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DanJL

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DanJL last won the day on April 6

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About DanJL

  • Rank
    Overlander

Basic Info

  • Rig
    Jeep JK Rubi Ultd 2013
  • Location
    Scottsdale, AZ, USA

My Details

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  1. That was the same code I used to fight. Checked wires, sensor, tighten the screws on the back of the cam valves (whatever are called, but according to some forums those were causing problems for some), everything. The code only came on once in a blue moon, the Jeep went in limp mode, had to clear the DTC, and all would be normal. In the end I think that it was all due to the AMOIL viscosity I was using. I forgot what grade it was, it was whatever their site recommend, but it was different than the OEM rec. Once I switch to OEM spec and MobileONE never had that code again.
  2. And I thought that heated seats were fancy:
  3. DanJL

    Casper build

    The 392 has a v. small cubby, where some folks installed their Twin ARBs. To top it off, the 2024 has powerseats and most solutions don't work with that. Kraken has one solution, but after shipping ($70) it's almost $400 (granted, you get a full system). Innovative Products has a cheaper identical solution in works, sans all the Kraken branding, but is not out yet. I'm not a fan to underseat mounting anyway since they protrude, so here's a thought on using the M.A.S.S. Storage – Back Seat Shelf as a holder for the ARB Twin: Fits very nicely, but it just a tad too "fat" and protrudes a bit: I was hoping that it will fit behind the fridge, but there's no space for it, so instead it would go on the passenger's side of the platform: Here is with about 1" space between the compressor and the rear seat: The two images above shows it pushed by 1" or so to give it enough space the breath and heat dissipate. To give a perspective, the end of the shelf unit ends where the subwoofer speaker starts, so no obstruction of the sound. Not sure if I will or not go this way. The AAL shelf is very smart at utilizing "dead" space. Kinda thorn between this or a under the passenger seat option... To be continued.
  4. DanJL

    Casper build

    I'm done with installing the fridge using the AAL Flat Slide – 6×4 sitting on top of the AAL M.A.S.S. Storage Platform. My old trusty Original ARB fridge (10+ yrs old) lost its latch. Lucky its replacement part is in the mail. Observations: 1 - to install the MASS base, one ,obviously, needs to remove the cargo area carpet. This carpet has a very thick (3/4"?) acoustic insulation built into it. I assume Mopar had a reason for that, so I've used Killmat acoustic deadening self-sticking tiles over the entire cargo are where bare metal body is exposed. On top of that I've added a lot of close cell acoustic foam trying to replicate the effect of the above mentioned foam. I went a little overboard and added some Kilmat strips to the supporting MASS platform rails to mitigate any potential future rattling, as well as laying some tiles on the bottom of the two platform plates (not shown). And yet, it was STILL rattling when I was hitting the platform. Here's the culprit: 2 -The lower trim on the very bottom of the rear seats also needs to be removed to install the M.A.S.S platform. This leaves a long bare metal plate on top of which the far end of the platform rests. I've tried adding Kilmat to isolate contact between the two metals with minimal impact. Also, since driving (particularly off-road) friction between that plate and the platform would "eat" the Kilmat, so I've added a long strip of Velcro, one side to the platform, the other side to the rear seat base plate which fixed the rattling once and for all: 3 - AAL can do better with their screws: There are only 4 punny (two in front and two in the back) screws holding the slide onto the platform. I have a bit of a fear that when my ARB fridge is loaded, and the slide fully extended, they'll give. I've glued them in-place with red thread-lock, but still. Here's one of the screws:
  5. DanJL

    Casper build

    The 392 has a very tinny cubby due to its exhaust. That space will be dead space once the AAL platform will seat on top of it. To reclaim it, I'm using the AAL cubby bracket to hold my Yaesu FDR-400 and Midland MTX-275 radios. The Yaesu sits on the bottom and I've made a quick and dirty bracket to attach the lighter and smaller Midland on top of it: I had to drill some access hole on the sides of the AAL bracket in order to be able to tighten and insert the screws: I've put some velcro on the bottom to avoid any potential vibration noise: Finished installing. Waiting on some cables and adaptors: I'm still waiting on some RJ11 cables to run the mics and the head their proper location. I'll update as work progresses.
  6. DanJL

    Casper build

    I've installed two antenna supports for my HAM and GSRM on the back of the spare tire bracket. They site high enough to get good signal (finger crossed) and clear the rear windshield wiper. Note that to properly secure them I had to remove the spare. They're spaced far enough to not cause interference, but in practice I'll use one radio at the time anyway. Few notes: - the Mopar Reinforced Tire Carrier is incompatible with most mounts, like the ones found on amazon. Also those mounts sit a lot lower.
  7. DanJL

    Casper build

    I've also installed the Lasfit hood lock. To give a bit of background on what this lock does: It allows one to lock/unlock the hood along with the locking/unlocking of the doors via the remote fob. It also has a manual release via a cable situated along with a master on/off button in the cabin. Again, some observations: - Any MY2024: be prepared to encounter issues with anything that has to do with interior work. Everything under the driver footwell are is different than prior years. Gone is a lot of metal framing, being redesigned with what seems glass reinforced plastic. For example the OBD connector used to be on a small bracket held in place by a bolt. This is where the emergency hood release was supposed to go. No bueno. Had to cut the Lasfit bracket like a can and redesign a different bracket. This applies to the RSE button btw. - The routing of the air and emergency release cable described by the Lasfit is not optimal in my view. I routed them by the top rail of the radiator frame. Shorter and invisible. - Another note, Lasfit could've used more flexible hoses. The ones shipped are super stiff and a real pin to deal with. Not a dealbreaker though. There are two pieces that need to be installed under the dash, the button/emergency release and the controller/pump. For the controller/pump I wrapped it up in velcro using the softer side the velcro. This will act not only to stick, but also to cushion and eliminate any potential vibration cased noise. The rougher side of the velcro is attached like a blanket over the components under the steering (there's a small support bar and a top of an electronic device - didn't pay attention to what that is). The controller box sits very secure sandwiched there: For the button/release: hold the bracket in your hand with the button towards you and take an imaginary knife and cut its right side. That's exactly what I did, with a cutting wheel. This "opens" the bracket and can be connected to the exact bolt that the manual shows it should be connected to: The only difference is that the button will point towards the floor, which is not a big deal since it would be hidden/masked behind the trim anyway:
  8. DanJL

    Casper build

    I have also finished install of the Redarc Liberty Brake controller. It's installed behind the "door" that pops out under the steering wheel. On the back of that trim there is a relatively big plastic support where the Mopar brake controller would attach. The Redarc won't fit that support. On the JK I've velcro'ed in that spot, but now because of that plastic support there is no room. Luckly that support is kept in place by 5 plastic rivets. I've cut those rivets, sanded everything flat and regained the space: I didn't want to install the control knob instead of the cigaret lighter plug since I intend to use that for my offroad heated lunch box. So I've installed it in the upper right corner of the above mentioned "door" under the steering wheel: Make your job easier and get the correct Redrac/Jeep wire adaptor. The JL (at least mine) is a already wired for towing. The OEM plug is hidden up in the left corner in the driver's footwell. It might be covered by some textile tape, but it's there. I also used a round panel insert to hold the button. Not mandatory but made the install easier: the Redrac button has a tiny light pipe to illuminate the digits, and this insert has all the necessary holes.
  9. DanJL

    Casper build

    Installed the RSE slides. After hearing all the horror stories about removal of the body bolts, I got a cheap "magnetic heat" gun (I assume they mean induction?) of Amazon. Money well spent. I was able to remove all of them enough to insert the RSE brackets. Few observations/remarks: - this thing will heat the head of the bolt until it becomes red hot. I've first heated each bolt for 60 secs (press the button and slowly count to 60). I have used a short wrench so as not to apply too much torque. If the bolt wouldn't move, I've heated it for 20-30 more secs. Here's the little wrench: - On most of the bolts the washer was too close to the bolt head for the RSE bracket to be inserted. A small grinder solved the problem: Other observations: - Careful to order the 2024 version if you have a 2024 JL. When I've ordered mine, they had no 2024 version, now they do The front brackets are different. Ask me how I know :) - This is a one person job. The only time I needed help from another person was for the easiest task: sticking the adhesive bumper protector on the side of the Jeep. Everything is an easy one person + a floor jack job. I love this steps and most likely I'll add the armor for them (when on sale). My better half is happy with the more dignified ingress/egress it provides.
  10. DanJL

    Casper build

    Doing a under the frame inspection and noticed this attachment on the front passenger wheel area. It's new on 2024 models to keep the up the crash scores. I can see why Jeep put this plate: the diff for front axle is off-centered so in a front collision the passenger side can collapse. In a standard config this can have the wheel push in, but since I'll have side steps that should prevent this from happening. My Jeep, my risk. It looks like a huge hanging point offroad, so I've removed it, although I DO NOT advise anyone doing this:
  11. DanJL

    Casper build

    Just a placeholder for Casper's very modest build: - Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT - done, but not without issues. The hood clamp on the driver side came loose after installing it and bent the (kinda like a can opener) the area where the slot is. I had to hammer and kind of rebuild the slot, inserted the clamp again and cross my fingers it will hold. It does, but my trust in how this clamp is engineered was diminished. Note: there was no undue force applied to close the hood or anything catching. - Jeep All Weather Floor Mats - Improperly installed by the dealer. The carpet cutouts under the drain plug were not removed, so the driver and passenger ones were bulging a tad and their respective "locking" prongs were not aligned. Removed the carpet and the rubber plug (which goes inserted into the top of the mat itself) and all looks OK now. - Artec full armor, including the muffler. - AEV 3" DualSport RT Suspension - ordered. - Replace the KO2s with KM3 or Trail Grapplers... Or maybe not. - RSE Power Steps -> Writeup HERE - Redarc Liberty Brake controller -> Writeup HERE - Yaesu FTD400 HAM radio -> Writeup HERE and HERE - Midland MXT275 GMRS radio -> Writeup HERE and HERE - President Johny CB radio - ARB Compressor Twin -> Writeup HERE - Metalcloak JL Wrangler Tow Wiring Skid Plate - Lasfit Stealth Anti-Theft Automatic Hood Lock System - Writeup HERE - ARB 37Gal Fridge - Writeup HERE - AAL M.A.S.S. Storage Platform and their 6x4 Sliding Platform - Writeup HERE - AAL Adjustable Cargo Shelf. - AAL VersaTable. - Ravelco car immobilizer - installed. More to come.
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