DanJL

Jason, thanks for leading this fun trip! Thank you all for a great company!

Here're some of my pictures: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1515127118497689.1073741835.100000012474934&type=1&l=670b9ddff3

Happy B'day!!!

Please add me too.

This looks like an awesome trip! Too bad I couldn't make it

I will come as well. Thanks.

After a dusty trip or two, it will blend in perfectly! I never used liquid electrical tape before - thanks for sharing.

I bet yours (K's) is more comfortable.

Looks nice!

Nice pics indeed.

I give up with Google - I've made all public and still not working ?!? Here's the "attachment" version:

George told me that he's selling them and ready to take the first $100 offer

Do you see it now?

George taking pictures of trail art:

After a full day off-roading I can say that indeed shifting in and out of 4x4Lo, the shifting is a bit more smooth. Not really buttery, but no longer a fight a wills between me and the lever. So if anyone experiences the same issue, you might want to do this upgrade as well. If your shifting is smooth (or acceptable to you), then don't.

I'm in!

Thanks for sharing!

See you at 9.

I'm done installing the cable. This was one mod that I didn't enjoy - way too much work for changing a cable: dismantling 1/4 of the interior, dropping off the front drive shaft, tinkering with adjusting the cable ... For anyone thinking of doing it for fear of ever getting stuck on the trail with a broken 4x4 cable: - Unless the cable breaks while the TC is in neutral, the Jeep is still drivable (stuck in 2L or 4L or 4H). In other words, is not something that would get you stuck in the middle of nowhere. - The lever for the TC is just above the front axle rear flange and it is reachable relatively easily (unless you have full armor) So I did it, but if I knew it's so much work I might've taken my chances and only done it if my factory cable (or rather the eyelet clips) would've broken.

I'm almost done putting together my Jeep. I'll go.

OK, the damn flange is out! I had to use heat for like 30secs. Nothing else got damaged. Thanks for the call G!

I ran into another issue: can't remove the nut that keeps the flange mounted to the T-case. I think I've used red loctite on it when installing my Adams' Shafts. Per Henkel, I need to heat the nut to 500F. Any advise on doing / not doing that? Will the oil in the t-case catch fire? Man, I thought that I need to eat more spinach, but even my INGERSOLL RAND W7150 (1100 ft-lb) wouldn't nudge it Any ideas??

George, since I have the skids out, how often do you change the transfer case oil? Mine is still the original (2014).

George, at least on yours the installation instructions will be (more) accurate, and the console should come out much easier since you don't have the electronics that the new JKs have. One error though in their documentations: the shifter assembly can't be removed without removing first the covering plate. It is secured by 4 screws, and the fourth one is not accessible until the cover plate is removed. Here's the plate in question: Tomorrow I'll drop the skid plates and the front drive shaft. I don't get why don't they reuse the factory lever by the drive shaft - based on their video it looks made of metal and quite solid - that wouldn't force disconnecting the front drive shaft.

My Jeep has a bit of a trouble getting in 4x4 Low, so at G.'s advice, I've purchased a while back the ADVANCED ADAPT 4WD SHIFT CABLE JK 715596. I'm in the process of installing it, but I'm not going to journal all the steps, since one can find the instructions that come with the kit right here: http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/715596.pdf However, I will detail things that I've experienced and are not documented. 1. The shifter knobs need to be removed. They are so tight that I had to run to Home Depot and buy a 10' 2x4 to use as leverage. See the pic below: I 've made a noose around the knob and used the 2x4 to pull it, but it was still not coming out. I had to use a ladder to get a better angle and finally they've popped. 2. The instructions are not updated for the newer JK, but overall still accurate. One thing to note is that removing the console is much more complicated than illustrated by AA: seems that they've used a stripped down model that had no electrical connections (console USB/Illumination/120V/cig lighter) or 2nd row power windows. All those cables have connections that are hidden and required blind removal. More to come.