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dzJeepChic

ScottLs 2001 XJ

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in this one case, chrome might get you home ;)

 

hey you mentioned on my thread that you added a grade 8 shock bolt... that grade 5 bolt you had in there shearing off might have actually saved your spenesive shock since you aren't bump-stopped correctly - just a thought.

When loaded down w/ Gary, ms. Shelley, our camping gear, tools & spare parts, my jeep sits low out back. Having shock relocation brackets compounds the issue

attachment.php?attachmentid=3619&stc=1&d=1522264656

 

I posted twice to this thread regarding Daystar's extended bumpstops & received no feedback. Might be time to measure up & try them out. Also probably will add-a-leaf from my spare stash if needed.

IMG_4400.thumb.jpg.85d654da0c1f5a76ad03993652bcab8a.jpg

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Looks sweet! Mine is a ticking time bomb. Occasionally on cold starts it will squeal for a few seconds, but the most notable problem is when it’s engaged I can feel the strain it places on the serpentine belt from inside the cab.

 

Where did you find the Mopar unit? I’ve seen remmaned units online, but I’m not too keen on that and would prefer a Mopar replacement

Sounds exactly like my issues prior to swapping.

If I hadn't lost video posting capabilities I could show before & after cold start video's.. Night and day difference!

 

Got mine at My Mopar Parts but it is a reman unit. All Mopar units for sale on the internet are. Their serial numbers begin with the letter "R" & in my experience you will not be able to find a brand new one online anywhere. If you do find one, let me know!

 

Click on "a/c compressor" in my post above & it will take you to the website where I purchased mine. You can verify fit if you know the last 8 digits of your VIN number.

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When loaded down w/ Gary, ms. Shelley, our camping gear, tools & spare parts, my jeep sits low out back. Having shock relocation brackets compounds the issue

attachment.php?attachmentid=3619&stc=1&d=1522264656

 

I posted twice to this thread regarding Daystar's extended bumpstops & received no feedback. Might be time to measure up & try them out. Also probably will add-a-leaf from my spare stash if needed.

 

I too have been trying to figure out exactly how the XJ's rear bumpstop actually works. I was running no bumpstops for a while but wasn't doing any heavy wheeling. About 1 month ago I ordered the Daystar rear poly extended stops. I have not got down to doing a proper test and taking measurements, but from eyeballing it I can't exactly see where it should contact. I think the idea is that when the axle articulates (not straight up down movement), the axle perch plate (where U bolts are fastened to) is supposed to tuck into the unibody and contact the bump stop. The XJ is at home at the moment so I can't take pictures, but I definitely will try do a write up. I think to effectively bumpstop one will have to install a modified perch plate, like this DBO one which has an extra bumpstop mount. I still think a set of Fox Air bumpstops is your best option, at a price of course!

 

Sounds exactly like my issues prior to swapping.

If I hadn't lost video posting capabilities I could show before & after cold start video's.. Night and day difference!

 

Got mine at My Mopar Parts but it is a reman unit. All Mopar units for sale on the internet are. Their serial numbers begin with the letter "R" & in my experience you will not be able to find a brand new one online anywhere. If you do find one, let me know!

 

Click on "a/c compressor" in my post above & it will take you to the website where I purchased mine. You can verify fit if you know the last 8 digits of your VIN number.

 

Thanks! Will check it out. I will try post a video of the XJ idling, and then how it sounds with the AC engaged

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Perch plates? Interesting

525583_3325101799842_1876345893_n.jpg

Thanks for also posting the Fox link here Adriaan, might need to reference it later!

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i made a you a graphic of your rig and where to measure. ;)

 

K4VPerIh_osZw-DXyW0uJmTp_SGiOgFS_1_HSJz8gfv4ncUuQ2nMOAxSzFgNE21yQKfeGSViTeAszvJYf-gOREihK3GS9qZCgqNr9L7lvbDoNxaWdlA4quGTKUlSqPAYh8fjsa0SEe15NsDB2aSZrzwZD4kY7IVHAMjgusyyqVmWHm4GAj2t2Gfzwm_p-PsddTIPIRWG41bcHtjUwel5sVCfMniCFhGYNDyGiZPVOAEWnDdq3n_GLA60SMWRm0QG7_9RqgvEOqjJzB8pf5GhrwPgzLYT_L1KS5htG4CmKf4N0rqj6Thqh6WrBIS5OYUqs-zP3Io_eDZZS6osNALXTEZw2pvAISD21oeFtbLH4gxBF028eZdlU0QC2SiUfkpbGSr9N3Ya5_eodKKwHi7YVDHO_mPJGylh77_NUBFpjaiySgEtZagGvgA60_-KWI_v1Qv070Y1ukB1AzMtujmrjIcsudgF4Mc5ZqYYgE9KAfC8P1GWc9234YUrZsLsYB65yd8-DzTf8vjbSp1F1WAWGzF_glLw_eMjb99xpwuvjvjVvxf28J0uf5myh1UcJr04nD3Ed2xrGS-oP6iko23V3rbueWgUneZwBAwwOfwy_fiJdSv5ZQkbpBldSJjeEbahcTR-vFc0kfR2z1OlteMuEeS8yxeyMZez=s2048

 

measure just sitting on the ground at normal ride-height...

 

distance A is your potential up-travel if you hit a hard bump. and yes, the factory bump stop can compress nearly 100%, so you measure from the TOP of it.

 

distance B is how much up-travel your shock is allowing. note you're measuring straight vertically here, so you'll have to eyeball a little bit and thus it's just approximate. alternatively if you have an angle finder, you could measure the angle of the shock and the length of the exposed shaft and we can do maths to get an exact figure.

 

this is just basic straight up-travel. like when you nail a speedbump, whoop, or jump it - but that's your primary concern. when articulating things are a little different - but that's usually at low speeds with hardly any axle momentum, so it's not as big of a problem if your shocks are your limiter in that scenario.

 

don't buy poly extended bump-stops! they are only slightly better than using a bag of rocks - they hit hard and crumble apart fairly quickly.

 

the factory style foam bumps work progressively and they are what you want unless you can afford air or hydraulic racing bump-stops. you'll just need to add either steel spacers that lower those factory bumps, or wider perch plates like was just posted.

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Wow.. K! Thanks man, you

greywacke1.jpg

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I could hear a loud grinding noise on start up. Same sound as trying to start a vehicle when it's already running, only mine wasn't, and it was grinding on every start.

attachment.php?attachmentid=3748&stc=1&d=1532012721

No visual damage or uneven wear on the flywheel

attachment.php?attachmentid=3754&stc=1&d=1532014448

attachment.php?attachmentid=3755&stc=1&d=1532014448

I noticed the wire housing which connects the solenoid to the starter motor was cracked and brittle

attachment.php?attachmentid=3749&stc=1&d=1532012721

Wire was black

attachment.php?attachmentid=3750&stc=1&d=1532012721

attachment.php?attachmentid=3752&stc=1&d=1532015786

Inspection plate was covered in grease and dirt muck so I cleaned it with degreaser, a wire brush then painted it to match my brown dog motor mounts

attachment.php?attachmentid=3751&stc=1&d=1532012721

All complete and back in good working order

attachment.php?attachmentid=3753&stc=1&d=1532012721

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IMG_5462.jpg.8e0be07d694c4da6e258d91fd72b7878.jpg

IMG_5467.thumb.jpg.624670e41b45951439c7e82b9245be89.jpg

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IMG_5385.jpg.5f920d0bcb747ba9d0226fb272385f89.jpg

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shiny stuff Scott!

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Great shot and I can see Gary's ear too. Thanks for posting!

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