BBAF-D0C6F885ED1A_zpsfvcr4u7o.jpg

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Next up is an air distribution system called “2Way Air” by Rocksmasher Engineering. This is not an air source, meaning it does not come with a compressor (unless you order one with it). It is merely a distribution system, which is permanently plumbed in your Jeep and takes air from your air source and distributes it evenly to all four tires at the same time. It also airs down all four tires simultaneously.

 

 

I'm a DIY guy, so when I first saw this system I said to myself, “I'm going to source those parts myself and save an ***-load of money”. I was wrong. I wasn't 75% finished sourcing the parts when I hit the retail cost of this system, so I gave up on parts sourcing and ordered the kit.

 

 

These can be purchased online at:

Forum Sponsor 4Wheelair - http://www.4wheelair.com/

Rocksmasher Engineering - http://rocksmasher.com/ (lot's of great videos at this site)

Northridge 4X4 - http://www.northridge4x4.com/

 

 

Outside of some common tools, the kit comes with everything needed to complete the installation except Teflon thread paste, which I recommend highly.

 

 

http://www.lowes.com/pd_23502-138-31229L_0__?productId=4754108&Ntt=pipe+joint+compound&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dpipe%2Bjoint%2Bcompound&facetInfo=

 

 

 

Here is how it shows up, with different parts of the system bagged separately:

 

 

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Here is everything laid out:

 

 

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First I had to decide where to set up the air connection at each wheel. You can drill a 5/16” hole anywhere you like. I decided I would weld some small tabs to the frame:

 

 

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Once the 4 tabs were in place, and the inflation valves installed at each wheel, it was a simple matter to follow the included diagram to plumb the system with the polyurethane tubing and push to connect fittings. Check out http://rocksmasher.com/ to see some video of that process. For me, the most difficult part of the installation was deciding where to put the main control section.

 

 

I could have hidden it away anywhere on the frame to keep it out of sight, but you really need access to this piece. I ultimately decided to install it on the front bumper. It's not pretty, but it gives plenty of access:

 

 

E71168F2-E7B3-47C9-AC87-895AE2DC3E97_zpsyp5lkaea.jpg.

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I also needed to decide where to put the Tire Pressure Set Point Valve. When airing up, this device will prevent over-inflation of the tires by bleeding off once your preferred tire pressure has been reached. You adjust the device using a jam nut which compresses an internal spring. The spring that is installed when you receive the kit is for preferred pressure points between 32 and 100 PSI. They also include a second spring for preferred pressure points between 7 and 31 PSI, which is the one I used.

 

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I need to be able to hear this to know when my preferred pressure has been reached, so I installed it on the other side of the front bumper:

 

 

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Here is a very short video that demonstrates what that sounds like:

 

 

 

You connect your tires to the plumbing using “tire whips”. These use connectors that push on to your valve stems and the air valves in the wheel wells.

 

 

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To air down, you connect the tire whips at each wheel, then open the main valve. After 4 minutes and 30 seconds, all four of my tires were at 11.5 PSI. When airing down, there is no device that stops the process; you need to monitor it. My plan is to open the valve, then set the timer on my iPhone for 4 minutes, then I can start monitoring pressure. You can monitor pressure with a gauge while it is airing down thusly:

 

 

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To air up after the run, you connect your tire whips, then plug your air line from the compressor into the main valve and watch them air up. When your TPSV valve starts burping (or farting, depending on your preference), it's time to go home. It took 5 minutes and 45 seconds for all 4 tires to air up from 11.5 PSI to 30 PSI using an ARB twin.

 

 

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While browsing at Industrial Metals one Saturday morning, I found a great deal on a bit of remnant chromoly DOM steel tube, and thought it was a perfect opportunity to do something about my rear LCA’s, which were still factory.

 

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This is a cross-section comparison to the factory rear LCA:

 

 

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I ordered Currie Johnny Joints and tube adapters:

 

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Sized up and prepped for welding:

 

 

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And fini:

 

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This is turning into one very nice Jeep.

 

G :cool:

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Nice work and write up Alain, i think it sounds more like a fart than a burp. Got one of these guys on my jeep too VVVV

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Not to worry about the Rock-Hard Cage. Unless you're racing @ high speeds, or fall over a couple-a-three hundred foot drop, it will give you all the protection you'll ever need… ;)

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Thank you gents.

 

 

Oh and ob1, I am encouraged by your thoughts on the cage. Thanks for sharing.

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