ob1jeeper 849 Posted June 8, 2012 Meaning I'm going to sell the Dirt-Bound shroud & the 4 fans I bought. I'm NOT selling Clifford in case that's what you think I said... Hey Wayne! I added Water Wetter recently. NO DIFFERENCE. I don't know what the manuals say, but for the record I didn't notice any cooler water temperatures. For what it is worth, SOME fan/shroud configurations can actually cause restriction to radiator cooling air flow at "road speeds" (over 30 mph). The more "closed" in design the fan is, the more restrictive it will be to high volume air flow during 30+ mph driving. Which BTW is not atypical of many (not all... but many) electric fan configurations. The small lateral space between the rad and the front of the engine compounds the issue of restrictive fan configurations Couple that with the fact that any type of fan NEEDS to be an inch (preferably more) aft of the core fins, otherwise it can create "eddy's" which in essence reduce effectiveness and increase flow restriction... Which is not all that different from a cavitating boat prop in the water, in which case the boat fails to move at expected rates, no matter how much harder you push the throttle, because the prop is simply slipping creating low enough pressures on the surfaces of the prop to cause air bubbles to form, then the prop is simply left to stir the water. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crgeorge 23 Posted June 8, 2012 I think this has turned out to be a cool build. Two very close friends of mine have XJ's and one of them had terrible problems with overheating after installing a rebuild I6. It turned out there was some slag inside the water jacket in the head that was apparently causing just enough cavitation in the flow of water that it was overheating something bad. They took the die grinder to the slag, cleaned it up, and it runs fine now. Before, they tried everything, added cooling fans, bigger radiator, nothing worked. Chad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 89 Posted June 9, 2012 I think this has turned out to be a cool build. Two very close friends of mine have XJ's and one of them had terrible problems with overheating after installing a rebuild I6. It turned out there was some slag inside the water jacket in the head that was apparently causing just enough cavitation in the flow of water that it was overheating something bad. They took the die grinder to the slag, cleaned it up, and it runs fine now. Before, they tried everything, added cooling fans, bigger radiator, nothing worked. Chad. I should take the head off and see what is going on in there. I know I can take it apart but I need to do some reserch so I can put it back togather correctly. George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
In-A-Rut 3 Posted June 10, 2012 If you need help I am here for you. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crgeorge 23 Posted June 10, 2012 Hi George, it's just a suggestion. My friend Gary tried everything before he finally took it apart. I don't have them, but he sent me a picture of how the casting/slag was blocking almost 1/2 of the water passage. He tried a bigger radiator, dual electric cooling fans (still has if for sale by the way, he took it back out), new high flow water pump, cooler thermostat, etc. If it's not a daily driver, it may be worth taking it apart. Chad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 89 Posted June 11, 2012 If you need help I am here for you. I did some research and the head install does not seem too hard, I want to take my time and do a perfect job. Thanks for the offer to help Mike, if I get stuck I know you're close by. George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 89 Posted June 11, 2012 Hi George, it's just a suggestion. My friend Gary tried everything before he finally took it apart. I don't have them, but he sent me a picture of how the casting/slag was blocking almost 1/2 of the water passage. He tried a bigger radiator, dual electric cooling fans (still has if for sale by the way, he took it back out), new high flow water pump, cooler thermostat, etc. If it's not a daily driver, it may be worth taking it apart. Chad. I have been thinking that clogged water passages might be the problem, and now that the cooling system is drained I want to pull the head and see what is going on in there. George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
In-A-Rut 3 Posted June 13, 2012 Make sure you keep the push rods and rockers in order. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 89 Posted June 13, 2012 Make sure you keep the push rods and rockers in order. I have not started to take anything apart yet. I have boxes ready to put every thing in order. How tight should the rockers be when they get reinstalled? Also I need to find a good shop to test and if need be rebuild the head. George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
In-A-Rut 3 Posted June 15, 2012 There is no lash spec for that motor. If you see damage on the rod ends or rockers you will need to consider getting new ones. I don't know of any shops or even a process for testing coolant flow through the head, most of the times they are flow testing the head for intake and exhaust flow. If the vales are good and there is no damage to the head deck you should not need a rebuild. Make sure you take the water pump off so you can see the side of cylinder #1. Quick question for you, when you increased the fuel pressure and swapped the injectors did you do any thing to the air intake & exhaust? Could some of your heat problem be due to an inability to remove hot exhaust form the combustion chamber forcing the coolant to become hotter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
