ob1jeeper 448 Posted January 21 2 hours ago, jgaz said: Two for two! Tim has me however because if I ever used mine for it’s intended purpose I sure don’t remember. Agreed Jim... Have used them a few times as designed, but it comes in VERY handy for "other" project needs... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stacey and Scott 1,102 Posted January 22 16 minutes ago, theksmith said: Stealthy Beast, beautiful sunset 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,590 Posted January 22 2 minutes ago, Stacey and Scott said: Stealthy Beast, beautiful sunset thanks! the lines and colors in the photo made me think of this: 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SonoranWanderer 381 Posted January 24 On 1/19/2023 at 7:29 AM, theksmith said: the downside of countersunk bolts is there's no easy way to deal with a stripped head, so i always use anti-seize to make sure i can get them back out easily - and am super careful to fully seat the hex bit when using an impact gun. Having just had a factory (10.9) skid plate bolt back itself out and drop off ('18 JLUR), do you not worry about that problem with the anti-sieze? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,590 Posted January 25 8 hours ago, SonoranWanderer said: Having just had a factory (10.9) skid plate bolt back itself out and drop off ('18 JLUR), do you not worry about that problem with the anti-sieze? never had one even feel remotely loose when removing them. it could be the additional contact area of the countersunk head helping hold them in, or maybe i'm using one too many ugga duggas? i've never had one of the factory bolts down there back out either though (i don't use anti-seize on them)... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SonoranWanderer 381 Posted January 25 11 hours ago, theksmith said: never had one even feel remotely loose when removing them. it could be the additional contact area of the countersunk head helping hold them in, or maybe i'm using one too many ugga duggas? i've never had one of the factory bolts down there back out either though (i don't use anti-seize on them)... I had never had a factory bolt back out either, until it just did a few weeks ago. I'm kinda still in "shock" over that back-out since most Chrysler/Jeep factory frame bolts come with a Loctite 242 like substance on them. I mean I suppose somebody could have just stolen it (sarcasm, not likely, but hey who knows). It is a mild pain to go order one or try and find a M12x1.5 10.9 (SAE grade 8) locally. Speaking of which I need to order one since all I found locally so far were metric 8.8 (SAE grade 5). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,590 Posted January 25 1 minute ago, SonoranWanderer said: I had never had a factory bolt back out either, until it just did a few weeks ago. I'm kinda still in "shock" over that back-out since most Chrysler/Jeep factory frame bolts come with a Loctite 242 like substance on them. I mean I suppose somebody could have just stolen it (sarcasm, not likely, but hey who knows). It is a mild pain to go order one or try and find a M12x1.5 10.9 (SAE grade 8) locally. Speaking of which I need to order one since all I found locally so far were metric 8.8 (SAE grade 5). 10.9 is hard to find locally sometimers, and Jeep also likes to use non-common thread pitches on some of their larger bolts that make those a PITA to source. FYI, the Paradise Valley Ace Hardware has one of the better fastener selections of any nearby. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,590 Posted January 28 the new lower control arm is installed and i adjusted the caster quite a bit, still dialing it in though. the custom brake lines finally shipped out yesterday and are supposed to arrive Monday. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,590 Posted January 30 (edited) i got the front axle rotation dialed in. my only limiting factor for caster now (thanks to the locking hubs preventing highway vibes) is the operating angle on the front-most drive shaft u-joint. specifically the Neapco 1350 slip-yoke side of that joint claims a max of 20*. my first guess on length for the lower control arms put that joint about 21* at full axle droop (pinion was down ~3* and DS was at ~18*). it actually seemed to rotate without binding, but that didn't allow any room for bushings to compress, etc. ...so i shortened the lower arms a full turn to reduce that angle just a bit and called it good. i ended up with somewhere around 8.5* of caster at ride height, which really improved tracking on the freeway. i love how she drives now - without the vibration i keep going faster than i realize though! Edited January 30 by theksmith 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
