DanJL

Looks sharp ... even though she's not a Jeep

Scott, can you take a picture of the dashboard that shows the Garmin mount that you want to replace? It would be perfect if you include a ruler (for scale) in the pic as well.

Sure Scott

BTW, the white stuff on some of the bolts is dielectric grease. Needless to say that Warn left those electrical bolts uncovered and at the mercy of elements...

I'm finally done fixing the PowerPlant. I found more issues: 1. The pressure switch has super sloppy connections for a devices that's made to use offroad. It uses spade type connections that were so loose that they would've fallen off on the next trip. See pictures below. I've tighten them as well as I could and secured them with a zip tie. 2. Upon powering the unit, sparks started to fly. The damn main battery post on the Warn contactor was so loose that it almost fallen off. Take a look at the nut and notice the burn marks: 3. The boot covering the main battery post was split - I had no replacement so I've "fixed" it with electrical tape. 4. Do I have to mention that none of the bolts securing the contactor, the electrical bus, and the cables were loose and had no damn split washers? This is ridiculous!!! Bottom Line: This winch/compressor could be a gem (the compressor in particular 12CFM@0PSI, 5CFM@90PSI - I don't think there's a better single unit on on the market), but the sloppiness of simple things, such as lack of split washers, lack of automotive level connectors for electrical connections, as well as the fact that the wires don't even have a protective sleeve (I've had to add that to few wires that had signs of friction - short-circuit in waiting), is stupid. I hope this thread helps other Warn PowerPlant owners be aware of (a) how to fix their units, and (b) how to easily fix Warn's stupid assembly decisions: split-washers and wire sleeves are your friend.

I only heard great things about the Toyo, but they are really heavy. 35x12.50x17: KM2 - 68lbs mtr - 64lbs toyo - 82.7lbs Nitto - 79.37

Goose, Everybody likes their own tires. Good luck choosing Perhaps the questions should be: "Any tires NOT to get"

Cool. I'll be ready. I'll have the 4x4 cable installed by then as well.

Nevermind. I'll finish today.

G, I'm still working replacing my radiator. Not sure if I'll be done today. Can you push this trip for either Sun or next weekend? I don't think I can make it tomorrow.

Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Trail-Grappler-Radial-Tire/dp/B013J946EY has them for $222 w/ free shipping.

I have the Nitto Trail Grappler and I'm happy w/ them. I have 25K on them and still going strong. Can't say that they're overly noisy either. Tirebuyer.com has them for $224.99 in your size. They have a $20 off coupon if you give them your email.

I'm not an expert on the use of loctite. I assume that Warn might have a reason for not using it - perhaps stainless steel bolts + cast iron body + loctite doesn't work well? or perhaps the white residue that I did find on some bolts is a mix of anti-seize and loctite? or maybe the sheer number of bolts they use (on piece is held by 10 bolts) is enough. I don't know. I probably just had a bad unit. Warn after-all has a sterling reputation, they sell them by the thousands, so they must know what they're doing. I didn't hear anyone else having problems with their PowerPlants. As I mentioned, the units are built very nice - I might just be overly fixated over the loctite.

I got the replacement, and here are my (deep) thoughts: - I was wrong about the seals: the unit (both of them) has nice seals. The ones that are inside (one on each side of the drum) are made of rubber but were covered in grease so i didn't notice them at first. - Some bolts on the new unit still have no loctite. - Some of the other bolts do have some white residue, but I think it's anti-seize, not a loctite. I'm adding loctite to all. - The bolt holding the piston gasket did have red loctite and was tighten tight. - The new unit has a new hose that's not coiled anymore. It seems like a very cheap imitation of the ARB. The connectors at the end of the hose had some teflon tape on them but were very loose. It looks like little kids assembled them. Oh wait ... The box holding the accessories has a big Made in China w/ Chinese and Taiwanese components.

I'll go. What time? Where?

To celebrate the Valentine's Day we're offering a site-wide 15% off all our store: ValentineORP Enjoy!

The difference between the 9.5 and the 12 is the gearing, based on their specs and diagram. The motor is the same. Another thing that I'd add is that going with the PowerPlant will also save: 1. Space in the Jeep - no cluttering of the engine bay or interior space. If one counts that it already include the reservoir, then the space savings are even more pronounced. 2. No issues dealing with a hot air compressor or the noise. 3. Fancy schmancy air compressor - pressure switch, temp protection, 5CFM @ 90PSI, ability to run air tools. 4. Weight - only one motor (the heaviest part of a compressor) powers both winch and air. The reservoir is aluminum btw. 5. Cost (K. is right, if deciding to go w/ a Warn winch) There are cons nonetheless: 1. High initial cost. 2. Some might not like the look 3. Will not fit all front bumpers 4. Might impede air-flow, depending on the bumper. 5. Comes with steel line. Synthetic is extra. 6. One point of failure, although that's only limited to the motor and one mechanical part. Based on my experience, now that I know what the broken part was, the winch was still 100% functional. The noise was coming from the piston debris. 7. Would require DYI mod to use it as an air locker compressor. Anyway, this is part of what makes Jeeping fun: so many options that everyone can customize and make their Jeep Unique K, I'm sure that your set-up will rock, whichever way you go.

Looks nice. I love the big lettering and that the 30PSI is in the middle.

Well, a bit ironic for me to say, but the Warn Powerplant is also rated at 5CFM at 90PSI and has a built in 1/2 gallon reservoir. From a cost perspective, if you were to add a Warn winch (9.5ti is built into the PP), it would be cheaper. Oh, you need to add the price of a Loctite bottle as well.

I'll find out in a few days and post out an update.

I'll just replace it with a new one. The cylinder is aluminum, w/o a sleeve, so I don't think it can be honed.

Did your insurance ask for the difference for Mopar branded glass?

I would love to make stuff for other Jeeps, not only the JK, but I don't have access to them take measurements.

Sure G. The main diagram from Warn's website is: The piston is #38. Here're some pics of the piston, the top of piston head, the top of the compression chamber, the compression sleeve, and lastly what's left of the valve: Note how the bolt hole got destroyed on the piston. Some pictures of the rest of the bolts, nice and clean w/ no trace of loctite.

Not exactly. I didn't bother to call them, but I will get them from Warn free via another source.