DanJL

Looks cool! BTW, I'll have the brackets w/ me on Thur.

I'm sorry, but I have to skip this trip. See you on the next one.

Happy Birthday!!!

Please sign me up. Tx.

Cool. I've ordered it.

... and here's the flux welding wire I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E2RF0E

George, is this the transfer case linkage upgrade kit you've recommended? http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_8002_07.htm

... and here is what cinnabar looks like: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinnabar#/media/File:Cinnabar09.jpg

Made it home as well. Thanks for a fun trip! Here's the link for the TV Antenna selector: https://www.antennaweb.org/Address

Please add me too. Tx.

So sorry to hear that Moose is gone... My condolences.

Kris, your attention to details bar none. I'm nowhere as meticulous as you are. It's a long story, my wallet was itching, but I'm not using the TrailDash to control the switches anymore. For one thing, I could only control 2 switches, and I wanted more. I used the Daystar KJ71034BK Lower Switch Panel along with 5 Contura switches that have the lower LED independent. I assume you have them wired simillarly: the lower LEDs (green for me) is lit when the interior OEM switches are (and I used the potentiometer, I think was a 10K to fine tune the brightness), and the upper LEDs (white in my case) are lit when the switch is in the ON position. I'm not good (nowhere as good as you are - you're heads above most technical writers!) taking pictures detailing what I've done. I'll pop up the hood at Cinders soon tough However, if anyone has any questions, I'll be glad to help/answer.

Makes sense Kris. I've connected mine similarly (tied into the A/C illumination wire tough). I've used this for inspiration, but had to heavily modify it (correct it?) since it wasn't working for my dual LED (like yours) illumination. Instead of the resistors I've used a potentiometer to fine tune the intensity. I also had to replace all the damn LEDs in the Contura to (almost, but still a tad off) match the green hue of the OEM switches. Did you find a LED source for a perfect color match? I've used Ebay: this listing. For the ON position I've used "white" and for the OFF the "dark green". Looking back, for me, it would've been much more cost and time effective to just buy a SPOD or Painless TrailRocker. I thought that I would save money building my own relay box, but in the end I'm not so sure.

As always, really nice work Kris! Re: switch illumination, any reason not to connect to the factory wires? That way the switches would dim and be turned on in unison.

This is really cool Diane! Thanks for sharing.

Kris, for your Bussmann main power, do you intend to use a circuit breaker in addition to the fuse? If not, what made you decide to use the fuse instead of the circuit breaker (such as the Bussmann CB285-80)?

Something came up. We might not be able to make it. If we're not there at 10:30, please don't wait for us.

Please add us as well.

Pls add us to the list.

We all enjoyed the trip. Thanks D&G!

With the amazing SpaceX's FalconX landing on a barge in the middle of the ocean today, I remembered that the ISS has a HAM radio on board. If anyone wants to listen to it, is on 145.80MHz downlink/144.49MHz uplink . More info here: http://www.ariss.org/contact-the-iss.html

Yep, for some reason (blind spot?) most damage is always on the mid section passenger side. My OEM fuel tank skid looks as bad as yours. I still have it under the aftermarket one. I'm dual armor on that side.

Some new marks as well: Rear Driveshaft: Gas Tank Armor:

Congrats, and hope you never get the need to use it! The bracket is quite sturdy indeed, it survived all the trail bumps nicely.

I'm in! Thanks!