Phildo 2 Posted September 10, 2009 Thats pretty funny, sorry George! I would have probably thrown a flippin hammer through my wall. I am glad you got it open with out having to tear the whole front end apart though. P.s. I was kinda wonderin how that mod was going to turn out when you showed me. It looks pretty good! I hope it helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theksmith 5,778 Posted September 10, 2009 i like the look of the vents... just another thought, have you already checked the operation of the viscous clutch to make sure the fan is really spinning at full potential? the only way i know to check it is this: "When the engine is hot, turn it off and then try to spin the fan by hand. On a hot engine, the viscous clutch should be pretty solid and the fan will stop moving as soon as you let it go. If it spins freely, replace it." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ob1jeeper 849 Posted September 10, 2009 Operation Run Cool continues in the Zalman Garage. Also got a tip from SteveO on the VJC regarding the Fan Clutch. Rather than buying a heavy-duty fan-clutch, remove the fan and then with needle-nose pliers, remove the end of the spring from it's keeper, and rotate counter-clockwise 180 to 360 degrees, and then clip it back on. Viola! Heavy-Ass-Duty Fan-Clutch. Lots more grab so far, re-installing tomorrow and will report. e better be a cooler chic damn soon! d FWIW: the only thing the re-positioning of the spring did was close off the viscous fluid valve internal to the "clutch", so that it is essentuially locked up even @ low ambient and coolant temps, as opposed to closing and engaging the fan only at elevated temps. This is because the bi-metal "temperature control" spring moves the valve as the temp changes, just like the bi-metal springs in your home's HVAC control system does... You could have accomplished the same result by simply replacing the viscous coupling with a solid drive for the fan, and saved the costs & weight of the viscous coupling fan drive... Here's a short synopsis of how it's supposed to work... The temp controlled fan clutch (a.k.a. "temp-a-trol") is designed to NOT function during cooler temps to save the lost energy of spinning that large fan (think less wasted energy or better fuel economy...) Then when the temp of the air coming across the radiator is sufficient to cause the bi-metal spring to unwind, and begin to close the vlave, the viscous (silicone) fluid valve begins to close and the fan begins to pick up speed, until the temp is warm enough to fully close the valve, and "lock" the fan to the same RPM's as the W-Pump. Once the air cools back down, the bi-metal spring cools and begins to open the valve and thus when not necessary to use it, the energy is no longer being used to drive the fan... HTH... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smwold 0 Posted September 10, 2009 1 to many beers I bet. Can you say OOPS? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dzJeepChic 2,897 Posted November 5, 2009 Here's an update on -e!'s progress. Who wants to see my new rack? George got it in exchange for one of his CB Mounts for a TJ, fabbed it to fit the factory rails, painted it black, and viola! Next he worked on developing a CB Mount for -e! It came out sweet! He found a bracket on the donor vehicle that fit under the dome light and used it to attach the rear. The front mount is hidden by the factory cover for the remote lock sensor, which we didn't receive with the vehicle, so he gutted it out. Then he fabbed an antenna mount for the rear hatch: Custom Hatch Trim Job: He had to do some major grinding on the mount and cut a section of the cable connector off to make it fit: Finished product: We tested the CB yesterday and it worked great! He went all the way down to the nearest intersection in -e!, and I could still hear him from Number 7 inside the garage! Can't wait for the next trail ride! d Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottL 185 Posted November 5, 2009 looking good! hope to see another cherokee on the trail real soon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GRUNT 111 Posted November 12, 2009 Pics of the lift? I know I sent it to a good home but still want some pics! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Number7 89 Posted November 13, 2009 Lift is almost done. George:cool: Please stand by:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dzJeepChic 2,897 Posted November 14, 2009 We picked up Grunt's 3" Pro-Comp lift kit parts for -e!. The first thing George did was take apart the leaf packs. One bushing was off-center, so he took the original leaf packs off of –e!, and just used Grunt’s add-a-leafs. The factory leaf packs have nylon sliders on the ends, so George added those to the add-a-leafs too, to reduce the friction. He also eliminated the very bottom short leaf. The install was easy, he used the factory u-bolts and shackles. George already knew that the track bar would be too short when he jacked up the front-end to install the new springs. He pulled it, cut the ball joint off the end, cut and bent it up in the middle for proper alignment with the drag link, and then installed an adjustable heim joint in place of the original ball joint. This should eliminate bump-steer. Cut and bend: Reinforcement: Drilled out the ball-joint hole to 5/8” with my new $23 drill bit, a bit pricy, but it cut like buttah: Finished product with springs installed: We used the complete set of factory shocks Goose gave us off his JK. The fronts were too short, so here’s George’s shock-extension idea he’s trying. He had to remove the sleeves and install bar-pins in the front; discovered a super easy way to do that. He heated the metal part not allowing the flame to touch the rubber, and it slid right out. Then he heated the bar-pins, and they slid right in. He cooled it with water, and when they cooled they glued in tight. Next, he relocated the brake lines: Continued V V V Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dzJeepChic 2,897 Posted November 14, 2009 He removed the factory spring isolators and put in 1” Rocky Mountain isolators that thekdude gave us. Here’s the front shock extension; he bumped it up with Body Mount pucks he had laying around: Top of the shock: Here she is. She actually only gained 2” in the back and 1.5” in front since we removed the bump kit we’d installed: Today: alignment, straighten steering wheel and check bolts. Still waiting for our lower control arms; they’re getting ballistic joints installed. Almost ready to roll. Thanks Everybody for the Free and Smoking Deal Stuff! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
