03 Grand Cherokee 4.7L HO Engine Replacement

[theksmith 5,778]

man that's dirty PS fluid:

 

[theksmith 5,778]

FUEL SYSTEM

 

one thing to remember before you start taking crap apart is to de-pressurize the fuel system.

 

you start the jeep, then pull the fuel-pump relay and it'll die within a few seconds. that uses up the majority of the fuel in the lines.

 

then the FSM says to jumper the terminals from one of the injectors for a SECOND to relieve the last bit of pressure. it says not to use this method to relieve the entire pressure, and DO NOT JUMPER IT MORE THAN A SECOND as you can burn up the injector.

 

 

A/C SYSTEM

 

another key thing is the A/C system. a friend told me if at all possible to hook it back together immediately after you take it apart and get other parts out of the way. this is to prevent air and therefore moisture from getting into the system which hurts the seals and stuff i guess. i just knew you want to be very careful to not get any dirt or anything into the system.

 

it wasn't very feasable with the amount of hard-line on this system to re-hook it back up and still keep it out of the way, so i'm using clean little rags stuffed into each line end and compressor port to try and keep it clean and fortunately we don't have a really humid climate here in AZ.

 

i'll probably go ahead and get new a/c o-rings for all the connections that i removed before i reassemble. make sure you get the right o-rings for your system, they aren't regular rubber, and even different system use different materials - i think most modern systems use nitrile, but not sure, Autozone/Napa will know

[theksmith 5,778]

about 5 hours of very leisurely work got me this far...

 

 

 

 

certainly could have worked faster, but wasn't running a race. took time to take lots of pics from various angles, write down the order of what was removed, baggie & label each set of bolts, and clean electrical connectors and mating surfaces, etc.

 

no big problems yet. hoses on barbed/ribbed connectors are some of the most time consuming things. and had one nut on a power steering line frozen to the line and had to wait for PB Blaster to do it's thing. thus far everything pretty much as been done with philips & standard screw drivers, a couple hex nut-drivers, some pliers, and sockets and open-end wrenches in 10, 12, 13, 15, 18 millimeter sizes. i think i needed a 20mm for something too.

 

prolly another 4-5 hours tomorrow and should have it stripped down to longblock status.

[Maddogjeeper 2]

HOLY CRAP!!! That's a lot of stuff to remove.

[Sc00by 8]

 

A/C SYSTEM

 

another key thing is the A/C system. a friend told me if at all possible to hook it back together immediately after you take it apart and get other parts out of the way. this is to prevent air and therefore moisture from getting into the system which hurts the seals and stuff i guess. i just knew you want to be very careful to not get any dirt or anything into the system.

 

it wasn't very feasable with the amount of hard-line on this system to re-hook it back up and still keep it out of the way, so i'm using clean little rags stuffed into each line end and compressor port to try and keep it clean and fortunately we don't have a really humid climate here in AZ.

 

i'll probably go ahead and get new a/c o-rings for all the connections that i removed before i reassemble. make sure you get the right o-rings for your system, they aren't regular rubber, and even different system use different materials - i think most modern systems use nitrile, but not sure, Autozone/Napa will know

 

 

Good idea to re-connect the A/C stuff dirt & moisture + freon = nasty mess.

Hit me up when your ready to re-charge the A/C I have dry Nitrogen & a vacuum pump (pressure test with the N2 & blow out any foreign stuff that maybe in the system, then vacuum the system to make sure its totally clean & charge)

[theksmith 5,778]

here's the special chrysler/mitsubishi damper (harmonic balancer) puller that you need for this engine (the black claw - not the kit in red):

 

 

it's really just a hardened 3-jaw puller. it comes with 2 length dowels that you use between it and the crankshaft end, neither was long enough for mine. i used a long bolt (silver thing in the middle) from a standard puller set (red kit in upper part of picture), and that worked for me.

[theksmith 5,778]

to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail, see figure 39 & 40 in the attached PDF....

 

jeep-chrysler_fuel_quick_connect.pdf

 

for the "special tool" i used the smallest one of the openings on this harbor freight fuel & A/C disconnect set (far left-top):

 

 

those other sets you see that are multi-colored pastic discs would work too.

[theksmith 5,778]

biggest PITA so far has been the connectors on the injectors, most of the release tabs broke when i tried to disconnect them. i'm assuming mine is so extra brittle from getting my engine so hot.... or maybe everyone's is like that from standard engine heat even.

 

anyway, had to use a little pick tool to pry the connectors snaps loose from the bottom on many of them instead of being able to squeeze with thumb. they also have slide-lock on them, all of those broke.

 

all of the wiring harness running near the heads is stiff as a board and the split loom and tape around it is very brittle.

[stockjeep 43]

dang, Kris looks like a lot of work ahead. whens the motor set to arrive? you got a back up jeep for Hole in the rock?

[dzJeepChic 2,897]

dang, Kris looks like a lot of work ahead. whens the motor set to arrive? you got a back up jeep for Hole in the rock?

 

Worst case scenario, we're going to set him on Clifford's roof rack like Aunt Edna in the movie 'Vacation'.