scottL 179 Posted April 2, 2010 thanks kris; appreciate the + feedback! you never know what people are going to think after making a "decision" like i have but i am very happy with it. the mobile fabber guy is one of my best friends. he has a 5 acre shop downtown where they house their steel production and heavy equipment. typically he's involved with fence/ramada/stair case installation but told me the jeep stuff is more interesting to him. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 86 Posted April 3, 2010 Wow can't wait to see it! George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 179 Posted April 16, 2010 final fitting and prep; apologies for the hazy pictures. it's tough to focus after cutting so much metal and brewskies. off to powder coat today; hopefully installation this weekend/early next week. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 86 Posted April 17, 2010 Looks sweet, I don't see a slide in hitch for a recovery point. George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 179 Posted April 17, 2010 Looks sweet, I don't see a slide in hitch for a recovery point. George:cool: thanks George! we decided on 3/16" mounting plates and grade 8 hardware (x20) to secure the bumper to the unitbody frame rails. 3/4" steel was utilized to mount the d-rings. plan is to weld another brace & bracket to the bumper on the gas tank side in order to make the bumper removable without cutting it. once that's complete there will be 2 tubes connecting to plates on each side "rail" as well as 3 mounting plates out back. i couldn't be happier with the way it turned out looks-wise and it feels rock solid. i hope it will be sturdy enough in a recovery type situation; can't wait to find out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 86 Posted April 18, 2010 Nice!!! George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 179 Posted June 10, 2010 purchased a dana 30 axle truss because the cherokee has 33 by 12.50 tires and the front is locked. didn't care for the "rusty's" laser cut in so i asked my friend to copy it exactly then weld his on instead. notice the gaps on either side of the bottom where the truss connects to the top of the axle housing? i wonder if i should fill those in or not? my friend said he didn't mind filling it but thought too much welding might warp the axle tube and that it seemed stable enough as is. driving home, the steering wheel felt noticeably more stable on the bridge over the salt river where concrete meets asphalt. could be just because the crack's not as big going northbound? not sure but if anyone would like a rusty's dana 30 axle truss of there own; i got one for sale cheap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 3,849 Posted June 11, 2010 i think you are fine without welding any more, you deff don't wanna warp the thing. most other companies trusses are similiiar in that they join every-so-often and not continuously... example, here's tntcustoms dana 30 truss: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 86 Posted June 11, 2010 Scott, I want to scope out the Rustys. Bring it with you next time. George:cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 179 Posted June 11, 2010 i checked out the tnt customs truss before making a decision. theirs is definitely beefier and more complex($$) including new spring perches and control arm mounts but i never thought to look at how it welded on. thanks Kris! Johnny Boy.. it's got Number 7 written all over it sir. actually, it's got Rustys all over it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
